stevemac

Some scrappies buy & sell (allegedly) roadworthy cars.

MNuTz, - welcome to the forum m8 May be helpful if you stick your location into your profile. If the car's near Birmingham I'll come & have a look for you - otherwise check this http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11067 maybe somebody else would be able to have a quick look for you. Realistically, at that price, the charger is likely to be fooked. Budget at least £500 to have that done & maybe another £500 for a full service + other urgent bits & pieces. DO NOT BUY without having a HPI check done - car could have a bad history.

At your peril matey !! Like you say Dubsport have a good reputation as do Stealth Racing.

1.8 or 2.0 ?? (Different injection systems) 1.8-16v has K-Jetronic mechanical injection. Unlikely to have this sensor fitted. Problem more likely to be related to warm-up regulator (fitted to front of crankcase) or 5th (cold start) injector - fitted to inlet manifold. 2.0-16v may well have this sensor fitted - likely to be mounted in water pipework close to cylinder head.

sampayne, - welcome to the forum m8 I have Golf suspension on my G60 - works fine 8)

Nice one Rodders - some good cars on there 8)

IMO it's the parents who want punishing for not bringing their kids up properly. My daughter would never do anything like that :wink:

Sounds like a standard pulley What's the VW number ?

I'll third that one. My G60 is one of the last ones that was built and it's now 12 years old. Of course it's going to be unreliable. The reason why Corrado's hold their value so well is because we all look after them & replace worn out parts when necessary. Only 6 weeks ago I was approached at a petrol station here in Birmingham & offered £4000 cash for my G60, I immediately turned it down. 8)

Yes - much easier with the bumper removed. Standard 78mm pulley has a metal disc attached to the back of it which covers the internal belt chamber - smaller pulleys do not have this disc & leave the chamber open. Possibly an RSR outlet ??

danny allen, - welcome to the forum m8 Unless the "new" charger has been re-conditioned, I strongly suggest that you have it done before fitting it to the car. As others have said, you must remove & then meticulously clean all boost pipes, intercooler & throttle body. To be on the safe side, I would also remove & inspect the cylinder head. If you think about it - the person that you bought the car from would have been able to get more money for the car if he had fitted the "new" charger before selling it !! The fact that he hasn't done this would suggest that he knows more about any potential damage than he has told you.

:lol: :lol:

There's Tim Styles Racing - http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5638 http://www.tsr-performance.com/

GSF part no. 93494A - 2 Pin blue temp sensor £6.90 + VAT So far as I know we use the O.E. supplier for them - can't remember if they come with the seal rings though.

1. Remove steering wheel 2. Remove both upper & lower plastic cowls 3. Unscrew steering lock switch securing screw, using tiniest phillips screwdriver on planet. This screw may not easily be visible - it screws the switch to the alloy lock housing from behind - hence the need for a tiny screwdriver. 4. Switch will now pull away from the back of the lock housing. Change the switch & have fun trying to get the tiny screw back in !! If you still have the original steering lock key barrel fitted, I would advise that you replace the whole assembly as per above post. When your key barrel evenually "collapses", you'll need to change the whole lot anyway. Mine collapsed completely at 86,000 miles !! More expensive but well worth considering.

emax, Are you just replacing the electrical switch ??

Sounds like your mechanic's a robbing bar-steward - Bentley manual says it's exactly the same proceedure !! 15 mins was no exaggeration - I timed myself from entering the workshop to driving away !! (a shade under 16 mins to be precise)

Nearly ran into a white Corrado on Slade Road early this afternoon - private reg plate. Gravelly Hill / Erdington area of Birmingham. I was in my Metallic Black G60 Anybody on here ??

TheStig, Correct proceedure - 1. Remove steering wheel. 2. Remove both lower & upper steering column cowls. 3. Remove both stalk switches. 4. Break old steering lock housing apart (will not come away from steering column in 1 piece) - use "grips" on top & left side of lock housing. Softish alloy & should break off quite easily. 5. Turn electrical switch to 1st position, attach & screw to back of new lock housing. 6. Fit new lock housing to steering column. 7. Turn key in new lock cylinder to first position & line up with slot in electrical switch. 8. Slide new lock cylinder into new steering lock housing. 9. Re-assemble stalk switches, cowls & steering wheel. There is no requirement for drilling the old lock cylinder - it will come away from the car still attached to the mashed-up lock housing. Took me 15 minutes from start to finish. 8)

It's the blue/grey wire in the multiplug for the radio. I assume that this wire connects to the back of the instrument cluster & takes a signal from the same source as the speedometer. So far as I'm aware, the actual speed sensor is mounted on the gearbox. This then sends an electronic signal to the speedometer, radio & spoiler. Any further than that - I don't know :?

Try these :- http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11545 http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1432

Not sure on that one - the UK spec wiring diagrams are like rocking horse s**t !!

Speed sensor - G60

Connections and plugs on fuse/relay panel - G60 A1 - Headlight wiring harness (yellow) A2 - Headlight wiring harness (yellow) B - Open C - Headlight wiring harness (yellow) D - Optional equipment wiring harness (green) E - Instrument wiring harness (green) F - Engine compartment wiring harness, right (white) G1 - Engine compartment wiring harness, right (white) G2 - Engine compartment wiring harness, right (white) H1 - Steering column switch wiring harness (red) H2 - Steering column switch wiring harness (red) J - Steering column switch wiring harness (red) K - Rear wiring harness (black) L - Rear wiring harness (black) M - Rear wiring harness (black) N - A/C wiring harness (green) P - Rear window defroster and fog light wiring harness (blue) Q - Instrument wiring harness (blue) R - Light switch wiring harness (blue) S - Engine compartment wiring harness, right (white) T - Two-point connector (green) U1 - Instrument cluster wiring harness (blue) U2 - Instrument cluster wiring harness (blue) V - Multi-function indicator wiring harness (green) W - Six-point connector (green) X - Warning lamp wiring harness (green) Y - Single connector, terminal 30 Z1 - Single connector Z2 - Single connector, terminal 31 30 - Single connector, terminal 30 30B - Single connector 31 - Single connector, terminal 31

There is a speed sensor behind the dash - I'll try to find a diagram for you :wink: There is also a resistor in the spoiler mech or control unit (can't remember which), the rating of this resistor sets the road speed at which the spoiler rises.