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Sanj How did you find the light dispersion with the leds as compared to the bulbs on the clock pod - I've just replace the bulbs with 5mm frosted leds but the illumination is no way bright enough. I've also used some foil on the reflection strip but that hasnt helped much either. BTW they are 6000mcd leds, also from Ultraleds. The switches are perfect though (3mm 6000 mcd clear leds).

Lee, I'm doing the sameto my car and its a real PITA to take some of the switches apart. Once you've taken them out of the dash/door etc get a jewellers screwdriver to carefully prise them apart from the sides - actually you attack them from the underside of the switch. The upper portion then just slides out, but be careful just in case you have anything trapped. My experience with the window switches was that once they are open, and you can see the green led sitting on the top, firstly note the direction of fit and then cut the led off as close as possible to the bulb section. That way you have got enough of the remaining leg on which to attach the new led. For some unknown reason, leds for both driver and passenger switches refused to come out by desoldering the legs from the board. Weird. The dash switches are easy, just solder a resistor onto one of the legs so that you can apply 12V to them and directly replace the bulbs as appropriate. once this is done it really complements a nice dash colour well. HTH and good luck - its well worth the effort. Hasan

The Hub - my missus bought it for me buit its one by Foliatec, which has a nice quality of leather in the gaitor part of it. There are three handbrake collars for different diameter handbrake pins. However, I'm struggling with getting the handbrake off and I dont really want to wreck the existing leather handle, just in case it doesnt fit! So if anyone has any ideas about this, would be appreciated.

I've just bought a gaitor off ebay with a carbon fibre grip. Gonna try and fit it this weekend, time depending. Looks nice as a separate unit but it may be something else when its fitted. Will post somepics when its done.

depends on how far u want to go. There are 3 for the dash, one each for each digital display, then one for each elec window switch, fog lights, rear demister (these actaully have 2 - one for the switch and one to show its on) main lights, heated seat, elec mirror control. Count them up and you've got your total. Bear in mind you'll lose a few on the way, so you need spares. Just order 20 3mm leds and 10 5mm bulbs and you wont be far out. Best of luck.

funboxvr6 you are the daddy of Bentley! Spot on and now i've got good access to the pages. Now, when I type in "Camshaft position sensor" it simply gives me the list of wiring diagrams, but no illustrations of location and where it's attached. Any ideas?

OK the laptop is a P3 which had a firewall running - turned this off. No luck. PC does nt have a firewall but runs Norton antivirus, so turned this off before teh install. No luck. Tried clicking the 127 URL directly to see the bently page but I get the "cant be displayed" message again. WTF is going on? Tried emailing the guy who supplied it but he's not telling me anything new. Now I'm really getting p*****d off, but 60 smackers is too much for a service guide.

the microsoft firewall was running so I've now turned that off. Pop-up blocker is also off, but still the same message of "the page cannot be displayed". B****rd.

tried that, no luck though. Dont really know what to try next as I've tried all the options listed so far.

Supercharged - yes I have. There are other users that can log on ot this terminal, although there is no network in the office. You think this may affect it? I'll try it on my laptop tonight - also runs XP Home edition. I'd still want o look at it in the office when necessary and not just rely on the laptop though. JoebloggsVR69 I cant remember how many times i've installed and then deinstalled it - using the uninstall wizard (best way to do it?)

Struggling onm this one guys - tried Oichans methid and LHDG60s methods but all i get is the page with the Wiring diagram and search tabs but with a screen saying "this page cannot be displayed". What else can I try. BTW, I have a P4 running XP on my desktop. cheers

Yeah, I'd be interested in this one too, although mine would be to replace the crappy plastic trim on the handbrake.

No m8, shower and new deo! Soz Kev, but that asking for trouble.

Sorry, forgot to mention - I disconnected the battery for 1 day (!) prior to recharging in order to reset the ecu but although after reconnecting it turned over fine, it did not start. Made me think that it probably wasn't the cps in the ned. I'm going to take it for a gentle drive tonight, not too far in case it dies on me again and then get it checked on VAGCOM - actually I'm ordering one through the GB so I may as well wait and do this myself. Any thoughts on the unsuccessful reset of the ecu?

OK, the car's been dead for the past week/10 days and as I havent been able to start it I cant take it to a garage to get it on VAGCOM. PLus there doesnt seem to be anyone in the area with VAGCOM. I tried starting it a few times, seemed to turn over fine but no spark. Put the battery on charge overnight, connected it up and wayhay, fired up immediately. Surely it cant be that the starter (which draws max current) can turn over fine but there be insufficient power for ignition? I removed and cleaned some of the connectors around the engine (those that were easily accesible form the top, so I dont know which ones), so maybe its just a loose connection somewhere? Thanks for the help.

Know the problem bud. What you have to do is slide off the clip nearest to you - looking at the filter box from the passenger side. I used a screwdriver and carefully pressed it off - take care as if you press too hard it will fly off and will be a bummer to find again. Once that's off, press the mesh side down slightly (from around the edges) and slide this towards you. You're not there yet as the PIA is to get the bugger out which really is fiddly. There's no way to describe it just try moving it around carefully. Remove the old seal, apply the new one, clean the crap and leaves up in the engine bay and pop it back in again. Fitting is the same as removal, but in reverse. I've actually sealed mine with bitumen to be safe. Make sure it is well fitting otherwise you'll introduce more leaks. Good luck m8. H

OK. Now if I opt for 25mm lower springs, uprated by say 25% (presumably that will be the lowest upating) would this also be bad for the shocks, again bearing in mind how the car is used? Sorry to labour a point. Presently the car is totally standard.

Er yeah, pretty much. You need to remove the leather trim on the door grab and there are two large screws behind. Tke these out and then slide the grab off. Slide off teh plastic trim from the internal door handle (forwards IIRC) and unscrew the handle from the door. Undo all the screws around the door card (4?) and carefully lift the card out from the clips at teh bottom of the door. Dont try and force the black trim at the top off - the door card sits in this and it will just break if you try. HTH

One badass car bud. Lookin good. Love to see it finished. Might look even better with a tt dash and ancills. Possibly the ultimate C?

PabloVR6, Lowering caps seem an interesting idea. I used to race RC buggies (actually just bought a couple of new ones again - wot a kid!) years back and we used caps on the shocks to harden the suspension up a bit. Are these the same sort of thing or do these just limit the travel of the shock? If the latter, is it feasible to use, say 2 per shock to get 20mm lowering (assuming 1 lowers it by 10mm)? Again is there any dverse effect on the dampers?

Hmmm. what do you suggest then?

Hi Guys, Just want some advice on lowering. I want to lower my car about 25mm, just to lose the 4wd look, but i want to retain the soft ride. The car is used for general use, no track days or anything. What is the thinking on simply changing to shorter (non-uprated) springs? Most springs I've seen are at least 25% uprated, which I dont really want, as the kids sit in the back and dont want to bounce all over the road, no matter how cool I tell them the C is. How would this affect the shocks (reduced travel)? Thanks in advance.

Dav, Whereabouts are u in Middx? dont see any Coorados where I live.

Good write-up. I may consider this in light of the suspected auto box problem I'm getting. Approximate outlay, Storm? How much did you do yourself?

Storm - guide up and ready yet? Budget? As Mike says, is it straightforward? TBH Mike, when I got the car the Auto was very good, surprisingly, but i find it bizarre that you have to pay a premium for it over a manual if it is so crap.