stevemac

If necessary, get some thicker hub-centric spacers & have them shaved down

the left wheel would have more power fed to it, therefore pushing the car over to the opposite side..

Without driving your car, it's difficult to say. "Dirty" pads will make the brakes much less effective & consequently you'll need to apply more pressure to the pedal to make them work. Drilled discs are for looks only - I've tried both drilled & standard. There's no difference to the efficiency of the brakes at all. Grooved discs are very good though - they keep the pads clean & stop anything impregnating into the pad lining.

khurrado, So far as I'm aware - we don't stock the bolts.

Blown, Ian's done a few internal mods too.. :wink:

Diff unit feeds power to the wheel which is easiest to turn - this is the reason why cars get stuck in the snow. The wheel with less resistance gets more of the power.

VW recommended pressure for G60 front wheels (cold) is 38-41psi (2.6-2.8bar)... :shock:

billinjahg60, Power follows the course of least resistance. If the RH CV joint was very badly worn, this joint would be more difficult to turn & the car would pull to the right as more power would be fed to the LHF wheel.

Could be a sticking brake caliper or "clonking" would suggest a worn CV joint.

You'll need to seek advice from a body repair centre to make sure the chassis is straight. If your engine doesn't sit straight it could be a badly fitted or damaged engine mount or bent x-member or even bent chassis leg. Get your replacement bolts from VW - they're cheap enough. The suspension will need 4-wheel aligning to correct the camber. Do not do this until the other problems are completely sorted.

Drilled Zimmermanns are slightly more expensive tho... :( Lee - give me a shout if you need the bearings, we keep 2 different qualities under different part numbers.

matt_corradovr6, You'll be able to restore your old pads back to full functionality. Just remove them from the caliper & rub the lining with emery cloth. Brake dust & corrosion will have impregnated itself into the pad lining. :wink:

I usually tighten them as tight as I can with a 2ft bar.... :mrgreen: Never had any come loose.........yet !

Check you power feed & earth to & from the starter. Could be a short circuit....

I hated VW's and FWD cars for as long as I can remember. I ended up buying a Corrado through circumstance & because I'd heard they handle very well. Don't get me wrong - I love my G60 but I still think that a RWD Corrado would have been a much better car... :mrgreen: Kev started the slogan thing so here's mine - front wheels are for steering, rear wheels are for driving.

I run my G60 (205/40WR17 Eagle F1's) at 42psi front & 36psi rear. Any lower & my rims start to hit the road... :( Tyre wear is even too... :shock:

Henny, I would appreciate some help - if you have time ? I'm a kind of "bottom end virgin"..lol I've done head work before & big end bearings too. I'm a little out of my depth with honing crankcases & changing piston rings. I was going to leave the bottom end until after the summer & strip it completely in the autumn. I assume I'd need to remove the crankshaft & take the pistons out from underneath ? Or could I scrape the coke off & remove the pistons from the top ? What "oversized" piston rings will I need to get ?

New top end. :wink: Running out of spare cash so I'm gonna leave the bottom end as it is. I've already changed the B/E bearings. I'll only be doing approx 5k before next winter when I'll be taking the whole engine out for a rebore, new pistons, main bearings, etc.

That's because we don't stock them !! We are currently putting them into our range, they'll be cheaper than VW & available in a month or so.

goodridge, Inside the throttle body there are 2 butterfly valves which allow air into the inlet manifold - controlled by the throttle cable. There is a fair amount of alloy around & in between these valves that restricts air flow. This excess alloy is removed - I'm not sure if Daz fitted larger butterfly valves or not though ? Here's a piccy of my standard throttle body -

Coke Cola works wonders on old copper coins - makes me wonder what it does to the inside of my stomach !!

Cheers for your input Mike.. .. :lol:

potatonet, You'll need a whole new distributor - the sensors aren't available seperately. We keep Bosch ones in stock but I'm not sure about shipping to the states. Nor am I sure that the US spec G60's use the same distributor as the UK spec ones ?

Hoping to have the engine rebuilt over the next couple of weeks. Still waiting for my new front mount intercooler from Behr. I need to get the charger & throttle body down to g-werks fairly soon too. Reallistically, it's gonna be April before it's fully mobile again.

I've got some crankcase work pencilled in for next winter - I've been considering my options & I think I'm just gonna leave it as it is until then.