RW1

Yup, there'll be a little bit of dust from those moaning on here. Try facing the Clubs bank when the Chairman runs off with the funds. It was no joke in that bank manager's office in 2003. So either lend a hand or accept others spared (free) time that provides YOU with a club service. .

Late. Made end of 3rd week of March 1992. .

Don't use the German order form on the German part of the site for on-line ordering, despite it having a GB option. Doesn't work. Use the German part to find out what is available. Note the part number unless you already have. Bear in mind if the availability option below or the photo illustrated pages don't have, then they don't have! Do it this way...... Click the English top right. Then either order via two ways, use the contact form on the contact/order line" screen (in the middle of screen) requesting the part number you want or use the "Availability Check" and select the option "without registration". Follow either through. Email confirmation follows they have received your request. A day later you will then get an an email with the quotation. Put your Credit car details on the quotation, ie. ..... Card Provider (Mastercard or other etc.), your name as on the credit card, credit card number, expiry date and sign it. Fax it or scan & email or ring them up (They are very polite and will speak perfectly good English with you). Wait and it arrives arrives at the door. Maybe I have a privileged account to get 4 days but its always that. NB, Two of the staff have been off ill for the last 10 days, so things are most likely not happening as quickly as usual due to backlog of customer orders. . ---------- Post added at 08:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:59 PM ---------- Note the shop hours and 5pm finish at Central Euro Time ie -1 hour in the UK. Also note the above about staff. It is best to send the request form/use the availability screen, even in good times :wink: .

Just gone to http://www.vw-classic.net/ via online UK sales tab 6.10 euro + 3.53 euro P&P + 1.83 euro 19% VAT = 11.48 euro = ~£9.81 Ordered last tweek, delivered to the door by VW's DHL factory delivery service, 4 days. Job done! .

- No battery disconnect. VCDS: - Engine 01 ECU controller, - Select Basic Settings on Group 000, - Blip the throttle for engine to 3,000 rpm, - Leave idling for 1+ minute. - Group 000 field 9 should be or acheive value 5. - Exit Basic Settings. .

If you have the bottom two elements working, then there is 12 volts and earth present. So no need to check out the car wiring and voltage feed. As the cross window elements work and its the two bottom ones, it can be assumed by the nature that they are the furthest away from the central edge connections that the two vertical busbar strips on each side of the window are OK and working I think you are looking at a sweeping scratch which has severed all the cross elements except the bottom two. Use a magifying glass. They can be hairline or less in size. They can be repaired using a HRW paint repair kit from a motor factors. The repairs, if repaired well, can last for years. - What you do is locate the cross strip track's cuts on the glass. - Clean with Isopropyl Alcohol (no deposits from the alcohol left after cleaning) - Place brown thin packing tape above and below the affected area so the gap between the two tape edges is more or less the same as the HRW area you are repairing. Don't let the packing tape stick to any of the HRW cross elements as they are fragile and the tape sticking then lifting off can break them. - Paint on the HRW repair paint as a short strip across the damaged area. You only need to bridge the damaged point. The paint will make electrical circuit with the brown HRW window element as its applied. - Before it is fully dry, peel the two tapes, each at a time in the direction of the window sides and at angle close to the glass, ie. more or less back on itself. This will ensure the paint is not disturbed and cos not dry, it will stay on the damaged HRW element area while the overpainted tape area easily rips away. The more it dries, the more chance the whole area of applied HRW paint will come away as a whole and you acheive no repair. - Do one at a time. Then move onto the next, working down the window so you don't disturb repairs that have been done and are now drying. - Allow 24 hours to dry. - After 24 hours, test. .

All covered here.... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?58046-Strange-stalling-problem&p=742922&highlight=throttle+damper#post742922 VR6's are sensitive to fuel pressure in their standard form. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed located on the underbody near the rear right wheel? .

Nope, thats the rad fan switch for stage 1 & 2. Thermostat for the engine, inside the housing just above the gearbox and below & forward of the coil pack or distributor (depending which you VR6 you have) Water pump is on the engine block right side behind the alternator where the belt is. The pulley is visible just level with the end of the airbox/strut housing. teirod69 is OK for that pump. .

Just had similar and changed out a lazy thermostat. It was opening late but the whole movement worked in a pan of water. So for given water temp, the opening was narrower so was tending to hold hot coolant in the block. The other characteristic was the radiator fan stage 1 was coming on at anything between 98'C & 110'C (Dash Gauge reading) depending which day it was driven. Once fixed, runs a t 90'C +1'C all the time and the rad fan stage 1 is on at 98'C bang on each time and the water coolant is held at 90'C level on the dash gauge. .

Look at 2.0 ltr 8v's, not many around. .

Yes, that aspect of the switch hasn't changed for the electrical current flow path so the red lamp sysmbol in the new switch will extinguish as before with the original. The likelyhood of it happening is greatly reduced due to there being no filament lamp heat generated, which is the source of the problem. Putting the LED in there was very sensible and heat may well have been the reason beside longivity. The heat makes the top internal plastic arm lever go brittle and so the internal switch plate skews and shorts. And also in the original VW Germany switch there was a manufacturing solder defect possible which if you fitted a spare "new" replacement from VW caused a short into the Brown earth wire. But the mechanics of the switch are the same so if one of the two internal plastic lever arms is broken due to material failure, the skewing of the internal switch plate will be isolated if it shorts to the Brown earth wire in the loom. .

That makes sense, refers to the pre or post face lift. ie. flat or bulbous bonnet. I use it on certain occassions. And no! It didn't ask the Q on Ebay :) .

Check the volts of each side of windows connections, not across the conections, but one side of the voltmeter to earth on the body. If no volts, switch the HRW switch off and check each window connection for circuit to earth. One will show 12 volts. The other will show direct connection to earth. If one is missing, check the 12 volt feed wire in the loom as it enters from the Bodyshell into the tailgate. Inside the leggy rubber gaitor, particulary where the wire passes over the Bodyshell lip. The 12 volts passes out of the Bodyshell on the White wire. The earth is a Brown wire which is hooked up to the common earth point on the Spoiler Frame inside the Tailgate. If the Lights & Spoiler are working, then the earth through the tailgate loom from the Bodyshell is OK. Check the earth wire is connected to the Spoiler Frame common earthing point. The fuse is No. 9 - 20 amps. .

535 857 543 - Base (not handed) .

Does nothing for the Corrado. ECU full reset as per wiki .

Well if your loopy, then you will have to have this to complete the set...... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-DIAVIA-VW-AUTO-AIR-CONDITIONER-MAINTENANCE-BOOK-/250811209800?pt=US_Nonfiction_Book&hash=item3a65835848 .

Fitted with aircon? Somebody has retro-fitted the Evaporator in the dash air distribution box at some stage with an after market air conditioning system. Part of the retro-fit as all Corrado's in the UK were, probably Diavia Air Con Part. LHDrive is this item in the air box - 357 820 103D. evaporator with expansion valve evaporator with expansion valve for refrigerant: / R134A for refrigerant: / R134A .

00280 - Valve 2 for Electronic Diff Lock (Traction Control) Cause: Faulty cable wire in circuit (external or internal to valve block). Electrical Plug Connector - valve block body. Valve coil. Looks like the problems lies inside the ABS/EDL valve block with the wiring to the valve block. .

Yes, its fairly lean. Tip: I wrote it into the VCDS Label file (021-906-258.lbl) inside VCDS which drives the screen labelling, so you don't have to remember which way. Just check the file contents by using Windows Notepad. Leak if there is one, is after the MAF but before the throttle usually. Bellows on the curve in the bottom of folds is the place to have a good look. ..

+2 4th paragraph http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?58983-VR6-problems&p=753377#post753377 It will get there eventually............... but it take a lot of miles *,000's. .

As Steve says..... they don't come with holes pre-cut. Never have done to my knowledge and that applies to most VW wings I've seen of the Corrado/Scirocco MK1/2 era. Reason.... older models in the life cycle of some models don't have side indicators, some export markets don't have side indicators, so they make it easy for production not to punch the holes plus reduced number of operations = a production cost saving. Instead there is a template dimensions/position for the local bodyshop to do it. As its the two holues being correct for the side indicator being right otherwise it won't fit well or the indicator unit is broken when fitting. .

They are all marked 80'C including the original 11/94 unit. Don't forget, dash gauge accuracy, so the readings are relative. Stage 1 fan operates again consistantly at 98'C coolant where previously with the lazy ones, the switched on point of each was anything between 98'C & 110'C. No two days being the same! .

Don't know what the B&B thermostat is like but I've just bought three VW ones last month. Two were like the original that came out with the engine running at 94'C coolant typically and the oil temp running at 102'C - 104'C but if you ran motorway speed at 70/75mph, it rose to 112'C - 114'C and struggled badly to cool off at lower speeds afterwards. The lazy/slow/tired thermostat came to light after doing a VCDS logged drive for VR6Lee's topic. Finally got one which runs at 90'C + 1'c at any speed/load and oil at 98'C typically rising to 102'C/104'C at motorway speeds of 70/75mph. The VW thermostat batch which all three came from is dated 02/11. At twenty odd pound a pop, thats poor. I know they vary, but two no better than the existing one giving me a little problem was not an improvement. The Corrado is now back to how it was upto two years ago on temperatures. Engine is more relaxed and not hot and bothered as its been recently since being brought out of winter storage this spring. Another factor thats helped is putting in G11 coolant again. [Available at Halfords as Comma G48. Its BASF's "Glysantin G48" which is VW's G11 in all but name. BASF were/are the suppliers to VW for G11 as the others (G12, G12+ (- Glysantin G30) & G12++ (- Glysantin G40) http://www.glysantin.de/20-1-Know-How.html. Comma market them all under their own labelling but mark clearly the G number.] .

Not had this kit but deal with teirod69 regularly. What I find is the parts he supplies on other items as usually OEM supplier but without the the VW quality stamp on them. .

Measure all the plug leads and make sure they are 5Kohm from cap connection to coil pack connection. Whilst it may look like coil packs, maybe the lead that the arc is near is higher resistance and so the spark is taking an easier path to earth. .