oxfordpaul

Well thanks so much for the help, had ordered the SSK kit but now cancelled and ordered 4xtop adjustable Koni's and H&R springs so they'd better be good!! From Larkspeed who seemed very helpful and good prices.

Oh dear, sounds like they all give a hard ride! Any more for any more?

Hi guys, sorry I know the question has been asked a million times but have e-mailed Koni about the feeling that Vogtland springs with their kits are rubbish. The response is below. We have been selling Koni/Vogtland suspension kits for many years with very few problems, Vogtland are a top quality German spring manufacturer, 2nd in Germany only to Eibach. Koni have indeed launched a new range of suspension kits (the 1130 series) although have not produced one for the Corrado, As Koni do not manufacture springs, they have springs made for them in their own image (i.e Blue with Koni logo) these spring are also made by Vogtland. If for some reason you do not want to go down the route of Vogtland springs there are 2 alternative: 1) Buy 4 Koni sport shocks and match them with a set of Eibach springs. 2) Purchase a Koni coilover suspension kit (£795 inc VAT) Why do you guys not rate them, is it they are too hard, to soft, or that they break or some other reason? What would be the benefit of H&R springs or Eibach springs?

Hi, I want to clean my engine bay and scuttle area in particular. Problem is, can't remove the plastic trim along the bottom of windscreen. It's in 3 bits but feels like i'm gonna break it if i pull too hard - i think it's just clipped in. Ha anyone else done this successfully?

I think it's the engine speed sensor and is located at the front lower right hand side of the engine. AMD replace mine as it was misfiring really badly - perfect now. It cost around £140 so not cheap!

Could be interested too...

Looks great, just wondered about the wheels - from that angle they don't quite look like Storm wheels - have you got a side-on pic? I picked up a set of what I thought were Storm wheels off e-bay but they look a bit different...

I cleaned my headlining with autoglym interior shampoo and it did a great job but recently noticed the black trim across the rear of the headlining which is visible with the tailgate open is 'shrinking' so its pulled away at the edges - not sure if it's connected, wouldn't think so as the Autoglym is just a foam...

Yes, problem now solved i think. I had forgotten to re-attach the multiplug for the heated seats derr!!! When re-connected the indicator thing is ok, maybe they all do this, not sure. However, removed seat agian and there is ANOTHER break in the wiring where it attaches to the heat sensitive resistor. Now, should I get continuity through the resistor or not? Can I just leave this out of the equation and connect the two wires directly? I guess it just prevents overheating? But surely the switch with 5 heat settings must also have some thermostatic control?

No, deffo engine speed sensor, yes the dear one!! But also they said the loom to the sensor had been rubbing on the engine and the wires had been shorting out so i suppose this would explain the intermittent nature or just when cold and damp etc. It's a wierd one but thankfully sorted.

Just thought i'd let you guys know, AMD have finally sorted a really bad misfire on my VR. Changed leads and coilpack to no avail ( although subssequently realised old coil pack was also duff so was adding to the poor running). Was told by one garage the engine was caputt which was just nonsense etc etc. Anyway, hundreds of pounds later, AMD changed the engine speed sensor and it now runs perfect. Thing is the fault was not showing on VAG.com unless it was actually misfiring (which it only did during warm-up??). Is this right or should the fault have been stored? Whatever, it's now all good again.

My driver heated seat has been inop. Found a broken wire and soldered back up. Now it still doesn't work but when the heated seat switch is on AND i put the indicator on either left or right, the relay for the seat clicks in time with the relay for the indicator!!! Is this a bad earth or has the loom chaffed through and they are touching or what? I can't imagine how these two components can be connected?

On mine the drivers door activates the c/locking but the passenger knob just does that door...

I'll have the chance to look under my car over Xmas as my dad has an inspection pit - what do the bushes look like when they're worn and what else should i look out for while underneath?

Wow, how pleased am I, (hopefully!) Just taken my seat pad out to check the seat elements and I found the wire had come away at the solder join at the front of the pad where the wiring loom goes in (between your legs at the front edge of the seat). So, going to buy a soldering iron later and repair it to hopefully have a warm seat for the first time since owning the car in June! Thanks Ice White for the post, will be chuffed if sorted. Only thing is, wanted to replace my seat base foam also but I think it would be impossible to do this without replacing the element as well as it's so well stuck together as you say...then becomes a costly job.

Is that the same car that was with Chelsea car co for £4990 a couple of weeks back? They then put it up to £5,995 but nearly £7k takes the p**s!! No wonder they never rang me back about it at the original price...

Hi, The car was£20729.35, delivery £410, and standard leather inc heated seats £1245.50, totalling £22,384.85 to be exact!

Funny, I've just got mine back today too, had a new thermostat and housing and also a speed sensor which has hopefully cured the misfire I had. Mine also sits at 80 degrees and 96-98 on the oil if it's cruising. what's this about a 2nd stage fan and how do you test it?

The light in the switch shouldn't be lit when the engine is running and the lights are on cos the theory is if it's that dark you can see the lights are on from the dash lights etc. The light is there for sidelights cos it's to alert you the lights are on in conditions when you may not realise it..a bit daft I think but i'm sure that's the reason i've been given.

I did have a look at the base cushion element and it looked absolutely fine - no scorch marks or anything. If the backrest elemnt had a problem would this also prevent the base element from heating up? I thought they were independant of each other. I don't see how I could swap the switches over as they are combined in one block - could shove some wire in between I suppose and try that...any thoughts?

My driver's seat doesn't really heat up - when the switch is on the relay clicks on and off regularly as if it's cutting out too quick. I've swapped the driver/passenger relays and it's the same so it must be the seat or the switch. I think it was Ice white that said it's the heated element in the seat but i've tried prodding around to see if the contact is made to no avail. Question is, if the switch was faulty could it cause the relay to constantly switch off? Can it be tested and if so, how? Don't want to buy a new switch if it's not bust!

Superchrged vr6storm- e-mail sent :wink:

Guys, scanned the image of brochure and saved it to pc but can't seem to attach it - please help!

I'm also looking for new suspension - Ice White Socks has Bilstein shocks and springs and really rates them - the best bit about these is the ride height is perfect IMO - does anyone else have experience of Bilsteins and how they compare to Koni / H&R set-up which I was going to get? I don't want the ride to be mega hard.

Mmmm, not sure, never scanned anything before but will give it a go at the weekend