RW1

Looking at that VCDS ECU temp reading of 93'C it is in line with the dash temp gauge of what I have records for VR6 but not at stage 2 fan. And the dash dial is near enough to the coolant temp to say its reading roughly right. Stage 2 I'd expect to VCDS up at 99 - 101'C for the ECU. Stage 1 at about 97 - 98'C. Jumping 93 - 95 on the screen quite normal. Remind me.... thermostat housing is newish, do you know what thermostat was put in? And the other is whats the part number of the fan thermoswitch in the side wall of the radiator by the battery? (May have to come out if you can't read it off the brass body with a mirror.) Something is not adding up. The engine is running cool, suggesting a thermostat with wrong temp. And the fan kicking in at lower temp. An alternative radiator fan thermoswitch fitted?? This is the line of thought.......... Previous owner has lowered the operating temp of the cooling system????? Based on ............ 1 x 70'C thermos-stat from Dubpower.co.uk (Instead of 80'C standard unit) 1 x 1H0959481D (Low Temp version from http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/1477/Low_Temp_Fan_Switch_MK3_MK4) Description: Low temp factory plug in fan switch located in radiator, used in all applications from 1993 to 2002. 70-75'C stage 1, 77-82'C stage 2 Corrado VR6 1992 - 1995 (Instead of 1H0 919 481B working at 84-95'C stage 1, 91-102'C stage 2) And if this set up was in place, the after-run fan would never come on at 95/98'C. The temperaures on the temp. gauge would read 10'C lower approx.. BTW, nearly out at the same time down to Holmes Chapel. Never had the fans today anywhere, no after-run fan. Engine running cooler by about 1'C to 2'C on water temp. due to it being cooler day. Only hit 106'C max instead of 108'c-110'C oil temp., typically 104'C at 65mph down the A34 to south of Alderley Edge by-pass. Water rock solid all the time at 92'C everywhere, fast or slow. .

Shouldn't be in possession of it if he can't. :) Car vibration would let that move, not unusual when static. .

Well that is strange as bridging the connector at the yellow temp sensor with no ignition proves the wiring and fan controller are OK as the fan ran. The sensor you bought needs checking in a pan of hot boiling water to see if the thermo-switch is making circuit. Across pins 1 & 4. But before you do that, I would like to know the blue sensor coolant temp reading the ECU uses when the fans kick in. Needs VCDS Measuring Block Group 001, 3rd field. .

Removing the blue temp puts into maintenance mode. Starting engine if it stalls without reconnecting the blue temp puts it into emergency mode. If started with the blue connector disconnected, then stop, reconnect it and restart the engine before again performing the procedure above. .

The ABS & EDL valves will be in their relaxed state. Top two bleed points next to the black ABS motor body should not come into it. Right approach to fill the pipes up. Also minimise outward flow from the ABS block connection while it is open. Connect up. Because the ABS & EDL valve are in the relaxed normal pisition, its just like you have joined the master cylinder pipe to the 2nd brake pipe to the rubber hose with a very large joining block. So open the wheel caliper bleed nipple and bleed out until all bubbles are absent. About 250ml of brake fluid should do it at any wheel, bit less on the fronts. Just as a normal non-ABS brake system. I think you will find when you open the two bleed nipples on top, only fluid will sweep out as that part is not affected by what you have broken down in the system. Important bit is not to let the ABS valve block drain itself as that WILL empty and be very hard to refill without a pressure rig for the purpose. .

Does the after-run fan work now? .

Pin 2 to 3 is measuring air temp in the duct not flow. Which is why I gave you temperature points. Pin 1 to 3 is a control circuit to the ecu, results in setting CO level. - Warm engine at idle. - All electrical loads OFF (ie. inside fan, lights radio etc. Bare minimum electrics on) - Crankcase breather hose pulled off pressure regulator and routed so that only fresh air can be drawn in. - Connector Blue, 2 pin for coolant temperature sender pulled off with engine running. (If you stall the engine during CO adjustment/Idle adjustment, the Blue connector must be reconnected to the coolant temp sender before re-starting the engine and come back to this point and follow the instructions again below) - Radiator fan must not run. - Setting the CO needs an analyser (obviously), - Rev the engine 3 times over 3,000 rpm and back below in very quick succession. - ECU ready to learn. - Turn the pot clockwsie to increase CO level, anti-clockwise to decrease. Aim for 0.5% - 0.7%. - use the idle screw to keep rpm at roughly 750 rpm - 850 rpm while doing the CO adjustments. - Keep alternating adjustment of the CO/idle speed until idle speed/CO level is acheived. - CO set? Set idle to 800 rpm. - Rev the engine 3 times over 3,000 rpm and back below in very quick succession. - ECU values now accepted. - Reconnect the blue temp connector. - Reconnect the breather hose. - Check idle & CO are still as set. - Job done. .

OK, this way then, this way.... - Disconnect the connection to the sensor. - Put a DVM resistance across sensor pin 2 (as Blue/White stripe on loom) and pin 3 (as Brown/White Stripe on loom) - Measure the resistance, assuming it is at 15'C - 20'C surrounding air temp, should be 2.5k to 3k ohm. Note it. - Now freeze it, the resistance reading should rise beyond 6k ohm (0'C point is 6K ohm approx) - Or warm it up and it should start lowering, towards 200 ohm. Sensor not OK, new one. Now the adjustment..... - Across Sensor pin 1 (as Blue wire on loom) and pin 3 (as Brown/White Stripe on loom) - Resistance should vary from 0 to 2K ohm across its full travel. Resistance doesn't vary, new sensor. As before, not getting these check the same wires... - Brown/White stripe to earth. - Black/White stripe to ECU pin 9 plus - Blue goes to pin 5 on ECU. .

Its a temperature sender. You can read its temperature output in VCDS, group 000, 1st field on the left side. If a 1992 G60. - Ignition ON. - Remove the sender. - VCDS to Measuring Blocks (08), select Group 000. - Note the reading in the 1st field. - Spray the sender with electronics chilling spray from aerosol. - At the same time, watch the 1st field, its value must rise. - Exit VCDS, ignition OFF. Not responding?? New sensor. If VCDS doesn't show a rising value, then check wires are OK - Brown/White stripe to earth. - Black/White stripe to ECU pin 9 .

Found my final source of a leak. Nothing to do with the crank seal. Although the evidence on the front block by the gearbox bell housing suggested that it was leaking. Turn out there is still a small leak from the timing chain cover split, right in the corner by the engine block behind the thermostat housing. Not visible due to its location and all the cooling pipes etc. But no evidence of how it gets down to the bottom really visible. And its not coming down the inside of the housing where the clutch is. Appears to travel down the joint edge between the gearbox and engine block on the outside. The spinning flywheel appears to be whipping up this oil from the front right corner of the engine block into the gearbox bell housing, making look like the crank seal was the source. Blocked off the path from the outside by jamming a piece of folded kitchen towel inbetween the front end of the gearbox cover plate and the lip of the engine block. I had cleaned off oil inside the bell housing area and it did not return but collected on the outside half of the towel, nothing from the inside edge. Back tracking the leak's possible oil path up the engine block, managed to trapped fresh oil from the minute flow by using a well placed kitchen towel up behind the thermostat housing. On the face of it, there appears to be no leak by visual examination, so it was easily missed. Damp patches on the gearbox had dried up when I found the front one of two allen head bolts to holding the timing chain case halves slightly loose and smarting out oil. So having sorted that and applying a little sealant, the drying out of the main flow suggested I had stopped that leak. Obviously not quite! .

A few things as I believe "no spark" needs sorting first...... 1) Voltmeter time...... There is a totally black wire of 3 that goes to the connector on the coil. Pull off the connector, switch on the ignition and check its got battery volts on it of around 12 volts. Thats the coil supply. Switch off the ignition. 2) Now in resistance mode, check the Brown wire is going to earth on the coil connection. 3) Disconnect the ECU connector and check pin 8 goes to the black with red stripe on the coil connection of 3 wires - middle pin. Reconect the coil connection. 4) Switch on the ignition with the ECU still disconnected. Check pin 38 has battery 12 volts. On pin 23 check for battery 12 volts. Switch off ignition. 5) At the ECU connector, check pin 54 has battery 12 volts without the ignition switched on. 6) On pins 1, 55 & 56 all go to earth. Reconnect the ECU conector. 7) On the dizzy connection, check the brown with black strip goes to earth. Reconnect. All OK??? So all the 12 volt supplies & earths are present to the coil/dizzy/ECU and feed from relay 109 at the ECU end. 8.) Then disconnect the engine main multi-wire connector on the back left top corner. Twisting collar action. Check for push back pins in the connector & socket. Spray with WD40 and wipe off excess. Reconnect and try starting if the battery is not below 12 volts. .

If its there, in the engine bay near the starter look for a loose single connector with a Blue with White stripe wire. Ends up at a connector behind the fuse/relay plate. If it carries on to the centre console, its a Blue with Yellow stripe wire. .

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49150[/ATTACH] .

I'd try the 109 relay again once the battery has had a good charge. (And you will need to keep an eye on it for being above 10 volts in future.) If not that, I thinking of just probing around at certain points on the car to see if 12 volts is present. Off out, but if after the charge and things still don't work, I will post few simple points to check just eliminate. Not as complicated as the earlier coil checks. .

How's the battery charge at the moment? Below 10 volts when cranking the engine, it won't start anyway. You any good with measuring simple voltages at certain points? .

Usually the gearbox sender. Part Number 191 919 149 D for a VR6. Sit on the top of the gearbox just belwo the ABS unit. Plug is 3 wires. .

I think the fuel pump relay 67 or 167 depending how its marked on the top face is OK. ie, no fault thrown, and they would have seen that. I get it in winter storage as I take it out for dry cranking and also security. Have to clear the fault code each spring. . ---------- Post added at 10:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:47 PM ---------- Standard position on the fuse/relay plate. The relay in the 3rd from left, 2nd relay row up above fuses where 109 is in the photo is the ECU relay. No matter whether early or late VR6. .

Ha, a Storm owner had me called out this afternoon, my time may have to become premium rated. lol Job done..... Here, it has 109 printed on the top face. Part number 357 906 381A or if its been replaced, it could be 1J0 906 381 A without a 109 stamped on top but in the same position as the one marked 109 in the photo. [ATTACH=CONFIG]49139[/ATTACH] .

If its the fuel pump relay, it shows as fault 01259, so th eECU thinks that is connecting the pump by being absent. Can't find anywhere what the electrician found with coil checking??? .

I would take out each brake light bulb. And sub a replacement. Its sometimes the way a dual filament bulb fails. .

Got this in the post with my SORN diocument [ATTACH=CONFIG]49125[/ATTACH] .

I hope they knew the Engine Speed sensor code 00513 is present when the ignition is switched on and engine stopped. Unlike more modern VW's its not surpressed in the fault memory until the engine has started or is turning rapidly on the starter. So until the engine is turning, the fault code is present but it does not necessarily mean the sensor is faulty unless they do the testing as below when using VCDS software. It means they have to dynamically look for the code as VCDS does not refresh its fault code display page. That means not entering the VCDS fault code screen until the engine is cranking continuously. On entry to the VCDS fault code screen, VCDS will interrogate the ECU fault memory there and then. They should have looked at the VCDS fault code screen once the engine has started cranking and not before the start of the cranking. If the code is not present, its OK. If the code is present on entry to the VCDS fault code screen once the engine has started cranking, then the sensor has gone u/s. This is the only way to analyse this fault code when there is a faulty engine speed sensor as ECU fault memory interrogation is not continuous, VCDS takes a frozen snapshot. .

Not had the fuse relay plate out recently? Take a look at teh earth stud in there for two earths being loose or the metal multipoint being loose. Also, check the two door pins switches in the door pillar for sticking/broken earth wire. .

If you have disconnected the battery at some point (or don’t know from the previous owner) and not done “Basic Settings” on the Throttle, then the ECU does not know where exactly the Throttle position is, essential near idle will be critical to stop the stall ........ (That’s why in the Wiki, the ECU reset has to be performed in full after the Engine ECU has lost 12 volt power at any time.) BTW, Not advisable to bump start a VR6 Engine at speed (or due to flat battery/no starter) cos the Chain Tensioners could have gone slack and therefore before the oil pressure can re-pressurise the tensioners, the chains can jump a cog on the Camshaft Drive Sprockets with terminal consequences to valves and piston crowns. 1) Get hold of VCDS and do Basic Settings on the engine ECU on Group 000 or 001 as per the wiki "ECU Reset", ie. which ECU is fitted by part number governs which Group Number to use. No need to the first part of disconnecting the battery and 10 minute drive, this is not about lambda setting. You can do Basic Settings on the engine ECU anytime - harmonises the Throttle Potentiometer Sender. This is providing the mechanical throttle stop hasn't been adjusted! (There is a paint mark over the stop screw which should be intact if its not been adjusted.) And the Throttle Potentiometer Sender is sound by checking with a very slow sweep (Accelerator Pedal press) of the full sweep and observing the reading in VCDS Measuring Blocks is progressive and not jumpy. Not 100% check but good enough. Throttle Checks: .... 2) - Run the engine at idle when warmed up and generally idling at 680rpm. - VCDS to 01 Engine ECU Measuring Block Group 003, field 3. - At idle the Throttle Body Angle should be between 9º - 19º, ideally 13º/14º. It can be done with out running the Engine, just Ignition ON but as this area is the problem, better to look at the dynamic reading with air flow. It should the same with and without the Engine runing. - Exit VCDS (to prevent lock up of software). 3) - Stop the Engine & turn the Ignition back ON. - VCDS to Engine ECU Measuring block Group 003, field 3 again. - Floor the accelerator pedal and hold. - The reading should be between 94º and 101º, ideally 97º/98º with the Accelerator Pedal held fully down. - Exit VCDS & turn off the Ignition. Nothing changed due to Basic Settings or Throttle angle readings have been found to be OK? Then, this is not the problem. Would then look at the Throttle Damper replacement first and Throttle Potentiometer Sender having a poor sliding contact track around the idle position. Change of parts unfortunately with risk it won't fix it. ---------------------------------------------- Throttle Mechanics: If VCDS Throttle Angles measurements not within the to the above VCDS Throttle Angle readings tolerances above: ......... (Best with the coil pack end, rear & top engine covers removed to perform these adjustments.) (The checks can be done without removing the rear cover but access is slightly limited.) * Adjust the Throttle Damper position for Throttle Idle position. - Engine stopped. - At the Damper Stop Plunger, make sure it is just contacting the small roller on the throttle valve arm. (This needs to be held by hand, the throttle is not hard onto the Throttle Stop ) - Now measure the gap with a feeler gauge (or 3mm drill bit) between the stop adjuster screw next just ahead of the Throttle Damper and on the rearside of the Throttle Spindle with Spring and its Throttle stop. It should be a 2.5mm - 3.5mm gap, ideally 3mm. -If not in this range, adjust the Throttle Damper ( not the Throttle Stop Screw) with the 3mm feeler or 3mm drill bit jammed in between Throttle Stop and Throttle Adjuster Screw. - Set the Damper Stop Plunger just touches the roller without force present and no more. The roller should just be able to rotate by finger with hardly any friction. Do this using the Damper's lock nut and the threaded rod on the rear of the Damper. Now recheck the Throttle idle position with VCDS as above at 2). * Adjust the Throttle Cable Tension for full throttle. - Engine stopped. - Push the Accelerator Pedal fully down while a 2nd person observes the throttle in the engine bay. The Throttle should stop moving as the Accelerator Pedal fully floors and Throttle cannot be opened further at the Throttle Body. It should not however put the Throttle Cable under strain by reaching Throttle Body fully open position while the Accelerator Pedal can be pressed further. - Adjustment is performed by locating the C clip on the plastic body of the Throttle Cable where it attaches to the Throttle Body (located under the rear engine cover). Move the C clip to a new position until the Accelerator Pedal fully depressed also achieves full throttle open position at the Throttle Body. This avoids straining the cable. Now recheck the Full Throttle position with VCDS as above at 3). If adjustments are made, it will be necessary to perform “Basic Settings” again as detailed at 1). .

Start looking at the Clutch Slave cylinder first, then the Master Clutch cylinder. So if you find the above Slave and Master cylinders are sound, then the Slave cylinder maybe pushing on nothing to release the clutch plate from the flywheel. In the extreme, the clutch pressure diaphram fingers inside the clutch mechanism may have been broken or the Clutch Lever Arm has become bent. .