stevemac

Ryan S, Whichever G60 that you buy - budget approx 450 for getting the charger rebuilt. I would get the charger done straight away - regardless of how much the car costs. Just because some G60's cost more than others is no reflection on the supercharger condition. Unless the suspension has been renewed within the last 5 years or so, it is likely to be worn. New bush kits are cheap enough - we sell full poly bush kits for around £50'ish. They're just as good as the more expensive ones - I've fitted full kits onto 2 G60's now & I can fully recommend them. Shock absorbers aren't too expensive either. Main things to watch for are the potentially expensive ones - unexplained engine noises, dodgy exhaust & bad bodywork are the most important. Look at the brakes too - these also may need replacing. Again, that's down to each individual car & not usually reflected in the purchase price. Oil leaks are usually cheap to fix, but sometimes expensive depending on exactly what's leaking. HTH

John Mitchell - JMR Racing (16VG60) here on the forum could advise you better. He sorted out the bottom end of Ian's 1.9'ish G60 (Henny) Or you could do what I'm doing - concentrate most of the work on the top-end.. :wink:

The sensor in the header tank is purely a low level sensor. When it thinks the coolant is too low - the light comes on. It's possible that you have a short circuit in the wiring somewhere ?

The whole idea of having a bearing in the top mount is because it's supposed to turn......................... I constructed mine off the vehicle - including clamping the bearing to the top of the strut. The clamp nuts on the top of my struts are more narrow than the one shown in the picture. The strut assy & bearing are not attached to the top mount by anything other than gravity. There is a large'ish plate which then attaches to the top of the strut to stop the leg assy falling out of the mounting when the car is jacked up - for example, when changing a wheel.

The nut shown looks too big to me - the nut's on my struts are much narrower & clamp onto the bearing only. There's a seperate plate which then attatches over the top to stop the strut assy from falling out of the mount when the car is jacked up. I have VR top mounts BTW........ :roll:

Oil in your cylinder can only come from 2 places :- 1. knackered headgasket 2. damaged crankcase breather causing excess pressure & forcing oil in through the inlet system. I would favour the second problem as the most likely. Check your inlet manifold for oil & start checking your breather pipes.. :wink: Don't attempt to start the engine anymore until you find the source of the oil - you run the risk of hydraulic-locking the engine & bending/breaking con-rods, etc.

please note any mods who do more than 150 miles per month will have their cars confiscated by me and replaced by puegot's I get to keep mine then.. :lol: It's not doing any miles at all at the mo.. :D

Jstar, - Welcome to the forum.. 8)

:shock:

:lol: :lol:

Yeah - nothing to do with the fact that the Scirocco interior was designed before the Corrado then......... :roll:

Because depending on how full it is - it may not be a good idea to drive the car anywhere... :roll:

For the best ride & handling - set it so that the top of the wheelarches are approx 1" above the tyres.

Yeah - definite pile of poo......... :lol: :lol:

You can have the benefit of my 15 years in the motor trade - do not use oil additives If they were any good, the oil manufacturers would already be putting them in the oil.... :wink: Definitely do not use engine flush - this causes no end of problems on older cars.

If your oil is "well over max" I don't think driving the car at all is a good idea... :( This excess oil will increase your engine oil pressure & you risk either blowing an oil seal or a gasket - not usually cheap to replace...........

The speedo's tend to slightly over-estimate road speed. At 40mph it will be fairly accurate. Speedo accuracy is also affected by the wheel diameter that you have. Judging your speed by looking at the boot spoiler isn't the best way to keep a clean licence......... :roll: The road speed at which the spoiler raises is slightly different on each Corrado & is set by the value of a resistor in the spoiler control unit. The resistance value of the resistor denotes the road speed at which the spoiler rises.. :wink: Your car is likely to have been imported with a spoiler which would rise at 80mph - as per european spec. The resistors on the early cars were changed at the supplying dealers so that the spoilers rise at a lower (legal) speed.

Apparently it came with a free bottle of "blue stratos" .............. :lol: :lol:

One of my old mates in Leeds has 2 HF Integrale's - 1 standard HF Integrale & 1 Evo Integrale - both red........ :D

Sorry, can't help you with personal issues on the Corrado forum :lol: :lol: :lol:

They look a bit cleaner than mine, Daz.......... :D thats because it hasn't been down to us... :lol:[/quote:87137] Will be on it's way to you - just as soon as I get some spare cash (payday in Jan.. :( )

They look a bit cleaner than mine, Daz.......... :D

My Magnex is quiet as a mouse .... :( Gonna get something a bit more noisy before I put it back on the road, in the spring..... :mrgreen:

thorpey, Fully synthetic oil is not necessary or even better that the semi synth that's supposed to be in there.. :wink: Oil filter should be either genuine VW, Mann or Knecht (both make or have made them as OE suppliers). Oil should be either 10w40 or 15w40 - preferably Synta Silver semi synth.