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2CC please post up (including pics) and get it stickied - might be useful to others.

Michelins, if i remember correctly, but the noise has only come since the last week, which is also when I got the error codes on VAG. Stevemac, if the ABS ring is broken or cracked, would that not be observed immediately as excess noise from each wheel when turned by hand? It does seem strange that three wheels have pretty much the same fault code. What would you suggest now?

Artecs - agree with Chrishill. 16" may the a good size as you dont get such a hard ride as compared to 17 but dont look wimpy like normal 15". Having said that I've seen a guy with a 35mm lowered C on speedlines and they looked , well, quite good.

Glad to see you've got a new motor Henny - i think i saw this in the trader some months back - I remember those alloys, and the car description was pretty good too. I was pretty tempted, but really wanted a VR. Anyway, good its gone to someone who knows about the car (understatement!) And BTW, let me know what you want to do with those wheels - they're pretty nice, although my fave are still Kevs ZH1s.

Andyvlw - superb setup and very well finished. I'vew also done my switches blue, with the headlight switch and auto lights red. Any "how-to" on this yet? G60Renshaw? BTW, does the C have R134 or the old freon as I need to get mine regassed - mines a 94VR. And can this be done at home - i guess there shouldnt be much more than getting some refrigerant bottles and putting them on the regassing valves at the front of the engine bay?

Actually if your jets keep clogging up you might find an in-line filter helps - a couple of notes from Halfrauds.

Thanks for that Steve. No, the ABS light switches off after a few seconds and the brakes were only visually inspected. I have just spun all four wheels individually and there was no excessive noise except the pads rubbing slightly on the discs and they seemed quite smooth. I didnt get under the car but had a sideways view of the brakes which seemed mucky but nothing worse than normal. What should I look for and what would cause the worn bearing type noise?

I've cleaned out the ISV - not too much crap cameout but the dashpot seems a bit sticky when you press it by hand. Is there any way to clean and lube it at all without totally upsetting its current position?

Just spent about 45 mins looking at how to access the bottom cooling hose to drain and flush the system. Just cant see how the hell to access it and it is really p#ssing me off. Does it need to be accessed from underneath - I have got aircon with its associated Heat exchanger. Are the hoses going to the engine block also to be opened for draining? And where is the engine drain screw - diag would help. Thanks

Err, havent noticed the ABS light was on myself! Is it a big job to replace the ring and how much is it from GSF? No I havent had them replaced recently although they were inspected about 3 weeks back and looked fine. Supercharged, I wish you were right about the codes being there for ages, unfortunately they've only shown up now after the noise became apparent. I'll have a look at them tomorrow and see what is apparent. It may be that the bearings are also shafted. Incidentally, can you use Lithium grease on the bearings?

Where can you get the spark leads removal tool - I believe these were clipped into the side of the engine bay, but mine doesnt have one? Can you also use long-nosed pliers? And will a normal spark socket fit the opening in the block to take the sparks out? Thanks all

OK, I've run VAGCOM earlier today and got the following errors:3 Faults Found: 00285 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor: Front Right (G45) 04-00 - Mechanical Malfunction 00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor: Rear Left (G46) 04-00 - Mechanical Malfunction 00287 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor: Rear Right (G44) 04-00 - Mechanical Malfunction I guess this has something to do with the noise, but what should I look for and what is meant by these? Interestingly there is no mention of error on the Front left wheel.

I believe you can put some separate leds behind each dial - A20 Lee has tried this (IIRC), but if anyone has got a how-to please post it up.

I've just bought some off ebay from a guy selling what he terms "jaguar Quality". They are very well made and only £15.50 inlcuding delivery. He's a very helpful chap too. Cant remember the link but have a look under the mats section. I've got a cream interior and the oak colour complements it well - plus they dont look so dirty in the winter!

Thanks for that Kev. A slight aside, my TPS shows the angles as 13.7degrees (closed) and 94(??) at full throttle. Mines an auto so would the fully open position be more (related to kickdown maybe?)? If so why and what can I do about it?

Actually the system will be flushed through so it wont be mixing with anything else - there will be a mix of just GSF coolant and water in a (hopefully) clean cooling system. My local VW dealer is not very clued up about Cs.

That might be the ISV - its coming out and getting a clean on the weekend and I'll let you know if I get any joy. Apparently it sticks sometimes but I dont know if a gentle dremel and some wd40 wouldn't solve it. Anyone tried that at all?

I know iits best to use G12+, but is the stuff from GSF compatible (if so which one? - Stevemac?) - I will be flushing my cooling system this weekend. BTW, would you recommend a rad flush after rinsing through with water before refilling or is that overkill? Car's only done 49k but there is still the hissing sound which I will be exploring (mentioned in another thread). It has aircon (needs regassing) but I suspect this may have something to do with the hiss. thanks gentlemen

I iknow what u mean kiddo. I park my car in the parking area behind our flat - out of sight means the little shmucks dont get to it so easily. Sorry to see the damage, but I hope it gets sorted. All the best.

Hey Nigwell I've been told both things - that is is ok to test it against the block and also that it fries the electrics, so take your pick! You can also get a spark plug tester which basically clips on to the plug and lead while you get someone to crank the engine over. Halfords or your local spares shop. Meanwhile, all the best for the new year

Cheers, although would the issues not be shown up through VAG COM? Coilpack leads & plugs are OK, dont know about the rest though. Is there any way to check the ISV and can this be taken apart to repair?

Cheers Steve - just didnt think the rear bearings would be problematic, hence I didnt check them. How much are they anyway? Tyres are new - about 300 miles on them.

Hi All, New year, New problem - sounds like bearings playing up as there is excessive road noise. Actually its not road noise just seems to be the best way to describe it. I've spun the front wheels separately but they both sound OK. Its most pronounced on smooth roads (of course) but there is no change when the wheel is turned either way. There is no change in the drone with engine speed, so it doesnt seem to be gearbox related either - i have an auto for my sins! Ideas? Thanks

Hi all and a very happy new year to yall. Fiddly one this - coming up to a junction the revs drop and sometimes the engine cuts out. As there's no idle speed screw I cant even do a temporary fix that way. It will then take several turns to start up again. Sometimes as I am slowing down, the relays click in, engine cuts and then starts up again. As I have an auto its not that the transmission restarts the engine. VAGCOM doesnt point to anything, but it obviously appears to be a loose connection somwhere. I've taken out and refitted the relays on the fuse panel, checked the fuses but dont really know where to go from there. Would welcome some help. What a start to the new year. Cheers all

err....no