_Matt_

Yeah I know what you mean on the website but I have bought things from overseas via PayPal Goods and Services and not had a problem. If it does go south the Goods and Services will protect you. One thing to be mindful of is whether they will add on the VAT otherwise you'll be stung for that on import + import fees. Brexit has made things worse here for parts from Europe. Re alloy I probably would if I had no other option. For me it's about the athestics and I would just prefer some that looked OEM however if it's not possible to find an OEM my hand would be forced. In terms of alloy doing the job as well as an OEM I'd say it's just as good.

This is the part number to help your search 535121251B. I could only find an aluminium rad https://www.kuehler-rath.com/VW-Audi-Motorkuehler-12038-535-535121251B

I had a Gamma in mine for a while no probs. The standard unit in the UK market would have been a Sony tape deck like this sort of thing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266438384680?hash=item3e08f71c28:g:d1IAAOSwoIZlHB~q Sound quality was awful on the Sony though. Gamma was much better. I now have the Bremen SQR46 which is excellent, looks period but with mod cons. Unit is half the depth of a traditional tape/cd unit so will definitely fit in yours.

oh yes of course - he's a good chap

Hi Hasan, yea no probs - it was Pip at https://www.facebook.com/Pipsdent/ He went above and beyond on mine - wifes car had more dents than I had noticed and it took them all out whilst he was here and another from my daily I hadn't noticed too. Did it all as part of the original job.

where abouts are you based, you're London based? The guy i used was from Watford and travelled up to me east of Royston / North Herts.

The engine should be fine at that mileage (and is capable of much more). T4s suffer from rust, check mot history and get under it looking for rust. Some surface is to expected and a lanogaurd treatment will do it no end of good Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

This is my one, well it was the one in my breaker car but part no was the same. Good luck with the diagnostic, looks like you're making strong progress. It is frustrating at times when things don't work and not being able easily get parts.

My breaker Corrado had Davia aircon and had the same fan control unit as what was in my current non aircon 94 VR6 - I know this as I swapped the units over as the breaker one was in better visual condition. Not sure if that is of any help.

Just coming back to this to give an idea of cost on dents - I had a few quotes from mobile dent people as have 3 on the Corrado, 2 on my new daily and some arse put 1 on my wife's new car too (neither a new, i'm not a baller 😮, they are 3 - 4 years old). The companies seem to quote per panel - £65 to £75 + vat per panel however they are also open to quoting for the job. I'm getting 6 dents on all cars taken out for £200 all in. Not cheap but compared to bodyshop paint and welding it's very cheap and gets results that might balance up the car to enjoying. For me i can live with stonechips but can't stand door dings so it's worth it for me.

With yours having a bottom end rebuild I'd reckon with a few miles under its belt it would loosen up and produce more. My bottom end is 91k "run in" 😄. My white corrado did 219.7hp and 211 ibft, again orignal bottom end but with 150k on it. Interesting on the warm start, are you suffering as well? Given your parts list changed vs mine on the 2 I have had it does start to point towards the fuel pump. Although it could be ECU as well. Reluctant to buy one though as they are expensive for a vdo unit.

I have a used geniune spare vr6 rad that I'd be happy for a re-core company to use it as a template to create a new version of it (as long as I could have one back for myself too). I asked one place a few years ago but they declined as it had plastic ends.

Power chart - thanks for reminding I had been meaning to post it for a while. Hot day too at 32 degrees.. I really appreciate the torque at lower revs, 200ft pounds by 3500 rpm, if i recall 180ft pounds is the stock peak figure, which with 263s 180ft pounds is being made at around 2400rpm. The warm start is a pain. I feel it is solveable (I hope) as my last one did and once Vince had done the head, chains, injectors and fuel pump (also had 263s + a remap) it was solved on that car. Unfortuntely it was all done at the same time so we don't know what sovled it! Prior to all that work I did the cam, crank, ecu temp, 1 way valve, HT leads to no avail. I've got my injectors booked in at Mr Injector end of October and will report back their findings. Luckily they are only a 25min drive from me too. Before I take them out I'll install the 1-way valve on the outlet pipe from the pump (did that on my white one too but didn't solve). At the moment I am fixated on solving the issue though the car is useable and isn't anywhere near as bad as my white one... I just fear if I leave it, it will get worse.

Missed this sorry Cressa. I've only had the head refurbed rather than modified. The cams I find brings it life more and it has a slightly deeper bellow on full throttle. Idles like oem. Cams are a great reasonable mod compared to say a schrick Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Changed the injector seals on the Corrado today. Attempting to solve the too many cranks when it is warm and sat for 5mins. Didn't solve the issue though of course the injectors may need a service but it was a cheap job to try and see. There was red grease around them so at least I've cleaned that up, I just used a smear of fresh oil on seals to seat them cleanly. Will try the crank sensor next but out of time for messing around. Also changed the coil. It starts normally and drives fine just takes longer than you'd expect. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Hi, Thoughts from me -> 1) the list of jobs that have been done to the car (chains, paint, suspension) would cost a pretty penny - I believe a full respray is now in excess of £7k for a good job. I've just had chains, head refurb, clutch done myself and it wasn't cheap. Assuming the scraper seals and other trims on the car are in nice condition too it would soon cost you more than £15k to do that to a cheaper car requiring to the work. 2) If you want a decent Corrado it's going to cost £15-20k to get one to a decent condition level whichever way you look at it (a project car you spend over years or buying one off the bat that is sorted). If the £14.5k car is good I don't think you're in a bad place money wise (assuming nothing big to spend for a few years, obsolete parts in good condition and body work is good and not full of filler etc). The current market could give you bargaining power to make a lower offer and bare in mind Corrado's are niche and not easy to sell, which goes both ways as be prepared yourself that getting your money back out again isn't as easy as other cars. Also a consideration, if not wanting to lose: -in the late 90s classic car values dropped to buttons and nobody wanted them. That could happen again and all things considered is more likely than not with cost of living, interest rates, affordability etc. -the recent covid boom on prices isn't normal and do expect prices to be less than recent history. -it costs more to renovate and maintain these cars than they are worth as an asset. Personally I keep these things in mind and balance that against jobs I want to do to my car i.e. don't go too mad spending as unlikely to see it back. I do what I consider is needed to make a decent, useable example & do modification I personally want (i.e. don't expect to see that cash ever again). I don't look at the car as place to put some money and flip in a years time for example else i'd be sorely disappointed! Feel free to PM me the advert for comment and thoughts

It is obsolete but Diasis make a oem style replacement. It comes in and out of stock at autodoc (out sadly at the moment): https://www.autodoc.co.uk/aks-dasis/1719649

Great work on the headlining, tidy job 🙂 Nice to be running around in it. I'm about to take mine off road again to fit suspension and rear beam refurb.

It's not something I have thought about but now you mention it and putting 2+2 together is probably a sceranrio we should all consider. I saw a mk2 golf from a youtuber was stolen the other month and no doubt it happens regularly outside of the spotlight. Trouble is i suspect the cars are probably broken for parts so even if you did track and find it you'd be met with sadness anyway 😞

Hi, Looking for the rear lot of hard lines to make my life easier on rebuilding the rear axle. Anyone know of anyone making them up? There was a chap on here but don't think he is around anymore/didnt reply to my message. Cheers Matt Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Thanks Dave, will do

I''ve got a BMC but haven't fitted it. I don't have a bracket it for it. Where did you mount your sub? I'm looking for something hidden but all i can think of is the back of the rear seat. I've got JBLs in the audioscapes, touch wood it's ok the membrane but it never sees wet weather so I don't know for sure!

YUM YUM 😉 Good to see any Corrado getting love and yours is coming along really nicely. Looks a great mechanic's shop too - nicely shaped brake lines and all the other details.

Thanks Chris. I am gald i kept them but in all honesty they don't really give much bass output when the car is on the move - I reckon upgraded stock speakers and subtle small subwoofer somewhere (perhaps one of those underseat ones hidden somewhere) would give a better audio experience. I'm going to add a sub at some point. I decided not to stay stock in the end. Longer term plan will be some H&R roll bars, will try powerflex rear beam bushes (only becuase Vince recommended and they're easy to change if i don't like). The car currently has a miltek resonated and a miltek sports cat + the 263s. I felt the power delivery was a bit "flat" when I got it, flat as in missing some sparkle rather than broken, compared to my white one which also had 263s. With 263s you do get used to the additional power quite quickly but it gives more urgency from c2500rpm and feels more muscular. I'll grab a pic of the power graph but it gives out more torque at the 2500-4000rpm window than a Schrick/VSR on stock cams and puts out more power and torque over 4000 than a schrick/VSR on stock cams (schrick/VSR torque tails off back to stock levels after the midrange and doesn't give any extra power). £pound of £pound the cams are great mod - they cost £560 and fitting is free with the head work I had done. Of course 268 cams + Schrick would be even better but that's £2.5k ++ more and I don't think you'd get % increase gain 263s offer on a standard engine. As from the rear beam and suspension work I am going to leave it there for a while as had to to buy 2 new daily cars over the last 3 months - my trusty Seat Exeo broke it's steering rack and after 3 months of being unable to source (obsolete at VAG germany) I sold it spares repairs. Bought my wife a 2020 Audi Q2 (1.0 TFSI - great little engine) as we needed something for holidays and assumed at the time my Seat would be repaired when I got back. I've just bought my self a 2019 B9 Audi A4 Avant Quattro 40 TDI. Cars are very expensive for what you get comprared to when I last bought a newish car (2014 - the Seat).

Prior to taking it to Stealth I installed new discs and pads, bearings, hubs and refurbed the front cast knuckles with new backing plates. I failed to take any photos though. As well as the Koni fitting over the winter I also hope to take the rear beam off and rebuild it.