jamiehamy

I've recently started using a spray when loosening any bolts that has worked wonders for me on the Corrado and my old Mk2 16v ( which has lots of old rusty bolts!). Don't know the rules on product placement, but it's called Super Crack, i think different manufacturers make it. Usually i don't really believe these things, but this really has been amazing. Apparently when you spray it on it cools the area and the cooling effect sooks the lubricant into the join. So far everything I've used it on has come off with liberal amounts of the stuff. Might not help now, but hopefully if others try in the future, it will make life easier!

I'll go for 4 please. Thanks, J

Fitted standard suspension - drives like a dream with Koni t/a's over our horrendous Scottish roads! Fitted new clutch master cylinder. Feels much better, but still not 100% happy, seems to be varying degrees of resistance. Sometimes it's light, sometimes heavy. Thoughts anyone? Next up - door striker pins.

Drove from Glasgow to France - Amiens, Lyons, Provence, Toulouse and into Spain back via Bordeaux and the whole journey, i never saw one single Corrado bar my own! That was 15days and 4000miles. Leads me to believe they never sold the Corrado in France! Does anyone know if they actually did sell it there?

Fitted the new master cylinder today, using M6 nuts and bolts. Had one small glitch that i believe is now resolved. The clutch was fairly heavy which was puzzling. I released the master and slave nipples in case of excess pressure(?) but didn't fix. It now seems that the rubber gaitor for the pushrod was dry and catching on the rod itself. This made the pedal feel heavy. Bit of white grease on the pushrod sorted it. Result - nice light but firm clutch and great engagement in all gears :) Now just need to get the brakes firmer and she must literally drive as new ( bar the rattly interior). :) :)

I like this one, simply because it's my car looking dusty have done what she was built for in the place they make the wine! My dear mother sweating in the heat too!

The mixture might be too lean now? Could try this if you're clean and careful. Disconnect the metering head from the airbox and lift it up. Underneath, carefully feel for the arm. Push it up a small amount ( 1cm?). Hold it there and get someone to try start it. If it starts, just let it go and carefully lower the metering head back down. I had a similar problem with my 16v Golf and it was mixture related. I made it run a bit richer and it helped, although was not quite 100%. Whilst this experiment might not solve the problem, it might at least prove it's capable of starting and hopefully help diagnose.

Cool, Sounds like that's what I'll have to do. Thanks everyone for your help, much appreciated. J :)

argh, that's completely different to mine! Mines has a bleed nipple. I think i'm destined not to get a new one :-(

How would i go about ordering from them? I'm not in the trade. Also, still not sure they would have the right part, given recent issues :( The ATE one from Euro looks good, but just can't fit it directly...i'm wondering if maybe the m/s has been replaced before, and that was the bodge. Dave, did your fluid supply pipe point upwards or forwards? If upwards, can you supply me with your part number please? Thanks all.

Thanks fla. The one that is almost right is this one, taken from Eurocarpart's website. (hope i'm not breaching copyright). I suppose i could bodge it on, but really reluctant to do so. I would need to try thread the hole on the left ( looking from front), then wind a stud in. Or simply use a normal nut and bolt and forego the threaded hole. Not really ideal, but might be forced to by the sounds of it.

Hi all, I've been through all previous threads, but not really getting anywhere. I've been to VAG and they don't have them (as i thought), however they said they did (!) and ordered a Mk3 VR6 m/c. Anyway, went to Euro and 3 m/c later and still not the right one. They had an ATE one that looked right, however the fluid supply pipe was pointing forward, not directly up and, more crucially, it didn't have a threaded bolt on one of the mounting holes. On mine, the left hand mounting hole shows the end of a bolt ( not the hex end) which indicates the hole is theaded, and the other side has a nut showing (looking from front of car). I use the car everyday and can't afford to take her off the road to try investigate and/or attempt a new pedal box, so does anyone have any thoughts? It's a August 93 model. Thanks in advance.

Tappets or lifters are a good bet, one will be sticking a bit. I had the noise from the same place. Also listen closely to your injectors, as they tick quite a bit too! Maybe mine are wonky, but i can hear them rhythmically ticking away.

Hmmm... mine actually sounds better when cold, it's once it's warm the chattery noise starts. Sometimes quieter, sometime louder. Admittedly you can't ear it with the windows up, but driving by parked cars above 2k rpm i can hear it. It sounded the same before i did the chains and stuff, (which incidentally had virtually no wear..doh!) and the lifters are new. Unless the 10w40 Mobile 2000 oil is too thin for the old engine. I'm probably way too fussy tho as i've said before, but it's like a game!

That's good to know. Do you know where they were converted? I live up north, but would rather give the car to a company with experience with my type of engine, simply because they may be more familiar with any issues, Thanks again, J

Thanks Joni. I've had a look and seems all positive, just looking to find out more from a standard engine perspective. Doesn't seem like many people have done it before. Reluctant to be a guinea pig tho! Do you notice a cleaner engine and the other benefits that seem to be associated with LPG? Also, can you start on LPG or do you need to start on petrol til warmed up? J :)

Hi all, I've looked on this forum and on the wider web and can find very little first hand information on converting a (standard!) VR6 to LPG. Given the miles i do in my car, I'm seriously considering giving this a go. Has anyone here had this done and can share experiences ( good and bad)? I occasionally see adverts for Sharan VR6's running LPG, but very few on the Corrado. Ideally i'm looking to have a company do it who have done a few Corrado's before, but can't really find much. I know my mum's old Merc 300 was converted, but never ran right and had it taken back out, hence my caution. Any info will be great thanks!

Just to add to this, i def recommend braided hoses rather than rubber. The rubber on my lower hose had been rubbing on a radiator cowl unseen and eventually rubber a hole in it, (just at the border with Spain!) Rather unpleasant seeing blue smoke out the back and oil pour out the engine 1700miles from home! Fortunately stopped immediately and after being taken to a garage, I was able to strip the front end and get in and fix :) So, braided hoses will help prevent this and also double check the hose routing to make sure nothing is rubbing :) Best mod tothe car tho, it's never been above 100C

I thought I was almost at the end of my 'to do' list, but clearly not! Only clutch master cylinder to go which will be this weekend. Then i need to weigh up H&R springs or engine mounts...decisions! I've got a spare head I might rebuild over the winter then and fit one weekend. Is there a definitive guide on VR6 head overhaul anywhere? I've not found one that goes into great detail. Should I clean valves or get new ones? How much would it cost for all the parts inc VAG gasket? Cheers, J

that would be good, hearing how difference healthy engines sound. I'll go up to 15w40 at next oil change. Defo strange that Mk3's and dizzy models appear to be smoother. Does anyone know if doing the Basic Setting on the ECU has a big effect?

Ah! Thanks for the responses, much appreciated! Dan - I'm so glad you said that about Mk3's. I've always thought that but wasn't sure. Dr Mat - I did the work myself, so never did the oil pump drive gears, I take it it's worth doing? RW1 - I'm starting back on Shell as I had suspicions of Tesco fuel! Only thing i can't do is the basic settings. I get 35mpg easy tho, so can't be too important? Thanks, J

I might be getting slightly OCD with this, but I want my Corrado to run as smoothly and quietly as possible. I've done the chains, tensioners and lifters and the engine performs well, no issues at all HOWEVER Idle when warm is always seems less smooth than when cold There is always some 'chatter' from the engine when you rev in neutral. In terms of idle, how smoothly do the VR6's actually run? There is no lumpiness or anything like that, more of a faint judder ( like that moment in Jurassic Park actually where you see the water in the glass shake!). Is this normal or can I try and get it smoother? Timing is spot on as I re-checked when I did the lifters at the weekend. In terms of valve train noise, will it ever be as silent as a modern V6 or Japanese car? Any thoughts are welcome, even if it's just to tell me they are old engines and just calm down! Cheers, J

I'd like to go for one of these if any are still available? Can you let me know and PM me details? THanks, j

thanks for the prompt posting of the kit Dave. This must be the best value item i've bougt for the car, plus very high quality. Now i don't need to go into work next week with a screw driver! Cheers

Can i have details on cost, postage and payment please. In France and the drivers has given up the ghost, tho removing the plastic cover from the lock anbd cunning use of a screwdriver is working fine,albeit drawing some funny looks! Cheers, J