_Matt_

Re the fuel leak - is it engine bay or at the rear? I'd be tempted to replace the fuel lines just incase they have perished. Even newer fuel line that is supposed to be compatible with newer fuel can perish quickly. I bought some Mocol fuel line assuming it was a good brand / not a "chinese knock off". All good so far. https://mattlewisracing.co.uk/products/mocal-6mm-r9-rubber-high-pressure-e10-petrol-diesel-ethanol-hose?srsltid=AfmBOoqR_xM2dnIdj8QxceVU-NYlxEbDApslCHtix1P9VJYGKZ1y7nl7 Slow starting I have only experienced when warm and that was the FPR for me but start with Dox's suggestion on monitoring temps when starting as first port of call. FPR if you need it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332308717053

It is the right part number listed 1H0919651Q but the description stating 2.8 VR6 makes me want to double check as they can be 3bar and not 4 bar (however the part number listed ending in Q is 4 bar so in theory is ok, perhaps email them to check before purchasing as they don't state 4 bar on the listing). Here is another link for a pump and it specifically says 4bar which is what you need (same part number). https://www.mecatechnic.com/en-GB/4-bar-petrol-pump-for-vw-golf-3-and-vento-vr6-1995_GC46420.htm

Nice and like the wheels. Has it taken 20 years?! Worth the wait for sure looks great.

I had already subscribed - anyone doing corrado content I am thankful for to raise the profile of the cars. Good to have you on the forum too!

Nice update James. With nearly 11 and 9 year olds myself the last two pictures remind how fast time goes by.

Joining this sticky, will this mod improve the play in my steering column? I know what i have is pretty normal but would like to tighen it up and make it feel more sold. Video attached. Also if i did this mod can i keep it locked at the middle position or would it only work locked in the upper position? Cheers 20240624_193623.mp4

Looked good in the sunshine on the school run this morning. Obligatory corner spot away from everyone else of course... it is a pub car park hence the camper in the field.

I had thought about the National Day but too much going on around that date with work and kids etc

That is great and satisfying I bet for you to see it back on it's wheels and out of the garage. I remember how I felt last month when I got to the same place, though have not done as much work as you, it just felt like it went and on on axle stands.

Amazing job Chris. Concourse + some more. Where did you get that banner of the corrado in the background... I have space to fill on the wall and that would be perfect.

Looks good, what colour is that? Is it being imported or something?

Woah that is tidy! I bet the only Corrado in the world to have such attention to detail on those slam panel parts.

Thanks Chris. Good you got hold of a rear engine mount, I was looking last year for someone else and none available. I'll look again. If I went VT I think I'd go front for sure, perhaps rear engine and mk2 golf diesel gearbox mount by the looks of things on this forum. Though if I could get a rear engine oem style mount I'd probably do that instead to save some pennies.

Perhaps it was a collection of parts being weak causing an issue and this part was the last item standing with an issue. Either way can't harm anything except my wallet having a full fuel system part refresh I suppose. Clutch has got better with use too, Vince suggested doing anoter 200 miles and using the gears to engine brake to bed the clutch in. Not "right" yet but i think it will get there. I'm going back to have the subframe swapped over and some engine mounts in autumn. If i can get some uprated ARBs I will go for those too. Any thoughts on engine mounts? Understand the rear engine one is obsolete. Is vibratechnics worth it all round? I had the front one last time and no issues with vibration. Assume powerflex would be ok for the steering rack bush? Any other bushes i should look at on the steering column?

Put 100 miles on the car over the last week. Today I'm off work and back home and decided to test the old FPR by putting it back in the car, going for a drive and waiting 15 mins to restart it. It cranks and cranks. Swap back to the bosch 4bar and it the car starts straight away after 15 mins sitting. The only minor issue with the bosch item is that the diameter for the vac line is smaller than the oem fpr. I'll get some smaller diameter vac line to compensate. Oem fpr in the picture.

Re the dipping - it's not something I have considered. The factory underseal protects well and when I've had any failing underseal causing some rust i've found once gone over with the wire wheel the metal is clean when you've got an inch or two away from the affected area. WIth dipping you also loose many factory features, such as the colour name hand written on the transmission tunnel and the soundproofing material stuck under the scuttle/above bulkhead. You've also got to be pragmatic about it all as these cars as wonderful as they are won't get you back what you end up putting in, even though we all do it from an enthusiast lens, it's sometimes sensible to keep yourself straight on what needs to be achieved. Good you chatted to Dan, I am on his waiting list but my current corrado doesn't really need anything deparately doing to it. No doubt i'll pick something else up for him to work on. Good for you to go into this as a long term project, I sold a 16v oak green mk2 through impatience, though not sure i really liked the colour that much tbh. Prefer the greys and blues and white. When you're all done use a good cavity wax, Bilt Hamber are good, to protect it all from inside out. I've got the Essex border 100meters down the road and the cambridge border a few miles north. Happy to help you out with things - I've got a press for bearings and bushes etc and have restored the front hubs for another corrado chap recently.

Here is a link to the Corrado gallery at DST https://www.facebook.com/profile/100063744964176/search/?q=Corrado&locale=en_GB

I'm also based in Hertfordshire, on the borders between Essex/Cambridge/Herts. Fabricators are few and far between I have found! I don't really know of anyone locally except for Finishline in Stevenage. I would look at DST Rustworx up Scarborough way. He is a master at fabricating from scratch i.e he could make your arches from sheet metal... which is probably what is needed as any corrado specific panel requiring repair has no pattern part available. Parts shared with the mk2 like rear jack points can be had from pattern parts. As for cost.... you'll not like this... but it would be cheaper to buy a "good" car from the start. Bodywork is expensive, you're probablt looking at c£3k for welding and c£6k+ for a full respray, more if you want to go back to metal. Then mechanicals - engine rebuild is 5k+, may get away with chains, head, clutch for about half that. Then refurbishing all chassis parts and replacing with new, inc suspension will be c£2.5k. I don't want to put you off, anything is possible if you're resourceful and you can save money by doing works yourself.

They are the same as the the mk2 golf.

Iirc one of the them will go on the end to match what you have in the car... however I last fixed on of these myself in 2019 so my memory might have failed me.

No worries! I changed my FPR today with both my old one from my white corrado (orig part) and a new bosch 4 bar item. Just trying to cure long crank when warm still... Anyway - before changing when I disconnect the vac line my engine note noticeably changes, a touch higher revs. Trying both bosch and my old one the engine note does not noticeably change when disconnecting the vac line. Perhaps a slight lumpy idle but nothing noticeable. No idea what that means. Have left the new bosch fpr installed for now. Weather is too miserable to test.

The koni kit only comes with a few bits, on top of this you'll need: Front: 2x Top spring plates 1H0412341 (£30ea from VW classics currently) https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalog/en_uk/part/1H0412341 2x Spring top caps (can see in engine bay, you might already have these) 357412319B (£10ea from VW classics) https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalog/en_uk/search?q=357412319B 2x Top mount and bearing 2x Bush nuts 1H0412365A for tightening down the top mount to damper (the kit comes with the nut that tightens the top cap) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201173158711?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5339017974&toolid=10049&customid=Cj0KCQjwjLGyBhCYARIsAPqTz1_32tJftEuU6mnah5vdKBEz23rwIvdCOlDjZ7noLcnndt-1Z-G1oK0aAlSwEALw_wcB&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjLGyBhCYARIsAPqTz1_32tJftEuU6mnah5vdKBEz23rwIvdCOlDjZ7noLcnndt-1Z-G1oK0aAlSwEALw_wcB 2x bump stop and cover kit 357413175A https://www.autodoc.co.uk/kavo-parts/18460946?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&tb_prm=20678051027&gshp=1&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjLGyBhCYARIsAPqTz1_oK9KTRj2BaC3rmvKEFY9xW-mYFOAFBDBchYxhN9j23wUvm8zVjZ4aAvmqEALw_wcB Rear: 2x bump stop and cover kit kit comes with everything else for the rear You might want to change your top mounts but the rears tend to last and last if oem. You may also need the top spring plate and rubber if the coilovers don't use that set up https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394801789828?chn=ps&_ul=GB&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-166974-033325-9&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=394801789828&targetid=2282373763631&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9050372&poi=&campaignid=20981831952&mkgroupid=160695684855&rlsatarget=pla-2282373763631&abcId=9375725&merchantid=627648500&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjLGyBhCYARIsAPqTz1_DsNYG3CkEXPa0ZuEtpFoiRGo9wHjgLfJoJm3q775b3yM1xsWxxhwaAhN1EALw_wcB

Water has a tendency to travel in the most unusual ways. Another area to look if not the door membranes or sunroof drains is the windscreen itself. Rot can fester between seal and screen and allow water to flow. I'd be tempted to get the seats, sound deadening and carpet out and try to find leaks that way also.

I like the height with the H&Rs, I like some comfort and pleased to report even with a 90mm splitter I can make it over those central speedhumps without touching. The powerflex rear bushes I do not notice on ride quality but they stiffen up the rear on handling. Difficult to describe but the rear follows the front in a positive way/you feel it rotate. Happy for now at least.

Clean pass on the MOT. Still long crank when warm though. And another issue I had thought would "go away" with use is the flywheel. It had the chains/clutch etc last year at stealth but it judders when you engage clutch, mot place reckons flywheel needs work. I'll take it back to Vince, want to swap out subframe and fit uprated ARBs anyway and don't fancy the job myself.