oxfordpaul

I paid £17 plus VAT from the dealers before Xmas and got £19 for the old one on Ebay! I was really surprised at how cheap they were but when I asked about the steering wheel that was over £400!!!!

So if you were told 1 hr for the front and 1.5 hrs for the rear you would think that's too much?

So how many hours labour do you think I should be charged? And yes, i just need the gasket (plastic bit round the base)

Hi all, my roof aerial base has rotten but VW only sell the complete unit. Does anyone know of a replacement base that would be suitable? Also does the original aerial wire detach at the base of the amplifier or does the entire lead need to be routed through the car if I bought a new one?

Hi, how long should it take to change the rear engine mount? What additional charge would be for the front one? Would you go for the vibratechnics on the front, OE or GSF?

Mine arrived today - fantastic quick service! They look great but haven't fitted them yet as the car is at the garage having the engine mounts done.

I've also ordered some this week after seeing the pics - I'll post when they arrive too.

I'm not sure what clutch was used but suspect an original VAG one. The problem was exactly the same before the clutch weas replaced so i'm inclined to think it's not the clutch itself. It's going in again at the weekend...

Same here...

It has pin things! 4 plastic lugs I think..

I've just had the bushes and gear selector fork replaced on mine and I have to say it feels loike new now - the best C gearbox I've ever had....ring APS in Brackley and they'll tell you what's needed...

The pump for my VR was £105 plus VAT and I was charged 2 hrs labour (£40 per hr) last week.

I just bought new Corrado ones from dealers - £20 ish each and much better than the originals. I think the springs go weak which is why they don't wipe properly. Lupo ones are an alternative if you don't mind the look of them...

Thanks for the help guys. Where is the splined shaft? Is that in the gearbox? It's going back on Thurs for more investigation. I'm more inclined to think it's something to do with the hydraulic clutch system but don't know much about it.

Well that's what I thought but they seemed a bit sketchy on this. As for engine mounts, I had the one on the gearbox changed but the other 2 remain... has anyone else experienced this?

Is that right, is the rear screen covered then?

Can anyone help with my clutch problem please? I've spent loads of money on a new clutch, linkages, guides and bushes and now have an as-new gear change which is great. However, when the clutch is released the take-up is really sharp, especially in 2nd gear - i.e. it's as if I need to release the pedal really slowly to make it smoother, otherwise it just drops into gear with a thud which isn't normal.... The garage have said they investigate further and mentioned the clutch release bearing but I can't imagine this would have that effect? Is it to do with the hydraulic clutch mechanism? Is it anything to do with the fact that my clutch creaks when I press it in?

Hi, My rear wiper clicks/creaks when it swipes, is this anything to worry about? Is there a simple cure? Also my heated rear window only works on some elements and they appear slightly damaged...I've tried some repair paint from Halfords with no success. Are there any professionals that can repair these?

Just thought I'd let you know of work I've just had done on my VR6. There was a metallic sounding rattle from the near side off the engine which increased with engine speed. This turned out to be the PAS pump. The replacement one from GSF sounds noisier than the orginal but at least it doesn't rattle! I've also had the thermostat, rad thermoswitch and blue and yellow temp senders replaced and it now warms up nicely and sits just a shade below the 90 degree mark. However it still seems to go up to over 100 before the fans cut in - is this right? Also would the garage have to remove or slacken the engine mounts to this work? The reason I ask is there is now a harsh vibration when accelererating hard in higher gears around 3-4000 rpm.... I also held a metal 'clonk' as though something had fallen off around the centre of the dash towards the drivers footwell side...any thoughts?

I went through all this rigmarole with my MAF as it broke when I tried to clean it with alcohol. I researched it well and discovered from someone on here that the cheaper MAF that GSF sell will work on later OBD1 VR's although it's listed for OBD2 ones. It's about £70 from memory and someone on here had fitted it to a 95 Storm with no problems.... I replaced mine with a second hand one which is also fine.

My Mk1 Scirocco GLi, metallic red with full BBS body kit and wheels. Went like stink and looked the dogs. This was in 1990 when I was 18 and I wish I still had it - I haven't seen a MK1 for years with the injection engine (except Storms)

My best car, only wish I had a garage! I have a company Merc C class but it's sooooo boring compared to the Rado and it doesn't even have heated seats!

I must admit I prefer these wheels in 17"s too but hadn't seen them on a C until after I'd bought them. However my previous one had 17's and they made the ride and handling worse so I went for a compromise. I actually like them though as they look like they could have been fitted as OE. By the way, I'm thinking of changing the rear lights too. What colour combo would anyone recommend? I don't like clear but am thinking red/black or all red?

Cheers for the comments guys. I'll try my dark lenses. Ben, do you live on Anglesey? Used to holiday there evy year with the family as a kid in Newborough. Yours looks like Aqua Blue too with the same wheels?

I've had Lupo wipers before but don't like the look of them - a strange quirk of mine I know! I've got some darkened repeeaters but you think clear ones are the way to go? As regards the mats, I put the black ones in if it's wet. Luckily it's a second car so it doesn't get used in the wet anyway if I can help it!