Kevin Bacon

I haven't seen those before. Neat idea! Unfortunately the thread for the sensor is NPT and it needs to be M10x1. I had a real problem finding a Tee that was M10 male and 2 x M10 female. I think there's one on ebay somewhere, but yep, it's the tee off that's messing with the readings I think. The other problem with some of the longer Ts is the sensor fouls the crack pipe, so you have to undo the filter housing and tilt it forward. Not something you want to do after the engine's in and the bumper/slam panel are back on! Another option would be to screw the sensor directly into the oil filter housing's top port (as per OE Corrado) and T off the front (plugged by default) port for the 2 oil pressure senders.

It goes into the oil filter housing with a tee off. I'm not convinced that's any good though to be honest as I was getting some crazy low oil temps, even with a new sensor. If I did it again, I would tap the sump (M10x1) round the back away from the air flow instead.

It won't be long before new cars come fitted with cameras as standard, or insurance companies insist on them. It's the way things are going. It's often joked that if the steering wheel had a spike in the middle of it, people would drive better. Cameras are the next best thing. Finally, dumb arses will get caught texting and applying make-up on camera and get their licenses taken away.

Completely different plugs. There's something weird about the MK5 pedal. I think it only works with a MK5 throttle / ECU. I know you can use a MK5 throttle in a MK4 tho!

VR6 Turbo /thread :)

It might be the cam trigger wheel. Yours looks like it's seen better days. Either that or some wiring has been disturbed. yours looked to have jumped a tooth at some point. A classic symptom of chains worn to that extent! 177k is good going on the originals though! Once the ECU sees the cam again and with the correct timing, it should feel really good :d Did you check the intermediate shaft timing mark? Good skills! I like seeing naked VR6 pics!

It's certainly an intriguing and clever engine! I prefer the 24V though as it's a master peice of engineering and smoother, and torquier.

Only the 24Vs have flush piston crowns because the head has combustion chambers. The 12V has a flat head with pocketed pistons instead, which aren't flush, so the squish area is triangular. 12V piston - 24V piston - 12V block - 24V Block -

And the 24V engines - http://sandbox.enjoybeing.net/veedub/vw_vr6_self_study.pdf

/\ For good reason ;)

The main reason for going forged is because the stock pistons ring lands easily weaken with boost (they are 15+ yrs old after all), and can collapse. Seen it happen at 450hp and lower. Certainly 500hp and you're on borrowed time. Not if, but when. I would say 350hp for long term durability and the clutch and gearbox are happy with that also. 400 and above, definitely forged if you want peace of mind.

No you're not stupid and it's the first time this has been asked on here! The crank is offset to reduce side loadings, but I can't remember by how much. It's in one of the VW white papers (self study) circulating the internet, but I can never remember where. The R32 and R36 self studies are worth a read too.

Correct! These are the conditions where the lambda is ignored:- During cranking / Startup (hot and cold) During warmup (to 70 deg C water temp) 3/4 throttle and above 4000rpm.

It certainly does and yep, Tickler is bloody tasty!

Christ, it was 10 years ago when we first met! (in the Sainsburys car park) :camp: It would have been the 10th anniversary of Corrado ownership on Valentine's day this year, but she had to make way for a younger model :D

Funnily enough, I'm there this Saturday :D Yeah, using a MAF from the other storms is a good plan. Vince would have already thought of that though, so maybe they're not compatible as the CP ECU is kind of OBD1.1 service pack 3, and not the full OBD2.

If the head is coming off, it makes sense to plonk a rebuilt one back down onto the block again! The VR feels refreshed after a head rebuild. The fully sealed valves restore lost bottom end torque and throttle response. Yeah, it's 20 head bolts and the three layer gasket is about £60 IIRC. Yup, digging the corrosion out of the head pits (happened because of the G10/11 shennanigans) and then filling with chemical metal before skimming is standard practice these days.

/\ That happened to Heresites a few years ago and it put a chuffing great dent in his bonnet.

Get yourself some decent chemical metal as well. The head will undoubtedly be pitted if it's still on the original gasket.

Lol, cheers David / Goldfinger! I still haven't got Broadband at my new address (nearly a month after moving in, cheers BT!) otherwise I'd have looked at home :D What a complete berk!

A summary for the benefit of those who are at work? It's blocked for me due to 'malicious' content somewhere on the site.

Yep. Shame the deals are on the hatchback only, which I hate. I'll just wait for 1Ms to come down in price instead :D

Is that the 8 speed auto flavour? Thought about getting one (based on Chris Harris video reviews and forum hype) because BMW were doing cracking PCP deals on them, but decided against it in the end. Didn't want to get tied into finance on a car.

Top work! Did you get it resprayed or just tidy it up with rattle cans and a polisher?

Have to agree with that assesment. They do the job but they're not in the same league as professional grade workshop cabinets. They're plenty good enought 99% of DIY enthusiasts :D