Kevin Bacon

You are wrong. Kev

Another thing you can try to reduce the vibration in the car is to relieve the tension from the engine mounts. Undo each mount's top bolt. Run the engine for a few seconds and then retighten the bolts. Kev

Have you checked the carbon canister's purge control valve (PCV)? It sits above plug number 1 and has a squishy 7mm 'S' shaped hose. This sometimes goes hard and cracks due to the heat from the exhaust manifold. Quite common. I would recommend checking all the hoses and the inlet manifold gaskets. Changing the idle valve doesn't always cure rough idling, so make sure the inlet side of things is OK, then go from there. Cheers Kev

Rams, the VR6 only needs 3.5 to 4 bar, which the standard one gives, so anything more would produce and over-rich mixture and the engine will run badly. Noisy pumps don't always mean bad news but it's generally a sign of vane and motor commutator wear. In-tank pumps rely on the fuel as lubrication and cooling, so it only takes running the pump dry a few times to start wearing it out. I wonder if the previous owner did that?? I shall see what happens when we do a pressure test at Stealth in August! Cheers Kev

John, what is the bore diameter of the 'large bore' system? 2.5"? I think a Supersprint equal length 6-1 manifold in conjunction with a Schrick manifold (also equal length runners) would give excellent results with your big-bore exhaust? Your thoughts? Kev

Agreed with John, very common. Another VR achilles heel is the thermostat housing, also common for weeping. A top-tip for coolant refills is to fill via the radiator top hose. This method forces air out of the galleries via the expansion tank from the bottom up. If you fill from the expansion tank, you introduce air and therefore increase the chance of an airlock. Cheers Kev

I've put my ear on the rear cover plate and I can hear it groaning and grinding, so it's not happy. G&S do the pump for £89+VAT, so it's not particularly expensive. I'll replace it as a matter of course. Thanks for the replies chaps. Kev

Good, that's all I need to know. It's definitely on it's way out then. Thanks. It's annoying as I've had loads VWs over a 13 year driving career and never have replaced a pump. Also annoying is the fact the car has only done 78K. First time for everything I guess! Cheers Kev

I've recently noticed my pump is getting really noisy, especially when the tank is low and there is no fuel to absorb the noise. It's a kind of constant and loudish whine. Only does it when the engine is hot though. I've spoken to one or two folks about it already and the general consensus is that mileage and age aren't relevant, if it's dying, it's dying and the only way to be sure is to run the engine up to full revs on the dyno and see if the pump sustains 4 bar across the range. Stealth will be doing this in August. I replace the fuel filter a month ago, so it's not straining agains that and the injectors are OK, I think! I just need to know if anyone else with a VR6 can hear their fuel pump at all? If not, then I'll get Vince to get a pump in for me. Cheers Kev

OK, I think the thread is now dead! Hope you get your car sorted. Forums can bite you in the bum sometimes though as I got in trouble at work for saying something on one of their unmoderated 'public' notes discussion databases! It was an innocent comment taken completely the wrong way! Just trying to say be careful what you type! End of..... Cheers Kev

I always loosen the pulley bolts BEFORE taking the belt off. I also put loads of tension on it too, temporarily. Kev

This a real shame :( From a neutral perspective, Banaman paid good money for a service and didn't get the results he hoped for. I can totally understand that as I've been in that situation countless times myself, but I don't think it's fair to try and disgrace John in this way. The issue is between client and vendor and it's not fair to get our Corrado community involved by association. Public humiliation can be very damaging for a small business. Large companies have legal departments and customer service teams to deal with dissatisfied customers and do it daily, but John is trying to build a reputation and this won't have helped. I hope the outcome of this is positive, for both parties. Cheers Kev

Evostik Solvent (called glue remover for legal reasons) or Cellulose thinners will remove it without damaging the plastic. It's cheaper than proprietary removers too. So long as the light emitted is orange and brighter than the tail lights, you'll be OK. If they flash red, then it will fail. Kev

That's the idle valve's purge tank. Try spraying some carb cleaner around it when the engine is running. Any change in engine note denotes a leak. Kev

I thought the VR6 had a 23mm Master Cylinder? Kev

They're all the same, oil impregnated cotton gauze. Minimal, if any, difference between them. Kev

Stealth tend to stick to what they know, which is not to say they don't like alternatives. I've known Vince for years and he won't sell me anything that he thinks I won't like or won't make a difference. I value his honesty. Don't forget they are also a business and if suppliers f#ck them about, they won't sell their products, simple as that. Maybe if I take a Miltek up to him, he might add them to his list!! Kev

Oh it's a RHD Roddy mate.....that is the car I was telling you about that flashed a 911 out of the way, 4 up!! Check that torque figure.....and that's with small boost! Kev

John You can supply the Miltek can you? Where are you based? Prices etc? My cat heatshield is rattling when cold. Do you know how to get round that one? I'm going to Stealth on August 15th so they could fit that whilst I'm there. Do you have any tailpipes the same as stock? I don't like monster pipes. Cheers Kev

You just get a sheet of grey foam and that's it. You have to cut it to shape and supply your own adhesive! I've found it's great stuff if you've got the time and patience and less fiddly than sheets of thin plastic. It also has sound absorbing qualities too. Kev

Check out this VR6 turbo.....one of only a handful in the UK. http://www.stealthracing.co.uk/sr_pvr6.html Kev

LOL, Mike you are kidding me??? All the while I thought my motor was screwed, it was down to the cover thingy being open! You absolute genius! I guess we all learn the hard way :x Thank the lord for this forum!! I'll try that tomorrow but I've kind of become accustomed to the manual cranking, LOL! Thanks again.

I find using a hex head in a socket wrench plus a sharp blow with a hammer is enough to free them off. The resultant 'shock' releases them like an impact driver and providing the Hulk hasn't done them up, they should free off. Make sure the hex head is well and truly in the bolt otherwise you'll round them off very easily. Kev

Sure thing Boss.... Picture A shows the chrome peice I described with some larger hosing on the end. What happens is the cable guide goes back, strikes the chrome moulding in the pic, lifts the wheel out of the detent and then slides the roof back. Some people find that the wheel goes too deep into the detent and the roof just will not slide at all. Using the bigger rubber piece stops the wheel going too deep into the detent. Hope that makes sense! Picture B shows the felt I used to stop vibrations and scratching. Picture C shows the little arm that lifts the sunroof liner with the panel in tilt mode! Picture D shows the little hole I drilled for the motor crank so I can use the roof manually! Cheers Kev

VAG ones are inflexible and it's usually those type that cause problems. Just stick a multimeter on the leads, if each one reads 6Kohms, they're fine. I've got some used VAG ones if you want them though and they're OK. Nology hotwires are good but they're expensive and HUGE! Best partnered with their mega coil. I would only really use them on forced induction engines anyway, where spark strength is critical, i.e you don't want a weak spark being 'blown' out by the boosted air/fuel! Kev