oxfordpaul

All info above is correct i.e. early cars 1.8 16v and G60 had blue/petrol (dark interior) or platinum (grey) interior or grey/blue-green Recaro cloth option or black or grey leather (standard seats only). In 92 when 1.8 became 2.0 16V and the door cards / heater controls changed, the trim also changed to that pictured above. This is Domino material and was either Black or Platinum (as above) but only on 16V. The G60 had 'Diamond Shadow' in Black or Platinum. Also available was the same Recaro option in Grey/Blue-green cloth. Leather was Platinum (grey) or Black (standard seats only). This was Jan 92 brochure before the VR6 was available in the UK but when they 16V and G60 both had the bulbous VR6 bonnet and 3 slat grille. In Sept 92 brochure the VR6 was introduced and the trim remained the same for 16V (G60 now deleted) but VR6 had 'Diagonal Stripe' Velour in black only or leather as above but also available in beige (VR6 only). The Recaro trim continued. Finally the 'Splitt' (black) cloth and 'Atout' grey cloth was introduced (95 brochure but may have come earlier) across 8V, 16V and VR6. Leather was Black or Grey or Beige on ALL models and also on the electric Recaro seats and a more expensive 'Connolly' Leather in beige was also available on standard seats only. The cloth on Recaros was 'Geometric' cloth. The Storms had standard seats with Black leather in the blue cars and beige leather in the green cars. The point about the rear seat is the 16V had a flat bench seat so the material above would never have been on any armrest as far as I know. Even if there was an arm rest i would have plain material on it as per the seat edges. Hope this helps!!!

While we're on the subject, anyone any experience of the difference between Koni shocks/springs and Koni shocks/H&R springs? Larkspeed do a full Koni kit for £380 which effectively makes the springs FOC - are the Koni springs harder or softer is basically what I want to know, thanks.

I got NGK ones from http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk - free postage too - £26ish for 6. however, the garage snapped one in half when fitting and he recommended Bosch ones which have a thicker core. I only do low miles as it's a second car and have always heard good things about NGK so I still reckon thats your best bet.

I've just been through this very same problem and had been told it could be all sorts...changed the leads (a common fault - are they the originals, if so start with these), to no avail, then the coil pack (another common fault but expensive) and that made no difference. The fault was the spark plugs...i had paid for a full 20k service when i bought the car in June which should include plugs. Fact is, the garage didn't change the plugs as i found out last week and a new set was then fitted which has completely cured it!!! So start with plugs, then leads, then coil pack. If you're any where near Oxford I have my old coil pack which you could try and the leads which were fine to use as a process of elimination.

What wheels are they exactly?

As regards the blower only working on full, most likely the resistor has gone - this happened to my 16v years ago. If it's the same there is a small box attached to the blower unit under the passenger side dash. In this you need to replace the resistor (solder in a new one). Can't remember where I got them from but someone here might know...

OK guys BBS looks favourite! What ETA and what size - 16 or 17" also, what width tyres do you guys have?

Thanks Dave, you have a good point about resale...willcheck them out at the weekend.

Hi, want to steam clean the engine on my VR6 but is this advisable? If not how can I clean it - the wires etc are quite oily and I don't think it's ever been touched. If steaming it, any precautions?

Want to upgrade VR6 wheels - 16 or 17"? 7" or 7.5", what ETA? What size tyres on each - eg 205/40 17 or 215/40/17? Also where has a large display (I live in Oxford). Has anyone any thoughts on BK Racing wheels (style 299) - featured in VW Motoring July 04 on a car - look nice, but are they going to last? Other considerations are BBS RXII but these are 3x the price! Any help/thoughts appreciated

vwdubs, i'm with you on that one...morning, noon and night, it's Corrado on the brain!!! Mine has been ill for about a month and i can't sleep wondering whats wrong with it. I think i'm ill as well, must be to be this obsessed with a piece of metal!!! Golddust, your car looks fantastic...would be great to see it, do you local boys meet up at all at some point?

I had a problem with mine - would fluctuate between completely full or completely empty - turned out that the whole pump / sender assembly had dislodged from the fixing in the tank (VR6) so was just swishing about in the fuel. Fixed it back into the lugs but worked once then bust again - now shows 1/3 full when full but does work when getting empty. Easy enough to look at when low on fuel - you can then check wiring etc.

Checked rocker gasket - no obvious big leaks, will check plugs on 1 and 6 later although it was serviced by specialist 1800 miles ago and no reports then of fouled plugs. No probs with coolant or any pressure out of filler cap or dipstick which apparently is a sign. I'm really beginning to think it's the coil pack and may just invest in one to check it out - unless anyone has a spare one I could just try?

Thanks emax, spoke to Stealth today and booked it in but they can't do it till 22nd Nov! No sign of head gasket gone but did see sparks from plug lead in the dark (the front left one). The leads are new but there was a lot of oil round this plug which they said may be the problem - would be caused by leaking rocker cover gasket. I'm going to buy the Hazet tool as Kevhaywire suggested and make sure leads are firmly connected after cleaning plug holes etc. It starts and idles perfectly so no issues there - i'll keep posting progress - any other ideas welcome...

Would this account for high emissions AND rough running/misfiring?

Well I've just tried squirting the coil pack and there's no sparks. I can see a bit of sparking from the 1st cylinder on the left front but the leads are new so why would this be? Perhaps not pushed on far enough? Does any of this explain why it's over-fuelling and running so rich though?

Is that right...mmmm could be the coil pack then but i'm still stuck with poor compression so does it need a head gasket as well? I prob will take to Stealth - bought leads from them last week and they seemed great - will call them tomorrow. Can someone confirm though about compression - would poor spark from faulty coil pack cause low compression?

it's a coil pack one - but this surely doesn't account for low and uneven compression? And i've been told coil packs either work or they don't - is this true?

Guys, I posted last week about misfiring esp when cold. It's getting worse and now misfires all the time but is worse the longer it's left standing. Tried new leads, cleaning ISV but to no avail. Went to a garage today who said the compressions were uneven and low but didn't record what they were (which annoyed me!!) burt also put emissions probe up exhaust and readings as follows - CO % vol 1.67 CO2 % vol 11.33 HC ppm vol 2296 (apparently should be 50ish?) O2 % vol 3.95 They have put some engine decoker in the fuel and said this may cure but otherwise it's head off and lots of dosh. Could it be head gasket - there are no signs of gunky oil or water etc and it doesn't burn oil as such? Or bores ovalised as i've read on here - how do you tell? VAG.com showed no faults - confirmed by 2 separate garages. It's done 118,000 miles and has never had any work according to a very complete history. Am I harming it further by running with a bad misfire - they said to run it for 2-300 miles to let the cleaner work - please help!! :(

Fantastic interior, looks brand new!! Nice wheels too

funbox, can you tell me how you reset the ECU? I've got a really bad misfire at the mo esp at low revs and so might try this first, thanks

My local garage think it's electrical - coil pack is favourite but have got to put on VAG.com to see what that brings up. I don't think it's fuel cos it's perfect at idle and up to about 2000rpm.

Well irrespective of how hard you should rev it when cold, it shouldn't run like a bag of s**t!! I've never changed up below 2000rpm now matter how cold the engine and never had any problems. I'll try the idle valve thing first then (thanks ice white) and let you know how I get on...the only doubt I have is that it idles perfectly and on previous cars the ISV has led to stalling when cold.

Car starts fine and idles fine but mis-fires when touch the throttle and will not rev more than 2-3000 rpm when really cold, either stationary or moving. The longer it has stood the worse it is and the longer it takes to clear. When driving I have to change up gears really quick as it simply will not rev more than 2-3k rpm. Once really warmed up it just has the occasional miss and then is fine. Checked plugs and they are fine. It's a 95 MY VR6 and suggestions have been leads or coil pack - both are expensive so how do I know for sure?

how do you do the red ones, i think they look great!!