andy

Are you testing it with the engine warm? You need to...

I've just done the Admiral Multicar thing online and got a quote of £522 for my Corrado VR6 and Mk2 GTi 8V, can't beleive it tbh, I was paying more than that for just the Corrado before! I hope I haven't ticked the wrong box somewhere.

That's not a gti gearknob either is it (small thing I know) but why would someone remove the golf ball one? Is it definately a gti and not a lower spec model?

My mate at work tells people I'm on the Cordoba forum! But then again he rides a Honda C90 so gets his fair share of 2-wheeled-sewing-machine type comments from me!

Welcome cmoth! Ideally get the car hooked up to Vag-COM, it's a computerised diagnostic system that can reveal a wide range of running faults. Probably worth taking it back to the person who fitted your plugs/filter and explain the symptoms.

Good stuff matey! :-)

The car sounds fine...the driver however...:-)

Yes it should spin. Make sure if its a later type that the little cover that covers the hand cranking bolt is covering the bolt head. Its a small plastic cover with an arrow on it. Its a safety thing to stop the motor spinning whilst the cranking handle is in. I wouldn't think that was your problem to be honest as clicking usually means a limit has been reached or an over torque issue.

I didn't realise you had to be in a wheelchair to use a disabled space......The problem is that disabled spaces are only a courtesy thing and too many people know that now. There's no law (I think) against using them but its common courtesy (often forgotten these days).

Don't forget to fuse your amp supply mate, a lot of people don't bother. I was in a car when the amp supply shorted to the bodywork, the whole car filled with choking plastic fumes within seconds as the cable insulation burnt off!

Just normal hydraulic (Dot 4?) or above fluid will do nicely, just the standard stuff from Halfords, not the silicone based stuff. The clutch shares the brake fluid reservoir but no you shouldn't need to touch the brakes, just make sure your fluid level in the reservoir doesn't drop to far from the top.

Not sure its adjustable on a hydraulic system is it? It probably means your clutch is wearing out. Might pay to bleed it anyway though, not a difficult or time consuming job.

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... sc&start=0

Thats right.

I'm doing LGV (as its now called) training for C+E (Artic) and you'd be surpised how quick 40mph feels in a proper lorry on a single carraigeway. You don't often have too much of an opportunity to do much more than that. Most of the ones you see doing 60 mph+ on a single carraigeway are just under the 7.5 tonne limit that would classify them as a LGV. It saves companies loads of money by not having to pay LGV drivers, just anyone with a car license. LGV only allows 50mph on a dual carraigeway and 60mph on a motorway, and most of them are limited to 56mph anyway.

Phat's right, you need 4 revolutions to get the marks all lined up again. 2 won't do it.

Could definately cause lumpy idle, mine had a bit of foam caught in it and was revving up to 4k and back down again by itself, funny but slightly concerning!

Halfords do alloy wheel spray in several shades, I'm sure that would do it ok.

Regularly get 400ish miles to a tank.

Its tosh, I've had two heads lightly skimmed with no problems, you're only talking 2 to 4 thou.

Lovely car, I think there are people out there who'd pay whatever you asked for personally, so unique, so tasteful. I think you'd get £12-15k. :-)

Cheers Nige, exactly what I needed to know, you got yours on yet?

I would take the trim panel out thats holding the edge still, peel back the headlining material until you find a good bit and then use some spray glue (very sticky, you don't need much and can get very even coverage) and then smooth the material back over. Worked for me when I had my whole headlining down.

hmmm, I bought them from someone on here too, packet was open....hmm

There's loads of info if you search mate, but basically start at the furthest wheel ie rear n/s and work towards the nearest wheel to the master cylinder, you may need to bleed the master cylinder too. I did my clutch whilst I was at it as well. Don't drain the fluid as such, just use the new fluid to push the old out.