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Have you got VAGCOM - check the sensors. I had a similar problem and turned out to be the TPS. Also check your camshaft position sensor and relay 109.

Let me know how you get on Lee as I want to change mine (to blue). I've presently removed the green filter so at least the centre dial lights orangey, but the outer two are pretty pathetic. I dont think the optics are that good an idea - if you can wire up some leds stick it in the how-to section.

Some of the drivvel these boy racers talk is, well, drivvel. A VR6 may not be the most powerful thing compared to some of the motors nowadays, but it oozes cool, is effortless in performance and has a uniqeuness no amount of chav body kits and woofy exhausts can match. TBH, any C vs any of those kidmobiles is a no-contest. Okay if it does come to performance I'm sure some of our forum guys have motors which would leave most cars for dust.

OMG they're so bad its not even funny!

Furki, OSV thks for the info - a bit out of my price league at the mo I'm still in the £3-400 range at present!

worn green plastic scouring pad plus soapy solution. Needs a bit of effort - use single finger pressure for stubborn marks. I've had the same prob - beige interior with loads of scuffs on the floor vent outlets, footrests and of course door pods. I wouldnt use solvents though.

worn green plastic scouring pad plus soapy solution. Needs a bit of effort - use single finger pressure for stubborn marks. I've had the same prob - beige interior with loads of scuffs on the floor vent outlets, footrests and of course door pods. I wouldnt use solvents though.

1. G60 Renshaws Porsche rims 2. Kevhaywires RH ZW1s others I'll have to think about. BTW, G60renshaw, how much for your rims? Bummer to find, especially on the used market. Cheers

Yeah Lee, if you do have a go, do let me know as my dials look pretty dire. I've removed the green filter but it looks a bit pathetic with an orangy-type colour as compared to my nice blue switches etc. IN fact if anyones had a stab at teh late style controls I'd be interested.

thought U might like to do something else with that adjustable too - stealers always seem to be unhelpful regarding the C.

I think I'd agre with jimsg60. SUVs are, in my mind, just pretentious especially as most are used by mums to drop off their kids at school - I know, we live across the road from one and I cant see the road for these bloody things. None are really used properly and whilst i can guess that a Cayenne with 20" alloys and smoked glass looks bad, i think most cars would look serious with that kind of mod - imagine a C with 20" rims! TBH, i think on the cosmetic front Porsche has derated the boxter with the Cayenne shring such similr front end looks - after all, cars are ALL about image.

Sanj, The only LEDS I'm soldering to the PCBs are for the window switches, one of which I messed up. These dont need a resistor as this is already in place. As it was such a pain to remove the led I simply cut it off as close to the lens body as poss and resoldered the blue led in its place - note polarity of led otherwise it wont work! For the dash, I desoldered the bulbs and replaced them with LEDS plus a resistor on one leg. It doesnt matter which leg the resistor stays on. In fact, as the bulb holders are twist fit, if your leds dont light up, just take them out and turn them through 180 degrees. Summertime I'll make up a pcb for the dash clocks with about 3 leds per clock with 60 degree dipersion as per Kevs advice. This should give sufficient illumination. THe feed wires can be soldered in place of the running strip used for the screwfits. Hope that answers your question. If not, PM me. Will let you know when its done - right now I'm trying to get the car started!

Fine. Cheers Joe M.

Yep sure do. They my absolute fave wheels apart from the ones G60renshaw has. As soon as funds permit I'll sort myself a set. Anyway, all the cars look great and I'm a big fan of subtle improvements - gives the car more sophistication than some of the far out US-style mods which look kind of tacky.

Just interested in some comments on a pair of Konis on ebay - would they be suitable? Details below: "Koni adjustable strength and height, coil over shock absorbers. They have an open length of of 18" approx and a closed length of 12" approx. There are eyes both ends but you could easily put a peg on the top end if you can weld." There's no part number but they're red, which I believe are the stock Koni units. Any expereicne of these? Comments? Cheers all

This is such a tough call - all fantastic motors. I only plummed for VR6 because thats what I HOPE mine can look like when its all done up nicely. I must applaud all of you for the efforts and creativity in improving an already superb car.BTW OSV, if you dont like your porsche alloys, let me kow if you want rid.

Useful points Kev, certainly worth bearing in mind. Not too kean on the filter method as blue is quite difficult to get right. I'll make up a circuit board and put in about 3 wide angle leds per clock and see how that works - will post some pics if its any good. Actually there's no problem dimming, although I just keep them on full (no dimming). Otherwise , how else has anyone else tackled this one?

Stratos was one wicked car. I had an r/c one when I was a kid and then grew up to buy a Tamiya Audi quattro. Looked teh biz, but that's the nearest I got to the quattro. One serious motor.

Mmm. This is going some way to answering my issue - that is, what would be an optimal setup to drop the height without hardeing the ride too much. Collies are a waste of time for me as most of my driving is in town and, like some of you lot we have loads of speedbumps too. Anyone with a soft-ish suspension set-up AND lowered?

Dr Mat - do you know how to check the autobox ecu with VAGCOM? I just did a total scan to see what it showed up but these were the only two errors. I also tried selecting just the Transmission tab but still got the same response.

Cheers for the info Kev. The whine is either changing manually or in D but it only lasts for about 1 second during the change. I'll change the fluid at the weekend and see if that doesnt help. Re the TPS what would cause it to fail and is there any way I can test it - maybe waving some metal in front of it whilst using a voltmeter? BTW, where is it located (you can tell I'm new to C ownership!)?

Okay, slight update, but i'm still puzzled. Put the car on VAGCOM and got the following message: " 2 Faults Found: 00518 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69) 16-00 - Signal Outside Specifications 00638 - Engine/Transmission Electrical Connection 2 03-00 - No Signal" The first was because the ignition was off, of course, but the second makes no sense. Strangely nothing came up about the CPS, so I guess its okay? What should i do about the 00638? Just another thing, with VAGCOM connected the car would turn but not fire. Disconnecting it started after cranking twice. Why would that be and is this normal? Now, following on from another thread re my auto transmission, there was no fault code mentioned for that either (auto would whine in changing from 3rd to 4th and back down again). Any ideas? Kev, Henny, Stevemac? Cheers a bundle

I was getting the jrew message but this was cured by changing the symcjit. DLL file to symcjit.OLD. This should cure the jrew problem but wont help with booting up. The next thing to do is close your firewall and antivirus. Following that, use FUNBOXVR6s advice and click File Open and go from there - his points are a few threads up. If that doesnt work you've got a dodgy disc. HTH Hasan

So how do you get bright light on the clocks, as Dubbprince also has the same prob? Ultraleds do some 10000 mcd screwfit leds but i just wonder if these will have the proper illumination that you need. I'm gonna try Oichans method, but later in the year when I've sorted the remaining issues, but I'd welcome some comments in the meantime. Is 6000mcd too low?

Hi all, Just following on from my previous enquiry about the whine from my auto box (which now ONLY occurs when changing up from 3rd to 4th, thank God), i'm going to change the fluid and see if that helps. Can I use normal Dexron 4 or something similar or does it need to be VW fluid? And is there anything like an auto-box flush, in fact is this at all recommended? Thanks in advance.