VEEDUBBED
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Everything posted by VEEDUBBED
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Yes, you def. need the bolt that should have been included, i see that it also has holes in it as my spare one doesn't. That center bolt is essential as it's 18/24 where as the Volvo unit and the original Vw bolt are a constant diameter. Have you got the outlet pipes threaded unions, like those on the photo? obviously, you going to have to match the threads of the cooler itself and its relative pipework. The threaded unions could be BSP, JIC, AN, metric.. Was the rubber oil seal already on the Mocal plate when you bought it? Is there a cut-out on the housing the seal sits in? I'm asking because if you fit the plate onto your g60's filter take-off with the smooth end butted up the cast word 'Mocal' would be upside down, might mean nowt but normally the manufacturers name would be visible, it would look bodged too.. Make sure that the Mocal threaded pipe your gonna get has the same thread as the Vw oil filter too..
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I had a similar problem when I first fitted the sandwich plate I robbed off an old Volvo 740 turbo, in the end I found a fully threaded hollow pipe and used the Volvo's nut to secure the plate, never had any problems. The part with the rubber seal goes face up onto the filter housing whilst the smooth face is the oil filter end that's sealed by the oil filter's o-ring seal. I don't remember what car I got the short filter hollow tube off, it was years ago but if you can wait till tomorrow I'll get you a few photos of my engine with the sandwich plate fitted and I'll shoot a photo of the tube, I might even have a spare one I got made up. I forgot to ask, didn't the company provide you with the Mocal center bolt???
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Hi, fuel meter head too? Or just the airflow unit? Cheers.
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Cress, they are Absolute sods to remove mate, 99% of the time you so much as try turning the things they crack, believe me, I've done loads.. I'll check again if I have a good housing WITH the horrid manual adjuster still attached. Thing is that the plastic of the adjuster is just too brittle, guaranteed it'll break if you disturb it but if it's still attached they are normally fine. If I have the housing( I'm sure I do, somewhere amongst all the other spares) I'll include the two rubber bush things along with the housing. Get back to you tomorrow morning with more photos.
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Ah right, my bad, I didn't see the bit saying you had a few original ZF pumps..
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I tried but i can't get the thing to accept my phone, all it wants is computer downloads. what am i doing wrong? That pump looks quite different than my two i have on photo too, maybe just the colour that's confusing me. My pump's number is 357155C, ZF7691955117. 95Bar.
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Lancia delta integrale's version, the long BEHR version but even the 1.6 twin cam's one's good. Takes a fair bit of modification to fit though.
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Got at least 3, only problem is that I'm a see bit off the beaten track.. If you can't one locally, let me know. Cheers.
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If you can wait 'til tomorrow morning I'll snap a few shots of the 120 Amp Bosch vr alternator I've got spare. The number should still be readable on the black plastic cover.
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Jim, I've got you a load of photos, problem is that the forum's photo System won't allow me to upload, too many photos. Send me your email and I'll send them through.
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Yeah, both mine are original ZF, one on my engine and one off a Passat 2.9 ABV vr. Notice how the catalogue states 2.8 and not 2.9.. Might mean nowt but I wonder if the two were different. And check out that price, £200+ for remanufactured pump! New how much?
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I'll pop down the garage later on and photo a few spare ZF Vr6 pumps for you.
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Let's see if this kinda thing happens to either of you two who chimed in, then we'll see if you both sing along the same lines. Unfortunatly for me, this is the second time the exact same thing has happened, exactly the same problem with exactly the same parts, even the same 'effing side so if you'd excuse me for being a little ****ed off, as i just said, you'd do the same if faced with this same problem that i've had..TWICE. And let's not forget the little episode regarding the pocketed postage money that i lost that's been on the bad salesmen thread thanks to another forum member who went fukkin awol after, nothing to do with Thomas, but strange how nobody commented on that though.. Mistakes happen, granted and Thomas offered his apologies which i accept and i offer the same to him and am genuinely sorry for biting his head off as i saw red and didn't reason but anyone faced with the same problem would have done the same especially when it's YOU paying. Let's end it here, as i said above i'm very sorry to Tom for shouting out at him but all it takes is once to be stung by other fly-by-clowns (not Tom) and you naturally tend to tar everyone else with the same brush and i challenge anyone to differ.
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Cress, I might have a couple spare, I'll check tomorrow morning.
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That's gonna be a sod to repair.. That bit rarely breaks, it's always the 'finger/plunger' that snaps. The main problem is that it has a pressed in pin that's bigger than the other, smaller pins that secure the finger bit that opens the lock, which means that it's a sod to drill out and then secure it back in. I've done one or two but after a bit, the pin always backs out again leaving you as you were before.. I've got a few spare if you want to try and repair the handle, let me know and i'll pop one in the post. Almost forgot a very important bit, always grease the components throughly and make sure that the components move freely without any tight spots, some of those repair kits available on the net are utter crap. Also make sure that the door itself doesn't shut too tightly as this will also strain the mechanism alot, loosen the striker if ness.
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Sorry but i don't agree, when you sell something you check it first THEN write the description of what condition it's in, defects, bits missing etc. That's how i sell parts, i try and bend over backwards to help others, i' ve been screwed over too many times and i'm getting a bit ****ed off with it. It's not a question of not noticing an obvious defect that jumps out at you, how can you not notice it? You took the photos, right? I'll post back the item if you agree on paying the return postage, sound fair?
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Just a quick bump to add that i received the foglamp yesterday,and that my brother bought it over from the UK so atleast i managed to save on postage. The thing that ****s me off to the extreme is the fact that the foglamp has, other than the stated cracked lens,a broken off mounting lug and totally ****, rusted reflector. I think you forgot to mention these thing as nothing is mentioned on the for sale add and nothing mentioned in our PMs we sent and not visible on the photos either, if youd have photoed the foglamp upright, well, that would have been a completely different story.. THIS SHOULD HAVE BEEN MENTIONED BEFORE SELLING THE LAMP, which to me now is utterly ****ing useless. I've sold loads of bits over the years to loads of different corrado owners and never had a complaint from ANYONE, this **** is not on, especially from other forum members. Bollocks to it, now i've got it i'll have to keep it as it'll cost me to post it back down, getting PayPal involved bla, bla i can't be ****ing bothered and haven't got the time. Purple Tom, I'm not ****ing impressed and not happy.
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Not worth the hassle of just changing the motors by themselves Darren, Just carefully pull off the mirror glass and unscrew the entire mechanism from the mirror holder. If not, buy a can of contact cleaner or use WD40 and drown the entire unit, it should work. Are you getting 12v+ to the motors? could also be the mirror switch or its wiring connection at fault, mine did it a few times whilst hibernating for 7 years.. Let me know how you get on.
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Dazz, if i didn't throw them out already, i've Got a few busted mirrors i could get the motors off, if only you'd have mentioned it before, id have put them in with the headlamp..!
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Thanks David, 'bout time i learned how to..
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Not 100% sure mate, i did the conversion on My g60 around 10 years ago, swapped the TRW g60 rack with a ZF Rack i Got given free. Afairc, i think it was only the g60 racks that had 22 or 36 spleens cut on the uj's shaft, the ZF racks were all the same, again i could be wrong, it's been ages.. If you could send me Your email i could send you a few photos, buggered if i Know How to upload photos on the forum.
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I've Got a spare vr rack down in the garage, wait 'till later on and I'll check the uj's number fitted to the ZF steering rack.
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Payment sent Tom.
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I'll get back to you Tomorrow with My brother's address in the Uk, he recently moved so i'm not 100% sure. Thanks.
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Hi Tom, I'll take it mate, send me you PayPal details. Cheers-Andrew.