Rossco

Woo hoo, im uber excited about me M3 stylee lights :)

Right ive pretty much finnished my G60 swap and will be firing her up tomoroow night fingers crossed. One thing that has been bothering me is the fact that when i turn the key to position one i can hear the fuel pump rime no problem but none of the dash lights come on, ie- Battery, oil and water but the handbrake one comes on. I used the loon that came out of the G60 but im stumped now, does anyone know how these circuits work and how i could go about checking them?? Im rekoning it would be too much of a coincidence to have 3 blown bulbs like :wink: Cheers

Yeh for a "sports coupe" the standard corrado ride height is silly, get some coilovers in you life my good man

Yep its all connected up, could anyone post up some pics of how it should look, especially the oil pressure ones so i can compare it with what i have?? Ta

Ok update here, due to me being retarded and not plugging the ecu plug in properly, the fuel pump is now priming large. However there are still no lights comming up on the dash bar the handbrake one, any ideas??

Come on peeps help me out please

Ha ha fair boy, nah the wheels arent on properly man, just held on wi one nut to keep them out of the way :lol:

I changed all the relays over so that my fuse box in the valver was exactly the same as the G60 one, it involved adding a relay and swapping one, anyone know the relay numbers, replys are greatly receieved

come on peeps someone must be able to help

Ok my G60 swap is goin quite well, not horribly quickly but then again you just cant rush these things As im goin im checking things and ive come accross a couple of issues, all my interior lights come on, the dials have the digital mileage and it comes up and the fan works but when i turn the key to position one the only light that come on on the clocks is the handbrake light, the oil light and the battery light dont come on. Also my fuel pump was super noisy before i swapped lumps and when i turned the key to the afore mentioned position 1 you would hear eeeeennnnnn as it primed but theres nothing now although when the key is turned fully the engine will turn over, the only plug engine side that i havent connected is the CO pot one but i can see that making any difference. One of my mates rekoned that the live feed to the ecu might not be connected but ive plugged all 4 block plugs into the fuse board, there are a couple of extra wires hanging about but apparently there for auxilary equipment like abs and stuff, anyone come up with any suggestions Cheers Ross

You would have to drill and tap the front hubs as well if you were going that way and to be honest i dont think there would be enough room, if there was it would be pretty tricky i rekon

Mine does exactly the same man and ive swapped a couple of expansion tanks around but it still does it so ive just put it down to guff wiring

Its all hooked up, the pedal just doesnt go back far enought to press the switch, its not a big gap, about 1mm

I took my servo and mastercylinder out while im doing the swap and gave it a paint and put on a new mastercylinder but when i re-fitted them the pedal doesnt reach the switch that turns off the brake lights. I notice the servo linkage looks like it can be adjusted so im guessing thats what i need to do but i dont understand why its changed as i put the stuff back in as it came out, anyone got any theories??

Aye include me too depending on price also tho

Tidy cheers boys

Somebodys havin you guys on thats a super photoshop, ive got a ton of exampes of those sort of chops if anyone else wants to see them, pretty smart like

My 16v has 2 fuel pumps one live in the tank and one lives under the car, how many pumps has the G60 got??? Does it have 2 or does it have one, as far as i can see it only has one, the one in the tank but surely there is no way this wee pump can provide enough pressure to supply the old G unit. ETKA says there are 2. As im doin my G60 swap at the mo i would like to know what to do or has anyone that has done the swap before got any info they would like to share Cheers Ross

Indeed, ye need 9's all the way my good man

Right ill take some snaps, my heater box is back in and so are some of the ducts but i rekon with wots left it will make a decent how-to and you guys will get the idea P.S i hope none of you mind getting mangled knuckles or sore knees, but if not its not that bad a job

This may destroy you mate but you dont actually have to take the whole dash board out its not that hard to do it with the dash still in, bit of a squeeze on one of the pipes but its no that bad

what ive done is went to VW and bought another bolt and take off piece the same as the ones that the sender is sitting in as standard and the bolt that goes through it so ive got both connected, if you dont understand(i dont blame you) then ill fire up a pic for you

There all pretty sweet mate but the top 2 get my vote, porche looky likey ones are pretty sweet, a boy up here has them on his mk4 golf and they look pretty ding dong

Ive just got a merc sprinter-cooler for my rad and was readin up on how to fit it, it appears some chopping needs to be done, this isnt a problem but i would like to exhaust all other means of fitting it before i trim up my pride and joy. My question is as intercooler and radiators alike are fairly simple this would it be feasable at all to have it cut down by a company say 2 inches off one of the ends?? I didnt pay a lot for the cooler so ive got a bit of loot set aside here, has anyone had this done before and can point me in the right direction Regards Ross

It still a decent place to T into the mfa vac hose that comes through the bulkhead??? I bloody hope so cos thats where mine is :?