jamiehamy

If you can get pics, will give us an idea how bad it might be. I've fixed things that looked awful, but actually were not. The main thing to find out is if the chassis legs are bent. If they are, it's going to be tricky tho. If not, it's all like a big mecano set. Where are you in Scotland? I'll be bored between Xmas and New Year anyway, so could lend a hand if not too far :)

I've been all over and in some pretty deep stuff and not yet gotten stuck. I've probably just cursed myself. Car is a dream - just trundles up hills in 3rd with no throttle if required, the ABS/Diff thing pinging alway sometimes. Wouldn't want anything else :)

This link is good. It must be said, it's so much easier with the front end apart, but you can get it from below - ramps of some sort are a must. I applied gasket seal when i found mine leaking - never leaked since. I didn't have time to wait on VAG to deliver them as I was going away.

What it's worth and what it'll sell for are completely different values these days. Def agree it's 5k territory BUT nothing is going for what it's worth these days. Hopefully you are keeping it and no doubt if you keep it garaged it'll be worth the same 5k in 5 years :) Lucky you btw! I wish it was me!

Really fancy these for the wish list, but curious as to what they would look like on the Corrado. I had OZ Saturn's before, but can't get them for love nor money. Anyone got a pic of a Rado on 6 spoke Compomotives?

More snow adventures :)

Land Rover 90 V8 Audi RS6 Honda NSX

Hi all, I've had a search but can't really find anything about this. Since fitting an uprated headlamp loom, I've had to replace the passenger side dipped bulb 3 times. The main filament doesn't blow, only the dipped. One of them was a cheap bulb from a spare bulb kit i had, and the bulb glass was actually melted! The one just gone was an expensive Phillips number. I'm at a loss as to why this is happening, it's about one every three weeks. The relays and the fuses are in good condition, so looks like some sort of voltage/current surge maybe. Has anyone else experienced this or have any suggestions as to where to start? PS - I drive with lights on all the time in winter, so that might speed things up, but 3 in two months seems silly! Thanks, J

Nothing here, but something I get delivered weekly that should have arrived Tuesday is still not here either, so assuming there's a big backlog somewhere.

Okay, so thought i would start one of these for my car, for my records amuch as amything else! I keep forgetting what i've done. She's a 1993 VR6 in Flash Red. I bought her off a chap in Lockerbie after I sold him my G60 and then fell in love with his VR6. A couple of years later I managed to buy it from him. She used to be lowered but I got really sick of crashing about on Scottish roads so is now back to standard. Comfort is good and the handling is acceptable, but i don't like the look. Hopefully will get H&R springs one day. Current Spec: Standard Springs with Koni T/A's OZ Ultraleggera 16" with Toyo tyres TT 312 Brake conversion on the front MOCAL Oil cooler TT rearmost wishbone bushes Scorpion Stainless exhaust from cat back. LPG with 43litre tank. Upgraded headlamp loom with Phillips bulbs. Red dashboard filters and electric window LED's Recent work completed: Fitted centre console(handbrake) support bracket. Fitted door handle repair kit to drivers side after the latch snapped. Fitted new Blue water temperature sensor. New spark plugs for fitting of LPG. Rear discs and pads about 5k miles ago along with bearings. Fitted new handbrake cables about 10k ago. Cleaned heater blower motor and fitted a new thermal fuse - now working on all 4 speeds. New pulley tensioner bearing/roller fitted. New clutch master and slave cylinders Sept 2010. Chains and tensioners replaced Dec 2009. Hydraulic lifters replaced October 2010. I use her everyday and currently doing an easy 20k mile per year. Mileage currently sitting at 168900.

I fitted a manual override to my VR6 before i went touring France this year. My view is it's better to keep cool rather than try and cool when really hot. It was really easy to do, not sure how the 1.8 works, but I bridged one of the temperature sensors in the VR thermostat housing ( the black one). It was a low voltage current and I ran the switch to the dash. The easy way to test is work out which sensors the 1.8 uses to determine the fan switch then with the ignition on, pull the plug off and short the plug. If the fan switches on, cut and solder a new wire onto each side and run it to a switch on the dash. That doesn't actually help you work out what one to bridge, but once you have, it just verifies. There is a thread already in Engine bay for cooling, worth a check :)

I was getting tyres fitted at VW last weekend and had a sit in the Scirocco for the first time. I tried to be objective and work out if i would prefer it to the Corrado. I found it dark and bland, and as you say, borderline claustrophobic. When i got back in the Rado my mind was made up. The Corrado is a far more pleasant environment to live in!

Defo not WD40 G 052 778 A2.jpg[/attachment:4xa4bpv2] G052 778 A2 Lock Lube. Note the the cap labelling "with de-icing effect". Comes with a spray tube as seen and also a lock "slot" adaptor to spray into the key slot. Its a PTFE based product which lubricates and repels water. It's tacky to the surface it's applied to. Used it for years on MK2 Sciroccos. . Got this today and it works a treat. Locks feel sooo slick now, and don't freeze in the cold. I've tried white grease,WD40 etc... before, but this seems to work much better. :)

You'll have to break something...probably the grill. I had the same problem, but fortunately my grill is not screwed in at the top as it fits snug and the tabs were broken off. I removed the grill and basically had to squeeze my hand through the sides of the radiator to get at the catches. If i remember rightly, if you can get a purchase on one of them, the other will unlock too - I'm sure the drivers side one is easier to get to as well as being the one that will unlock the other side if you get to it. Once you feel the catch (the bit where the cable runs through is fine), it should be pushed towards the drivers side. Will take a bit of force. Will be a lot easier if someone is gently pressing down on the bonnet and joogling it. As i say, the worst part is getting the grill off. A hacksaw blade to the bottom part will take the tabs off and they can be superglued back at a later date. Hacksaw at the top should work too, not sure about the angles tho. Good luck!

I just ordered a tin from VW, £6.42 plus VAT was the quote. Forgot to ask for a discount tho, will check when i pay. :)

Second that, I get a lighter, hold it against the key metal until it's hot (taking care not to melt the plastic!) and then put it in the lock. If it's really bad, it takes a couple of attempts, but always gets there.

That's genius!

Don't buy into the corporate conspiracy - they WANT you to buy a new cable rather than fix it. It takes 10mins a side and saves you £30. It's like the heater motor only working on 4. New motor or a bit of time and effort and £0.84 to fit a new thermal fuse? Maybe it's my Scottish blood....

I had this issue last winter, the moisture gets inside the runner and freezes the end of the cable. It doesn't def mean the cable is goosed but he rubber boot may be perished and letting the moisture in. As mentioned above, detaching the end of the cable from the caliper, clean up the cable and coat liberally with copper ease or grease. If there's enough under the boot and it's not perished that should stop further problems. The cables are not available from VAG anymore according to my dealer. i couldn't believe it, but defo not. :-( total pain in the neck when it happens.

Had a trip out yesterday, was lovely up here.

In front of the rear drivers wheel. I'd soak the bolts/screws in SuperCrack or something overnight because they'll probably be a pain to get off. Once off, it's easy. Also an idea to take a spark plug out and have a check what it's like ( even after replacing). Sparkplugs.co.uk do a good guide as to what the condition means. Sounds like under fuelling, which wil affect both fuels, cause stalls and lack of acceleration. Is the LPG multipoint injection, or single point?

Hmmm...usually it's the other way round with LPG being the highlighter of issues. If it's multi point,the LPG takes the map from petrol, and if your petrol setup is not right, LPG will never properly either. Two things i would suggest next: Replace fuel filter and give a good top up with fuel and Redex followed with a good long run. If you've got a blocked filter then this will hopefully clear it and give the ECU a chance to get back to normal. Find someone with VAGCOM and see if there are errors - very likely. MAF/Lambda/cam sensor could be duff ) for starters. If it's affecting both fuels, it would appear to be a sensor that's gubbed. When did the problems start? After the run, during, or gradually happened?

Oh, feel I should also add this will not help anyone break into a Corrado. It's all dependent on the car being unlocked! Just in case any tea leafs scan forums for break-in tips!

This might work,it did for me once. Open the other door and have a look at the lock mechanism. There is a plastic cover. Prise that off. Now you should see a lug on the lock mechanism (facing the B-pillar). If you pull the handle, you should see it move up and down. Simulate shutting the door by using a screwdriver to set the catches. Now press the lug upwards and check it unlocks the catches - it should. If so, you need to simulate that on the broken door. The problem is there is the plastic cover, which you can't remove. You need to carefully cut it away. I found that a bit of skill with a slim and very sharp chisel down the gap worked (the plastic cover will be ruined, but i'm sure you will be able to source one easily) Be VERY careful of the paint work and don't rush it. Wrap a fine cloth round the chisel blade between the door gap. Once you've got most of the plastic away, use a screwdriver to flick the lug up. If you're lucky and it's not all too goosed, it'll open. Failing that...I'm not sure :( I think it will be okay tho as it doesn't seem like it's the internal mechanism, but the lever. I hope this helps.