andy

I've used carpet adhesive repeatedly in mine, the headlining always comes down again :-( It feels mega sticky when it goes on, I think it just pulls a layer of foam off with it when it come unstuck.

From memory, you can just take the sprockets off, you shouldn't need to remove the cams separately to remove the head. Tensioner wise, you'll have to take the gearbox off to replace the tensioner pad, just a fact of life with the VR I'm afraid.

From memory they just bolt on the end, like most cam sprockets do.

Cams and tappets don't need the gearbox or chains removing. You wouldn't even need to remove the head. Tappets are about £100 for INA ones from GSF, 263 cams if you went for them are in the region of £300, check the recent group buys, might even be cheaper. Then the obligatory remap....

Spot on. :clap: What a hilarious suggestion, anybody would think that an engine was a sealed unit with no replaceable parts. Thankfully mine has 133k on it, original chains and doesn't clatter.....much.....really. I think it'll do another 133k before I think about swapping the engine because of it!

That really is quite impressive, nearly 30hp gain. Can anyone clarify the cost of a stealth remap, roughly?

Uprated rear anti-roll bar, in some ways I wish I had just tried that before lowering and stiffening mine.

Yep I had this and it was, as the man said, low brake fluid level. I assumed it was going to be the handbrake switch, much easier to solve thankfully.

A duff cam sensor willl definately cause poor performance, I've had a couple go on me, you can get used to the lack of power to be honest but when you put a new one in you really notice it pulling again. Quick, cheap and easy...how often can you say that about a Corrado repair! I think you need to look elsewhere for the jittering though.

I have this problem, with an mdf shelf though, is yours the original Kev? I was thinking of reverting to that...

Its only boring to you Kev, if you're not interested why comment? :brickwall: The fact the thread is 5 pages long shows quite a few people are very interested. :) For what its worth the last few replies have made more sense, cheers for clarifying things philmo :)

Yes I knew that :tongue: , I was questioning why Philmo was saying engine damage could result from incorrect knock control following a cam change. Doesn't make much sense to me. :scratch: By changing cams without a remap, you haven't changed knock sensors or the way they work, they hear pinking they tell the ecu to retard the ignition. Why would engine damage result....?

What do knock sensors do? :scratch:

What mods are there accross the whole spectrum of the car world, that offer better performance and driveability without a remap or ECU change? Erm, most. Or would you have your car remapped after fitting a BMC CdA for instance, or perhaps we should all have our cars remapped every time we renew our spark plugs, or fill up with a different grade of fuel. I think you'll find plenty of people across the car world who have better air filters and exhausts but haven't considered a remap. I'm not saying a car won't be better with a remap, obviously it will . I could say there's absolutely no point in modding or mapping anything unless you're going to remove avery last gram of unecessary weight from a car, or unless you're going to fit the most expensive tyres, or unless you have a quaiffe. The list goes on.

I think the issue (possibly) is a financial one, I can see Normans point of view. I don't mind paying a couple of hundred quid for a set of cams that will release a few more horses. However, its the further (few?) hundred pounds that a remap costs that makes the whole idea less attractive. The point being, is it worth doing one without the other, I like most people, don't mind putting in a few hours under the bonnet bolting on a modified part. Its the whole hassle and expense of remapping that puts some people off. We simply are curious to know, how much is to be gained by installing cams alone. No one seems to have the answer yet unfortunately. Just my 2 penneth 8)

If you have no reference to work with, I'd position it in the middle of its adjustment, you're only talking +/- mm from the centre point, the rest can be adjusted in the usual way (on the 2 bolt, strut to hunb clamping arrangement) during proper 4 wheel allignment. I agree though the whole design is daft :?

Sounds like a wiring problem (i.e. a short circuit) or possibly a relay stuck on that shouldn't be, its going to be a matter of isolating things one at a time I would have thought. At least if the problem is there all the time its off, it should be easier to locate, i'd try pulling relays one by one and waggling wires until it stops, should give you a clue.

There's no need to re-torque the head. As long as you follow the correct tightening sequence, ie torque figures and then multiple stage angle tightening it should be fine.

Totally agree :salute:

Anyone got anything to say about these, they seem to be cheap as chips? It appeals to me as a car with a proper V6, 4 wheel drive, loads of gadgets and some proper comfort for peanuts. How does syncro compare to 4motion?

Bleed it just like any slave cylinder, open bleed nipple, pedal down, close nipple, pedal up. Repeat until no air coming out, keeping the master cylinder well filled.... :-) Wouldn't expect it to be hard to fit tbh.

Mine has been really good, I've done 50k miles in it over the last 4 years, most of the work I've done to it has been my choice, not because anything has gone wrong with it. A few mods, a bit of preventative maintenance. Its not let me down once, I once had a pin sized hole in a hose caused by a worn engine mount, just leaked a bit of steam, repaired at the roadside. A noisy cv joint was the only other fault to develop whilst driving. Its been brilliant overall. Its got 130k on the clock, no rust, original chains, pulls like a train and doesn't lead an easy life! Can't think of many cars of that era that could make that kind of claim.

Yes it is defintely modern thinking to put the better tyres on the rear of this kind of car. It goes against everything that used to be said though! My old golf vr6 broke away once (totally unprovoked oversteer) after I put 2 new tyres on the front, with old tyres on the rear, scary stuff....

The big bolt head in the centre of the circle is the timing chain tensioner bolt and unlikely (unless loose) to be related to your problem. I'd guess maybe your cam cover gasket is leaking?

From memory, isn't it just done on engine size rather than model specific?