stevemac

This thread has made interesting reading....... I am a member of the CCGB & will be for the duration of my Corrado ownership. It is an organisation which must continue. As most of us are aware, there have been a few "bad eggs" in the basket over recent times & possibly still are.. :shock: As for the Sprinter - I haven't recieved one in 12 months !! However, I am aware of the reasons & do not hold this against the CCGB. I think the upcoming AGM will be very interesting & I strongly urge all members to attend. Non members can join on the day, so if you're not yet a member but would like to be - come along to the AGM. Details - http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20845 It's very easy to complain & whinge about what the club is or isn't doing. What are the complainants going to do about it - will they stand to be elected to the committee so that they can attemp to improve things ?? Will they contribute to the content of the Sprinter ?? Or will they continue letting somebody else do all the work so that they can remain in their "comfort zone" & continue to moan, whinge or pick fault?

Not so far as I'm aware - head office have not & will not grant discount to any forums. They will only grant discount to a few specific owners clubs.

Ahh - found a piccy Upside down though .. :oops:

Is it not a cam which operates the switches ? Maybe you have a weak return spring ? Or the butterfly inside the throttle body is stiff/jammed ? Left mine at g-werks yesterday for some porting work - so I can't have a look to be certain. Do you have any pictures ?

With regard to your water leak - I suspect the head gasket had already gone. Should be okay to drive it, but not too far - it is progressively getting worse.

It must have known it was gonna be evicted soon.... :wink:

Like I said - flywheel bhp is just for people "bigging it up" in the pub. The only power that you feel on the road is what you have at the wheels - that's all I'm interested in & that's all the r/r can measure accurately. I don't want a car that sounds fast on paper - I want one that is fast on the road. :rambo:

Why not just pay attention to what you have at the wheels - that's what matters. Use of transmission loss estimations to get a "at the flywheel" bhp are always just that - estimations. Bhp at the wheels is what matters in the real world - bhp at the flywheel is just "pub talk".

dubmad, Really depends how you drive the car - most rebuilders will recommend that the seals are changed every 20k & full rebuild every 40k.

Is the "new" spoiler controller definitely a good one ? Here's what I would do - remove the plastic covering inside the tailgate, sit somebody in the boot area with a multimeter/circuit tester, go for a drive down the road. Check the relevant wire/s for curent at speeds in excess of 60mph. This will tell you if you have a problem with the spoiler unit in the tailgate or in the wiring before the power gets there. Some spoilers raise at different speeds - this is denoted by a resistor fitted somewhere in the electrical system, possibly inside the spoiler controller. Different resistor values raise the spoiler at different road speeds. For example - European spec Corrado spoilers raise at approx 80mph. Some UK spec Corrados also arrived with 80mph spoilers - the VW dealers in this country should have changed the resistor to one that enabled the spoiler to raise at 45mph before the cars were sold. AFAIK - this was a VW recall. If yours has a badly soldered resistor or dry joint - this may be the problem.

dosnt look too bad to me,or is it diffarent in the flesh? can still see the honing/hatching 8) piston top looks pretty well carbonned up but its not so bad. just clean it up with petrol and a scraper/scotch pad. :D neil. It's not even as bad as it looks in the picture. Still gonna have to take the pistons out though. 4 of the B/E bolts are 3mm longer than the rest so I'm gonna replace all 8. Need the con-rods out to remove the bolts though. May as well take the opportunity to "weight match" the rods while they're out.. :D I don't want to do much to the bottom end at the moment - in the Autumn, the crankcase is getting re-borred, new pistons & new crank.

For 2k, you seem to have done very well.. :D

Damn - I knew I should have got there a bit earlier.. :lol:

Looks like a bargain to me Andy.

Sounds like a bargain to me.. (added the weblink to my favourites. :D )

Cheers Furki, good to see you too - I've located another charger already.. :D

OMG - took my charger to g-werks today. Looks like the internal displacer is fcuked.. :cry: New charger on the way.. :D I'll be declaring myself bankrupt before April at this rate... :lol:

ovalthemoon, Get your bottom end checked at the same time - I would reccommend that the minimum you have done to it is to replace the Big End bearings. You may even get unlucky & have similar bottom end trouble to me. You won't know until the head comes off. If your putting more horses into the engine, it will highlight any bottom end weaknesses very quickly. :wink:

4stud, They're dead easy to make - you just need a Jigsaw, No-Nails, 3M spray adhesive & some acoustic matting. B&Q will even cut the MDF to size for you - you'll just need the Jigsaw to shape it slightly. Mine took around 2 hours to complete !!

jboyslick, CV joints are only fitted to the front - knocking on the rear will be something different. Possibly exhaust knocking on rear axle or rear shocker mountings.

Jeez - this thread's been busy today .... :shock:

Fast road pads :- with ABS - 64604F £32.50 + vat - Pagid with ABS - 64604FG £26.00 + VAT - EBC Greenstuff without ABS - 64601F £25.00 + vat - Pagid without ABS - 64601FG £26.00 + vat - EBC Greenstuff

Damage sounds a little worse than I'd imagined.. :( Personally, I'd go for option 2. Advantage: you'll have more power & you know the history of all parts that you'll be using. Disadvantage - finding some pistons - I'll send you a PM. :wink:

You'll need a very thin spanner for seperating the caliper & carrier - can't remember the size though. The thin spanner is required for a slightly hidden bolt head - next to the rubber gaitor on the upper & lower extremes of the caliper body. AFAIK - torque wrench is only needed if you're removing the caliper carrier - not necessary just to change the pads. Here's a picture of the G60 setup -