stevemac

Fuse arrangement - G60 ONLY - some VR6 fuses have different amp ratings!! according to the numbers on fuse panel from left to right: Amp. 1 Headlight, low beam, left 10 2 Headlight, low beam, right 10 3 Instrument panel lights, license plate lights 10 4 Rear window wiper, sunroof 15 5 Wiper/washer, front; rear window washer 15 6 Fresh air blower, A/C 20 7 Tail lights, side marker light, right 10 8 Tail lights, side marker light, left 10 9 Rear window defogger, heated mirrors 20 10 Fog lights 15 11 Headlight, high beam, left high beam indicator light 10 12 Headlight, high beam, right 10 13 Horn, radiator cooling fan run-on 10 14 Back-up lights, heated windshield washer nozzles, power mirrors 10 15 Electronic ignition, idle stabilizer, deceleration fuel shut off 10 16 Dash warning/indicator lights, glove box light, multi-function indicator, cassette storage light, rear spoiler control unit 15 17 Emergency flasher switch, turn signals 10 18 Fuel pump, oxygen sensor 20 19 Radiator cooling fan, A/C 30 20 Brake lights, cruise control 10 21 Interior lights, luggage compartment light, cigarette lighter, digital clock, rear spoiler adjustment, engine diagnostic, central locking, multi-function indicator 15 22 Radio 10 Relay location on fuse/relay panel 1 - A/C relay 2 - Rear window wiper/washer relay (72)* 3 - Digifant control unit relay (32)* 4 - Load reduction relay (18)* 5 - Open 6 - Emergency flasher/turn signal relay (21)* 7 - Open 8 - Intermittent wiper/washer relay (19)* 9 Seat belt warning system control unit (4)* 10 - Fog light relay (53)* 11 - Horn relay (53)* 12 - Fuel pump relay (80)* Separate relays above fuse/relay panel 13 - ABS hydraulic pump relay 14 - ABS relay 15 - Radiator cooling fan after run control unit (31) * 16 - Fuel pump after run control unit (90)* 17 - Heated seat relay, driver 18 - Heated seat relay, passenger 19 - ABS hydraulic pump fuse 20 - ABS valves fuse 21 - Power window fuse 22 - ABS values fuse 23 - Automatic shoulder belt system fuse, S51 (USA only) 24 - Open * Numbers in parentheses indicate production control number stamped on relay housing.

US spec VR6 (2.8 AAA engine) Diagrams may differ slightly from UK spec 2.9 VR6

Connections and plugs on fuse/relay panel - US Spec VR6 A1 - Headlight wiring harness (yellow), eight point A2 - Headlight wiring harness (yellow), eight point B - Open C - Headlight wiring harness (yellow), eight point D - Optional equipment wiring harness (green), twelve point E - Instrument wiring harness (green), five point F - Engine compartment wiring harness, right (white), ten point G1 - Engine compartment wiring harness, right (white), twelve point G2 - Engine compartment wiring harness, right (white), twelve point H1 - Steering column switch wiring harness (red), ten point H2 - Steering column switch wiring harness (red), eight point J - Steering column switch wiring harness (red), ten point K - Rear wiring harness (black), twelve point L - Rear wiring harness (black), eight point M - Rear wiring harness (black), six point N - A/C wiring harness (green), six point P - Rear window defroster wiring harness (blue), ten point Q - Instrument wiring harness (blue), six point R - Light switch wiring harness (blue), ten point S - Engine compartment wiring harness, right (white), five point T - Connector (green), two point U1 - Instrument cluster wiring harness (blue), fourteen point U2 - Instrument cluster wiring harness (blue), fourteen point V - Multi-function indicator wiring harness (green), four point W - Connector (green), six point X - Warning lamp wiring harness (green), eight point Y - Four single connectors, terminal 30 Z1 - Single connector Z2 - Single connector, terminal 31 30 - Single connector, terminal 30 30B - Single connector 31 - Single connector, terminal 31 (not shown)

No cable - fully electronic speedo Vacuum pipe is not present on VR6 models :lol: :lol: Depends totally on condition, mileage, service history, etc. As a guide G60's usually fetch between £2000 - £4000. Maybe as much as £5000 for a perfect, extremely low mileage car.

Mk1GLS, Mike, I've just realised who you are - did you get your running problems & chip sorted ?? I've moved from Leeds to Birmingham since we last spoke. Welcome to the forum m8 8)

Not sure but I've altered the title of this thread to maybe get a few answers :wink:

Here's 1 for a US spec VR6 (2.8 AAA engine) - don't have any diagrams for the 2.9 UK spec version

G60 diagram

U guys want wiring diagrams ??

Works great on a G60 - not much use on a 1.8-16v though :(

On a 1.8-16v there are no probes to remove or disconnect. This is a completely different injection system to the G60.

Try a set of "Brembo Max" grooved discs - tend to wear better than the Zimmerman drilled jobbies :wink:

Wish I'd have had a go - on that scale, mine would have been hitting 300 bhp !!!

LOL - I was a bit slow there :drinking:

That could've been a costly typo :lol: I doubt it Tom, K-Jetronic was fitted to a fair amount of Mercs during the '80s & 90's. There's not a lot you can do to tune it besides adjusting a few settings - maybe squeeze another 5 bhp or so if your lucky. Any more power than that would need an amount of engine work & some replacement parts (or an inaccurate rolling road !! ). Like flusted says - it's more a case of driveability than paper power thats important.

Not with K-Jetronic mechanical injection & no extras they can't. If that's independantly verified - I'l eat my shirt at the next R/R day !!

Your local engineering/fabrications company will sell you as much as you need - usually fairly cheaply too. Check the yellow pages. Best to buy from the smaller companies as the larger ones tend to be interested in contract work only. For a small cost they will usually bend or weld it to shape for you too.

Not something I've ever had to do but I'm sure someone else will reply with some guidance for you.

If your on 15" wheels get some Pirelli P6000 - excellent grip & not too expensive.

Your gear change cables appear to be out of adjustment.

I'm with you there Paul. Stainless tubes will retain too much heat & cancel out the effect of the intercooler. Highly polished aluminum will retain much less heat & the mirror surface will reflect most of the heat from the engine bay. Far better choice IMO.

potatonet, - your cooling system should not develop any air pockets, unless your coolant level is dangerously low. Drain the cooling system & re-fill it with a mixture of G12+ & water, through the top hose. Detach the top hose from your radiator & fill the system from there. If you then develop "air pockets", I suggest you have the system pressure tested. G12+ is the ONLY antifreeze that you should be using. As well as stopping internal engine corrosion, it also raises the coolant boiling point. I suspect that your car may have used the wrong coolant at some time in the past, hence the sludge that you now have.

Slightly incorrect - you WILL need to remove the steering/charger belt pulley - secured by 4 allen screws. DO NOT unscrew the centre crankshaft sprocket bolt. Remove the waterpump pulley to facilitate removal of the bottom plastic cambelt cover. If you have never changed a cambelt before - I strongly suggest that u let a proffesional do the work for you. I have replaced many timing belts over the years & the G60 is certainly not one of the easiest to do. You may also be in the unfortunate position of the distributor being replaced in the wrong position at some point in the car's past - like mine. Consequently my timing marks do not line up at all !!

potatonet, - this thread is for common water leak locations. I suggest that you re-post the above in your existing thread.

Nice one Pablo - car looks the business 8) You want this thread moving to the "members gallery" section ?