stevemac
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Content Count
3,397 -
Joined
Everything posted by stevemac
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Ford & Vauxhall also use the same sequence..
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Just to clarify, guys (cars with a single switch) :- 1st position switches on the FRONT foglights 2nd position then switches the REAR ones on too This is the way that they were wired at the factory & also the same way that is used by most manufacturers. :wink:
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What a relief............ :D
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Not too much longer to go - eh Kev.... :lol: :lol:
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I'm not saying they're no good, what I'm saying is that they may be made by a different manufacturer than what's available now.
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Sorry to upset the apple-cart guy's but ATE don't make brakepads. They're made elsewhere & re-boxed as ATE.. :shock: Pagid would be a far better choice, as they do make their own pads & are also OE suppliers.
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Nice to be able to see in the rain again............... :D
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I'm doing mine at the mo..... :D You're right Ian - there's a load of excess alloy in there. :wink:
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Welcome to the forum, Olly........ 8)
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Gonna be spring b4 I get there.... :(
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lower ball joint bolt....does it need a good belt?
stevemac replied to dubweiser's topic in Drivetrain
Renew the ball joints while you have the thing in bits - they're very likely to be knackered. dubweiser - open up the ball joint bolt housing with a claw hammer - the bolt should come out a little easier. :wink: -
Jeremy's 928 was a real shed.... :lol: :lol:
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The "servo" was the size of an ashtray though... :(
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lower ball joint bolt....does it need a good belt?
stevemac replied to dubweiser's topic in Drivetrain
I just had to belt fcuk out of my ball joints when I did them.. :rambo: -
I think there'll be a few more swear words before it's off then. My standard pulley was a real pain to get off. I ended up using an oil filter wrench to hold the pulley, while I unscrewed the centre bolt.
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Belt tensioner doesn't look too clever either.. :(
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Took mine off today.. :D There's 4 allen screws at the air filter end, the 2 at the back - in your picture. There's also the hex bolt just underneath the 2 rear allen screws in your picture. Also be sure to detatch the oil feed & return pipes. The charger will then work lose & pull out from the pass side. The pulley will pass through the large alloy bracket on the drivers side.. :wink:
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I'll have to watch that.. :D
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I nearly killed myself in one of those a few years ago - it was an F reg & the brakes were a total waste of time.
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Laser alignment cost me £80 but that also included fitting a OSF tie rod - I bent my old one.. :mad: Can't really tell if the poly bushes made it stiffer or not - my whole suspension's lower & stiffer than standard. Rear wheel bearings are a bit of a pain to do, but not very difficult.
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I got sick of trying to find out what was wrong with mine & replaced the whole lot (car had done 97k). Both front shockers Both top mounts Both front wheel bearings Both ball joints Both front wishbones Both inner & both outer CV joints Ohh - I also fitted a full poly bush kit while I had the thing apart. :wink: Had it "laser 4-wheel aligned" & it handles like a new car now.
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Hopefully that will be the problem - short circuit will be more difficult to find & may require a multimeter to test the circuits.. :shock:
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Still seek legal advice - first 1/2 hour is usually free & will give you some options.. :wink:
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Like I said - I think that's where it is. I can't check mine to see, as my car's got no engine & in a garage with not enough room to open the doors.. :cry: Somebody else on here should be able to confirm that's where it is.
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Sounds like you may have a "short circuit" somewhere. There is also a electric window control unit - from memory, just behind the OSR side panel next to the rear seat. :wink: You should be able to hear it "click" if you try to close a window that's already shut. DO NOT increase the size of the fuse in an attempt to stop it from blowing - you then run the risk of an electrical fire.. :shock: