_Matt_

So took the car out for a spanking and after an initial few want to stall moments early on in the journey it stopped doing it. The oil read out also came back too. Fans come on at 98 degrees still , i did install a new rad fan switch and also swapped over the fan control unti from my parts car. Perhaps reading too much data otherwise unknown to me with vcds constantly plugged in though I think fans came on at 96.6 when i came home - perhaps it just needs a good blast and get heat into it to burn stuff off in the engine bay. I'll take it out again tomorrow as you guys suggest just to get it moving. I wasn't able to peform the basic adaption bit of the ECU guide as only have the free version of VCDS. Fingers crossed anyway..

Cheers Fen, will have a read. Does point to car needing a drive really and reassess situ. I did the cam sensor on my last one, although I say stalling the car hasn't stalled yet, just acts as though it wants to.

Cheers Dox, will disconnect now. Interesting re Ghost codes - perhaps that was the MAF intermittent I saw as I did disconnect whilst engine was running but hadn't done anyhting with the lambda, though that has not appeared and perhaps was a hang over from when the prior owner fitted the sports cat, but i had disconnected the battery in my ownership so maybe that is wishful thinking!

I suppose I am reading the result of the ecu preventing a stall as the lambda reading was a second or so after the event. Just tested the damper on the TB and is working OK and comparable to the other corrado I have here (it's going today supposedly). So I need to take it out for a drive it seems then. I shall find some time to fit the rad fan sensor to try and get stage 1 working as believe that stage works solely off the rad sensor.

Also cleaned the maf with a maf spray from liquid moly. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

OK some testing tonight, 2 issues at play I reckon - screenshots are the fans, that is when they come on - 98 degrees so probable stage 1 isn't working. Tomorrow I will switch out the rad fan switch as it arrived today. I also swapped the coil pack and ignition leads over to a spare set - no changes and a touch worse actually on wanting to stall. The coil was a bosch unit on the car where as the replacement was a vw unit but made by some random company beginning with T. I also noted when the issues occurred- about 80 degrees, so assume that is when the lambda sets in. No fault codes tonight, oh and I also cleaned up all of the earth points (under battery, to block, to starter and 3 under behind isv). When the car wants to the stall the lambda reading drops as low as 0.83. It usually hovers close to 1 otherwise. Also it only wants to stall after giving it more than half throttle, if you rev it gently it doesn't do it. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Cheers Dox will investigate. It does pop between 1-2k rpm on throttle blips, i thought it was the sports cat increasing the popping. My last one did as well but not as loud on the standard cat, when the Miltek was fitted. Lambda of course could have been disturbed on wiring when the sports cat was fitted. The car probably needs a decent run but reluctant to do it at the moment.

Good point - hot, post 88 degrees coolant the issues appear now, though before the blue sensor was changed it was from cold too. Engine temp gets to 98 degrees before fans kick in which is what makes me think stage 1 is not happening as believe that should happen at c95 degrees off of the rad sensor. I had a read of the cooling guide on here and concluded it was probably the rad sensor. Readouts on VCDS are stable, lambda swings around 1 for example, idle is 680 when it's behaving. Throttle body angle seems reasonable. This is the car running normally, on warm up, no problems - it does have a miltek sports cat and miltek resonated exhaust as the only modifcation https://photos.app.goo.gl/qDvYGX2qaEKNQjWi6 This is it a few mins later after a fault code appears, shame i didn't capture vcds screen. Can do it again if helpful to see https://photos.app.goo.gl/BEKYyUV6fDP6YEHf9

Battery new and always on trickle charge too + is charging fine off alternator (13.7-14.2v i see)

Hi all, I'm trying to get the car ready for Cosford 35th but am getting intermiitent fault codes on VCDS lite. I first had the blue ecu sensor which I replaced, now I get the MAF (early 5 pin on this car), clear it off and then I get the Lambda etc and the cycle continues. My thinking is that not all these sensors are at fault and perhaps I have an earthing issue affecting the whole system? VCDS also can't connect to the ABS controller but I don't have the ABS light on (it comes on and goes off as normal on start up). I've also lost my oil readout on the dash too, that connector looks particular green though and needs a clean up. Symptons when fault codes appear - wants to stall but doesn't i.e coming up to junctions or reving from idle, idle will drop to 500rpm if stationery. Clear the codes and it all goes back to normal! Any ideas? Also lost stage 1 fan but am awaiting on a new sensor to see if that fixes it. Stage 2 works. I'm trying to avoid replacing sensors for the sake of it. Also have tried unplugging MAF and car stalls straight away - i remember doing similar analysis on my old car and it used to still run with MAF disconnected. If i disconnect the Throttle position sensor with MAF connected the idle rises to 1000rpm and it runs fine. Oh also i've checked the vacuum lines visually, all good, including the two green bungs under the waterpump area. I have cleaned out and bench tested the ISV. Cleaned out the throttle body at the same time. Inspected the intake boot and swapped with a spare too. Car is going to Stealth end of August for chains and clutch but would be nice to solve before. The car is is all original and not messed with in anyway but hasn't been used much at all since 2005, perhaps 500 miles a year since then. Still has VW coil pack too. The car has always had these issues since buying it. Cheers

Pm me your no and I'll add you. Got to be 20 or so of us over this way.

Yeah power wise they work on movement. I'm just not convinced I've done the heated seat part right but have no other spaces on my fusebox to slot them in. I have another corrado in my garage, which I tool the loom from, however the layout across the top of the fuse box is completely different!

I might get Vince to take a look but to be fair ill never use the heated part anyway. Car is going end of summer for chains and now I've had vcds lite there are some other gremlins as it wants to stall now and again - lambda, maf intermittent. Blue ECU which I've replaced.

No worries I have left it for now. The tilt and height are always live - I've followed a guide and plugged into a red block at the back of fuse box and earthed to the earth ring behind headlight switch. The heated seat part only appears to heat with the engine running but the relays click on second ignition when rotating the switch to turn on. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Autodoc is pretty good - can get Lemforder from there Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Cheers Cressa. Would be good to know and my wiring is different to how it came out of my parts car (both cars still in garage) and infact the layout across the top of the fuse box is different in both cars. I ran the seats with engine running today and they did get warm - do they not run on ignition only? Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

And just to confirm this is where I've plugged them in (only slots available) The heated seat switch on dash is always illuminated and relays click. Seats done appear to heat up though.

Hi all, thread resurrection. I'm putting the heated seat loom in the new corrado but my fuse box layout is different to the pics - trying to figure out which is TV8 and TV5. I only have 2 spare connections on the top row and if I plug in the switch illuminates and relays click but just want to be sure it's a free for all on where I plug the green and grey in?

A friend did it with the beam on car. You are able to detach the brake lines and let that system hang in the air too. However he put poly bushes in and I would imagine it being awkward to try and press in the oem bushes with the beam hanging & if you've got as far as to allow movement with brake lines you'd may as well take the whole lot off?

Moved Just so you know there is a chap on the facebook corrado club gb group who get sunroof repair kits manufactured. He's called Kieran Rado and makes batches on and off so would need to get your name on the waiting list if was an option you wanted to take.

Welcome Mark, nice purchase. Putting 2 and 2 together I take it you're the recent joiner on the whatsapp/East England group 🙂

My pet hate is people damaging other people's stuff :( There is something about older cars that attract damage. Do people look down on them as cheap old rubbish? My wife inherited a Y reg Corsa C with just 10k on the odo and it's been door dinged twice already and we both make sure to park away from others. Whilst your C is road parked id agree its not worth fixing up the body however it is a balance to not detract the ownership experience for yourself too. Sent from my SM-G990B2 using Tapatalk

Lanoguard is pretty good as a clear covering or ACF 50 Import is good way to go too. Also saves on expensive road tax on say a mk5 r32 or I bet R36 if they were available in the UK - c£200 per year vs c£700 for UK registered cars. Corrado is looking lovely Chris. Just looking back at brakelines, did you make those or buy in? I've messaged a guy on here but not if still active. I can do it but I don't think i have the eye to make them as perfect as yours.

I'm not sure, on the ClubGTI forum there is a guy called Rubjonny who knows his onions on this type of stuff. Stick a post up there?

Yep same here - they can be hit or miss and they stock crappy pattern parts too. I bought a load of stuff from Classics, got stung on an import charge but when I looked at the bill i wasn't actually charged VAT on my purchase in Germany and the charge was 25% inc a handling fee. Didn't think that was that bad really. I believe bulky parts can be an issue with excessive handling charges though. Another place to try for mechancial bits is AVS Spares in Norfolk (online mail order). Easy to use website and and if you contact him with a part number he can get parts for you - helpful chap.