jamiehamy

This is magic, thank you! It's helped make the whole wiring thing a million times clearer. It's gonna be fun! Just about to peruse the v2 jsut now. I'm already a monthly donator, but I'll make an extra one off too :) I defo agree it's the best forum out there and worth making a financial contribution to :)

Hey, I've had a good few reads of this and my main concerns are around the wiring and what's involved. IF I have a MK4 R32 loom, it sounds like this should plug into the back of my fuse box under the dash? I'm not sure where i should start and what (colour) plugs should be disconnected from the Corrado fuse box. Also, I take it the Mk4 loom will have a feed to the throttle pedal that will just hook up with my new pedal? If it's Mk5, how would I go about getting the wiring to match? If it's difficult to extract the Mk5 loom from the car and I get a chopped one, where would I start? I can solder pretty well and read a wiring diagram - it it jsut a case of (almost) colour matching (using a diagram obv to confirm)? If i sent it to somewhere like SWICT, what would I have to send them exactly (from the Rado and MK5)? How do all the gauges on the dash work, is this catered by plugging in the Mk4 loom directly/Mk5 spliced one? I'm pretty confident about the physical side of things, but the wiring is the one that's baffling me. I've read a lot about it elsewhere too, but it's never too specific (usually 'plug into fuse box' and I'm like 'uh huh - what and where?!). lol Final point about wiring - the whole flashing thing, what actually is this? I had an aftermarket immob with a key fob, would this cause problems? If you had anymore detail about wiring, even if it's just about what SWICT did, what you gave them, and what you had to do when you got it back that would be superb. Thank you :)

Any chance of a part number?.........and where abouts it goes on the engine? :D Not got the part number to hand I'm afraid, but it's fairly easy to replace. It's on the front of the engine as part of the thermostat housing. At the front right of the inlet manifold, go down and you should see a black cover. They are underneath that, a blue, yellow and black one. The cover slides off ( can't remember if it's sideways or upwards). Take off the wiring connectors (squeeze the metal clips at the side) There is a clip holding the sensor in - a small screwdriver will prise it up and off. Then you just pull at the sensor and it'll come off. Make sure the rubber seal comes out too or you'll have issues fitting the new one. The coolant will pour out sadly unless you have something handy to stop it like a thick rag. Press the new one in, slide the retaining clip down and reconnect the wiring. Shouldn't take long at all :) Bit tight space wise so might need to detached the radiator and push it forward slightly. I fitted a VAG part as i've heard a lot of bad stories about Euro ones.

Hmmm.. I had the same issues you've described Jim, fixing itself at running temperature (well, 65degrees oil). I replaced the blue temp sensor and it 'seemed' fixed, but reappeared once just after I tweaked the gas map. Never had it since though. Def the same symptoms with spluttering, coughing and sometimes popping, but not on full throttle (which led my thoughts to the lambda loop kicking in too early, hence blue temp sensor. A new one was about £15 from VW. Just a thought...

Ditto :)

I'll just need to be patient, very hard for me as once i've made up my mind I like to get stuck right in! I'll have to wait even longer for a full 'kit' as I don't want to have to scrounge about looking for looms etc.. as I would plan on having the car off the road for minimum time - famous last words probably tho! I've already started planning it all in my head and i've not even found one never mind sorting money out!

Yeah ebay prices seem slightly silly, hence trying to find other sources. I do agree, if i want an R32, i should really do that. I would always wish and wonder. Thanks for input everyone, if anything else comes up, please just holler! Cheers, j

Thanks quicky. I'll be trawling for evermore now! I'm trying to weigh up the benefits of R32 over 4motion and can't get the 'extra 60ish horses' chat out my head but the bank balance (or lack of) is the killing factor. :( I take it from your guide that there are going to be few differences between the 4motion 2.8 and the r32 install wise? I've got some questions forming i'll add to your other thread tho :) Thanks, j

Cheers mate. That's really what I want, to learn how to repair / service/ mod myself. Unfortunately I've neither the time nor space at the moment and the car being my daily just compounds the problem. Where there's a will there's a way though... Offer of help is still there if you go down this route. I've not really got a car project going just now so would be fun to have something to help on!

Thanks Fla. Will keep my eye out for them too. Decisions decisions....argh :(

Hey, I'm starting too look at my options for an 3.2 conversion and this has been brilliant help. Just wondering if 'you have plans to release 'v2'? I'm looking at most options for enjoyablke power increases and this to me seems the best option. Cheers, J :)

Agreed. I'd happily swap mine for a red un :D Kev, we should talk...

I've looked on ebay and the net and there seems to be a limited choice. Where do most people source engines? I live nr Glasgow too, so the further north the better! Not that i'm buying now, but doing my research....

As he said, just need a punch/drift with a sharp edge and it's a doodle. You can tell when the race is seated as the sound is distinctly more metallic when you hit it and you can feel the shock through the drift more sharply.

hmmm, it'll only rev with the metering arm? What happens when you get a steay lowish revs with the arm, then use the throttle to hold the revs up, letting the arm do it's own thing? I'm convinced this is an isv issue as it's virtually identical to the issues i had with my MK2. The ISV didn't buzz tho traced it to a broken wire which cured all woes with a quick solder. Possibly the ISV control unit, which on the MK2 sits under the centre console in front of the gearstick - isv might buzz, but wrong signals being sent?

I fitted one of these recently as whilst I an more than happy with how it performs, I've had an issue with it already, as has Cazza. Was a funny noise from the front last night so took it easy and investigated this morning. Was very surpised to find the bolt had fallen out the bottom of the mount! I had certainly tightened it when fitted last week, but on advice from Cazza was due to check. His top bolt had worked loose! I replaced the bolt but the replacement was slightly short and only covered about 4 winds of thread - promptly stripped the thread from the mount without even applying much force. I managed to get a really long bolt and applied locking compound (as per Kev's suggestion elsewhere) so hopefully this will help but will keep a close eye. Two things then to beware of - > you can't torque the bolts right up due to the nature of the alloy. > The bolts may have a tendancy to loosen, so locking compound is a must. I'm not saying this to put people off, just sharing info to hopefully benefit all when they go to fit. :)

I don't need this type of pressure you know... I've started trawling the threads on the turbo route. I like the look of the kit from Stealth, but would prefer the challenge of fitting myself, not just on (possible) cost grounds, but because I'd get much more satisfaction doing it myself and would learn things i don't know just now - wouldn't really get that from a fully fitted. I wonder if they've gotten anywhere with a DIY kit. If the standard ECU is retained with a stock manifold, would i be able to retain my LPG kit? I know it's possible to run LPG with turbo's and when i got mine fitted, there was an extra charge, so assuming it should be possible with bigger injectors/reducer and some other tweaking. Would be shame to waste the fitted kit, and I really would want to keep it as having a turbo would only add to my 20k a year mileage! Kev might send you a pm at some point once I've gathered my thoughts and researched more if that's ok? Cheers, J

You made me chuckle Kev, you've worded perfectly how i've been feeling these last few months! Cams, VGI, turbo, super....all thoughts goin round. Cams are likely to be my first port as whatever i do needs to be non time consuming as it's my daily :-) will just keep thinking for now, sadly turbo is just too costly....so i tell myself. Just imagine the other halfs reaction - you spent 4k on that pipe and it still makes a whoosing noise? Lol :-)

I'd be interested in prices too if you don't mind sharing, Thanks, j

I've looking into this online, and the general formula seems to be for FWD WHP/0.85. I'm wondering what people's opinions/experiences are with the VR6 Corrado specfically. My WHP was 165 so using this formula,that would give me 195bhp. This seems slightly optimistic in my view as a) it's a virtually stock engine and b) it doesn't feel like it's got 194bhp! Is there another figure that experience has shown/proved is nearer the Rado/reflects the power loss? Thanks, J

I don't understand this, why all the talk of shearing brackets? Was the cause of the G60 def the mount, or did it just happen to have a solid one? My mount was so sloppy that the engine was constantly rocking back and forth, and therefore more likely to cause damage by (unwanted) engine movement. Surely the forces going through the solid mount and the bracket are no different to before, the difference is there is not the shock of a sloppy mount. I would have thought the forces at the front of the engine are more vertical than lateral too (at least in terms of accel/decel), so having the bracket attached to a solid mount would again not cause any additional stresses? Happy to be educated further so I can monitor this on mine.

I don't mean to sound negative, but just beware as your system is now more of an exception, which always causes problems.

I don't know if i mentioned this on another thread, but another rolling road session shows I've 'lost' 9bhp with the gas, which to be honest it pretty negligible, especially considering I rarely have cause to use the full power anyway. So that makes the noticable difference zero :)

If it's k-jet then you would be looking at a single point system. These are pretty old school and not very highly regarded. That said, there was a time not too long ago that was all you could get, but they were very temperamental and very rudimentary - basically the gas gets injected straight into the intake and left to flow to the cylinders, as opposed to the modern multi-point, which injects set amounts of gas into individual cylinders. My parents had an old Merc years ago that was converted to single point and it never ever ran properly, so much so that they took it all out. With over 7k miles on gas since end October, I've worked out it costs me 2/3 of what it would cost on petrol with a multi-point system. Single point doesn't really let you tune and optimise the gas settings.

I've had T1-R's (195 45 16) fitted for years because they are cheap but not utter garbage. I've always thought they were okay and vertainly fine in the wet, but the Continental Winter tyres i've got on (195 50 16) do handle amazingly well in wet AND dry, as proven on a number of long drives over Xmas. So, is the difference down to the higher profile, or the tyre? Or both. hmmm But must say, I've had really crappy tyres before and would not regard Toyo as poor performers.