andy

Coolant Temp signals are used as a correction factor for ignition timing, injection timing and idle speed stab'.. according to my info, what do they mean by injection timing, surely thats fuel pulse width, ie fueling. What else compensates for cold starting if its not that?

Thinking about it, if putting a 3k resistor in is the same as putting a spare sensor in, unattached to the car then you can assume the cold coolant value is 3k ohms. If, according to what I said the resistance falls with an increase in temperature then pulling the plug will be more like higher resistance ie still cold so would tend to make the engine overfuel. However, I reckon the ecu will see it as open circuit and assume the engine's running at its default 'safe' value of 80 degrees C.

As engine temperature rises, the resistance goes down, couldn't comment on values though.

do you reckon? I've got Konis/H&Rs with lowering top caps and never been bowled over by the 'acceptable' ride quality. Have you tried the same setup without the lowering caps?

I've seen a really good mk3 roof for under 50 quid before, very smooth running and didn't feel worn at all, I'm sure the mechanism (not liner or roof panel) are a direct fit to the C and they look like some of the parts have been re-designed. Obviously a complete strip down and rebuild of the roof would be best, but a mk3 roof looked like a good option to me, cheaper even if you had to buy a couple over the next few years! There's always the old trusty passat roof. David. No they're not the same (mk3 ones that is), I sooo wish they were, thousands of them about and less prone to problems.

Does that mean an OBD1 car with Schrick Manifold is better in that respect than an OBD2 car with Schrick Manifold?

Yep, reckon that could be a leaking damper thats dripping onto the driveshaft and conveneintly sprayed/distributed by the rotating driveshaft. Reckon you've got more than one leak though because the front of your sump is oily too and thats too out of the way to be coming from the driveshaft.

Yes, I'm a bit of a fuel economy anorak! :oops: Yours is obviously noticeably better than obd1, I can see that, I reckon you'll get significantly better mpg than quoted on a long run.

Are you sure you've got the right top plate on the spring, there are two types and one of them will not sit right and will come off. I've changed two sets of springs, one on a Golf VR6 and one on my current C VR6 and had to change the top plates on both occasions.

It will slide (just about) without the panel on. But it's close. Just having the whole thing on the bench makes me realise what an impossible job the motor has. Seems to me the whole system is stressed to b*ggery as standard and that any slight addition of friction screws the whole thing. :-(

I'm not too sure 200 miles qualifies as a proper test to tbh. I do 200 miles in 2 days normally, mostly fast A roads. Keep up the tests Trigger, 200 miles is quite a small mileage to be calculating mileage on, I can do 70 miles on a new tank and average 32, but over the whole tank that drops do about 29.

Doesn't using washers mean that you have a gap between the car roof and the sunroof? Couldn't leaks be a problem?

I've tried the setup from my old roof which has perfect rollers so I know there's no problems with rollers. Basically the problem is the same as before, the whole sliding part is stiff in the sunroof subframe. I have removed the roller part of the mechanism (ie the rear piece) and its still very stiff. The rear part slides really nicely but the front part which is the base of the water plate guide is stiff (too stiff). It's greased to death. Would new water plate guides help the situation? I'm thinking maybe new guide bases might slide easier.

Probably be in contact Storm Man, I need a few bits!

Late mk3 Golfs (higher spec ones) came with 288s, earlier ones were 280s. All Corrado VR6s came with 280s, not 288s. You don't need spacers to fit 288 calipers and carriers on a 5 stud Corrado/Golf mk3 hub.

Hi Bella :-) There is no torque setting for rear bearings as Bally says. Officially you tighten the nut up by hand until you can still move the thrust washer using finger pressure on a screwdriver without prying, no tighter. I would always check them again for slack/settling within a couple of hundred miles or so. Rear discs wear very slowly in my experience, depends how worn your existing ones are really. Although I generally don't mind GSF parts, I have had more than one bearing from there fail in under a year, but they are only a tenner!

Must be a lot more than that, if its 7 litres ish (off the top of my head) at 6000 rpm it will be using approx 42000 (7 *6000) litres a minute negating the volume of fuel injected and a lot of other things, gives you a rough idea. Plus it probably revs higher than that!

My 12 year old one doesn't look that ropey if that helps!

I've checked the rollers, I can see what you mean but mine are plastic, they are distinctly not round and do not rotate more than about 30 degrees in total. No metal rollers in sight.... the plot thickens!

I'll have a look then, I've had several roofs in maximum number of bits but never noticed these....they've probably all been flattened and not resembling rollers at all anymore!

Looks the same as mine which is Storm Grey. Whats yours Phil, Ice Grey Violet Pearl?

Will that make the engine seem quieter?

Cheers chaps, which parts exactly do you mean by the rollers though?

Yeah it seems to have got worse if anything, I haven't got the headlining panel in yet, I don't think the motor would move at all with that in!

I could have a lazy motor I suppose, the roof isn't out of sync with the motor though, I can get it to slide forwards if I assist the motor by pushing the panel. Its just too stiff! It even feels like hard work winding it manually, I'm not surprised the motor complains to be honest. I think (as Kev says) that the powder coating wearing off is a major cause of extra friction. I just wondered whether any new bits would lessen the problem?