stevemac

Really depends on the condition & mileage - from what you describe, I'd start around £500. Maybe need to haggle a bit - depends on what use you could make of the rest of the car, i.e.how much is it worth to you. If all that you're going to use is the engine, you'd be paying say £500 for an engine that you may not know the history of !! I've deleted the other topic that you posted - this is the right section :wink:

Spot on there - the switch just disables/enables the ultrasonic interior sensors.

U have a Scorpion 918 series alarm. Thatcham 1 spec, but you'll need the installation certificate for the insurance discount. Siren unit is quite small (black) but WILL be in the engine bay. Usually mounted onto one of the inner wings. Alarm control unit will be mounted inside the car - behind the dash (as has already been suggested). Contrary to earlier suggestions - you will have difficulty getting another alarm fob. They are factory coded to the control unit. To get a new fob, you will have to send your alarm control unit & existing alarm fob to Scorpion Vehicle Security in Manchester. It is not possible to just re-code a new fob on this type of alarm system. It may be possible to have your existing fob repaired - may just be a dry joint on the circuit board inside. If the transmitter is working okay to unlock/lock the car - repair is usually possible.

What a difference the colour coded handles make - looks like a real nice car r u gonna remove the body mouldings too ?

Nice one Daz - hope they're both doing okay :D

Mo, - maybe worth checking out the members gallery section for some syling ideas http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewforum.php?f=11

Site's not finished yet - best to email or phone Darren

Just under 140mph (speedo) for me (M1) - leaving a Vectra V6 for dead :lol:

R1 charger is fully ported & polished with enlarged inlet & outlet chambers - for the ultimate boost experience 8)

Welcome to the forum reg Not really sure what you'd be paying for a 2.0 16v - just beware of any potential problems when buying - http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5124

Darren (g-man on this forum) can sort out your charger - I have yet to meet a person who has had any bad experiences with him. http://www.g-werks.com Go the whole hogg m8 - have an R1 - you won't regret it 8)

68mm pulleys seem to be the most popular & SNS chips are good too. The facts regarding pulleys are that the smaller the pulley you have fitted, the more frequent charger rebuilds will become. The smaller pulleys make the charger spin faster, creating more boost but also wearing out the charger seals & bearings faster. I have a R1 spec charger with a 65mm pulley - I'm planning to have the charger re-built every 30,000-35,000 miles. Darren g-man is the guy to talk to about prices - he has an excellent reputation too.

Mo, - welcome to the forum m8 Jabba stage 4's aren't all that much different to standard - your extra power will come from the smaller pulley & the new chip. Standard bhp is approx 160. So long as your car is in tip-top mechanical condition, the mods that you describe would maybe bring you upto approx 180bhp. Body styling is all down to personal taste - so long as you like your car, that's what matters :wink: Increasing BHP will create a hole in your pocket - power ain't cheap.

I was totally horrified to find that after parting with the thick end of a grand (including induction kit) not all of the bearings had been done. Had I realised this before dropping the car off - I would never have gone there in the first place. :agrue:

Bit more info available here - http://www.corradoclub.co.uk '92 G60's were a bit of a mismatch between the early & late Corrados. Later (VR6) bonnet, front wings, bumper, front fog & indicator lights. Earlier interior though. Also - be careful buying wheels if you're lowering the car - the ideal offset is different. You will have the narrower (10mm each side) axles but the wider (5mm each side) front wings. Mine is lowered by 80mm with 7.5x17" wheels on ET37 - even with 3mm spacers, they catch all over the place. I'll be replacing them with ET25's this summer. 8)

Yes - that is really what Brian said. Brian is the guy who does their rebuilds & is also a partner/owner in the business too. It is apparently fairly standard practice not to change some of the bearings - for most/all rebuilders. My point is that the bearings are comparatively cheap to replace - my personal opinion is that they should all be changed regardless of condition. example - you change the front brakepads on your car. 1 of the old pads has plenty of lining left on it. You'd still change all 4, even though 1 was perfectly okay. Now I'm not saying that it is one of the bearings that they don't change that has failed - all I'm saying is that it's a possibility.

Nice one Paul - looks good so far :wink: Bit more power that the 8v ehh :lol: :lol:

You may be surprised to know that they don't renew all of the bearings !! I know this for a fact - they didn't renew all of my bearings, even with a conversion to R1 spec. Their point of view - "some of the bearings don't usually wear very much & so we don't bother to replace all of them" (direct quote from Jabba) My point of view - I'm paying for a FULL rebuild - I want a FULL rebuild :mad: I wonder if the bearing that went was one that they decided not to change ??

I'd agree with most of the above - G60's do tend to use a fair amount of fuel when idling in traffic - I curently live 4 miles from where I work - I've seen an average of 12mpg on more that 1 occasion on my way home from work !! my usual average is 25-27mpg overall, steady 70mph - I can get approx 35-36mpg Spec - R1 ported/polished charger, superchip, 65mm pulley, Jetex cone induction kit with heatshield, freeflow s/s exhaust with CAT bypass. I need some red-top injectors & re-map asap - Honda Civic Type R was all over me like a rash one evening last week :(

That's the one - I did a good job, superimposing my piccy on to a different background. :lol:

You can all see mine :lol:

Bournemouth 20VT James, - u have modded wheel arches ??

Sounds like you may have been in the wrong section of the MFA program - the stalk switch needs a good press sometimes to change the mode. Who re-fitted/checked the carger ?? Check out the DIY section of http://www.snstuning.com

Haven't looked at mine yet but from memory it's at the back of the front door window

If the voltage output is the same at the amp end & also at the head unit - I doubt your cable is the problem. If you're not loosing any power in the cable itself then it's okay. I always take the switchable amp feed from the electric aerial output of the head unit - often a thin black wire. This wire carries a very short pulse of power when the r/c unit is switched on & another short pulse of power when the r/c is switched off.