RW1

Its as written in the procedure. It is not like the motorised later throttle aka later Mk3 Golf or the later "ADY" 8v Corrado which has a motorised idle. Basic Settings places the ECU into a specific offset condition from which the engine sensors can be measured. The ECU needs to know where the idle position is on the C. VR6 throttle by reading the Throttle Position Sender. Without this being done, the ECU works just on the MAF and ignores the Throttle Position Sender signal. Hence the stalling. Due to tolerances, its not always apparent there is anything different and on some, they don't stall. There isn't a positive "I've done it" if thats what you are looking for. You just let it sit idling for the prescribed time of 2 minutes or more. The time in Basic Settings mode specified is a minimum and the oil temperature has to be above 80'C. The last time I did it last weekend, I left the engine running in Basic Settings for 10 minutes, but 2 minutes minimum after the throttle blip is quite sufficient and it shouldn't be less than 2 minutes. There is no upper time limit. The procedure I wrote states 85'C to ensure instrument error is avoided. Basic Settings is part of the 10,000 miles service when the service is carried out in full at VW. Doesn't matter how many times it is done as long as the procedure I wrote thats in the Wiki is followed and the correct Measuring Block is selected for the engine ECU fitted while doing it. As it says in the procedure, doing only the 1 part, ie. the drive , is a waste of time. Its acheives nothing and in fact can make the engine driveability even worse in some cases. The battery disconnect is not necessary unless the MAF or ISV or Lambda Probe or Throttle Position Sender is changed. With the battery being disconnected, then you do the drive in the 10 minutes while the ECU is in coarse adjustment "learning" mode where it sets up such items as the Lambda stored readings for idle, mid throttle & full throttle in Measuring Block 6 fields 2, 3 & 4. (NB. Disconnecting the battery for other reasons such as storage or maintenance on the Corrado, means it needs the drive sequence & Basic Settings.) After the 10 minutes, coarse adjustment of parameters stops and the ECU continues to adjust in a very fine adjustment to compensate for petrol quality/brands or the Lambda changing due to age. Aim being to keep emissions as good as possible. PS. If I don't do B.S. on mine after a battery reset, it stalls at junctions or in one case at 55 mph in a sharp left turn while changing down a gear. Not much fun with no power steering at the time! .

If you haven't connected VCDS then you haven't done the ECU reset properly. You need to do the Basic Setting part. That sets up the throttle with the ECU. If you don't, one of the effects is cutting out as you describe. There is no need to disconnect the battery and do the driving part again. Thats sorted. Just warm the engine oil up past 80'C and do the Basic Settings procedure part with the correct ECU measuring block selected. .

Mine arrived! Really well made and worth it. And the postal packaging certainly protects a full set well!! Credit Mr. B. You are a star! A very happy bunny. .

AKL 433 012 02 (Clear Tape 1.2cm x 2metres) £6.18 + VAT = £7.42 1 roll in stock at VW UK. .

Was looking at mine the other day and noting it looked like a winter storage job to do. And use up the old tape I'd previously bought last time I did it. The tape is an anti-chafe tape so that the door rubber does not rub the paint away on the door frame. Its part number is AKL 433 012 02. The spares are made by 3M. Most likely one of their clear acrylic tapes with pressure sensitive adhesive which is resistant to automotive fluids. As well as fluids, the bodyshell temperature on a sunny day has to be withstood As above 1.2cm wide by 2metres on a roll from VW and it wasn't cheap. Its the adhesive type used that makes it expensive to be resistive to fluids and temperature. Any wider than 1.2cm and there are problems with following the door frame curve as well as the extra width having to bend up the frame on the inside side of the door rubber position. Extra width will just end up wrinkling. Bad enough trying to get the 1.2cm width right over the length of the frame run last time. Finding an alternative is easy, the hard part is one whose backing adhesive does not melt on a hot day and the tape moves as the door rubber pushes up against it. After a few door closes, it could look a mess again. VW's still available? - dunno as bought the tape stock about 10 years ago. Should be as it is not special to the Corrado. .

The two larger washers with a rubber lip on the inside lip are known as Dowty Washers. Be aware, there are many rubber types fitted/used in these washers and you need to buy the type resistant to automotive liquids, ie oil & petrol. I bought these recently from Eire as much cheaper than VW. Supplied by a Saab dealer. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150660981739?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 The guy is sound and delivery was 3 days to Manchester from South Eire. Asked for the pack to be all as M14 size (size required) by contact as the auction requests. Plumbing ones you can get at a local merchant look the same but are not fuel proof. The other two washers used at the other end of the filter are straight forward compression washers. .

Yes, the only threaded part the nut itself. The rest is a bare tube. .

Similar words when I priced it as a running spare 3 weeks ago. And VW Heritage .de want 73.70 euros + 19% VAT plus delivery = 105 euros = roughly £92. A lot of spares jumped up with VW % increase plus the VAT going 15% to 20% .

£79 + VAT now = £95. .

I was referring to the main belt driven pump in the right side of the engine. Second or Auxiliary pump is on the same level immediately behind the coil pack. If leaking same as the thermostat housing area, top of the gearbox should be awash. BTW didn't see the last post about the O ring on the rad switch ........ 1st call definitely as its the wrong type of seal to do the job, let alone it being B&Q. If you can find a red coloured fibre flat seal in B&Q that fits, that is loads better to use as there's no containment for the O ring to stop is being forced out sideways, hence why its a flat firbre washer in there or compressible metal ring type. .

Rad switch about £26 from VW, Part 1H0959481B for yours. Should come with a seal. If not, part N043 808 3 fits and does the job @ £1.36. The seal is a flat hard card compressible type. Switch is a 29mm size socket. Genuine Rad switches NOS-OEM can be picked up off Ebay. I've just picked up two recently for £25. They didn't come with sealing washers though. TBH if its 1.5 pints ie. nearly a litre out of 7 that you typically fill a well drained system, you have a major leak and sensors/thermostat housing areas should be awash. The first two places to really examine are the back of the header tank bottle and over the are adjacent to the ABS valve block by the nearside inner wing. Suspect a header cap or crack header tank. The second is the water pump gland drain on the water pump body, a little round hole in the body of the pump. In either case, run the engine to stage 1 fan and take a good look to see whats coming out under pressure. The other is a split hose and that will also show with the system hot and pressured. .

Since the battery is the new item in the circuit.....How about just charge the battery up on a charger and leave standing. See it it is holding its charge. ie. after a few hours off charge at 4 hours it should settle at around 12.75 volts cos its new. If lower at say 12.25 volts after 8 hours, then the battery is internally discharging. At least you can eliminate the battery one way or the other. . .

I ordered and got two overnight at the dealers 2 weeks ago. They were dusty. May the stock has run out for the time being. .

1995 16v. Runing a standard OEM suspension or modified, if modified how? Just shocks or lowered? .

Take a look at the duct between the MAF and Throttle Body, particulalry the bellows for a split in the creases. Look for an air leak. .

You have to take into account the overnight temperatures are lower as well. So the block is not as warm. Surprising what a difference it makes. Overnight was 3'C last night where as last week it was 16'C. Daily has taken almost twice as long today to get to fully warm compared with last week. Oil last week usually was 89'C in the 1.4, today it could only make 85'C. I don't know if its still available as its vintage is c1980's aerosol tin of Holts - Rubber & Nylon Lubricant. ETA: Just checked. Yes it is : http://www.wilcodirect.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1208 .

Sure its not just the weather temperature change. My daily suddenly stopped warming up as quickly on Monday because the air temps dropped from 16'C to 6'C. Not tried the Corrado yet as the thermostat housing is off to change out a lazy thermostat (running tad hot). Hot water in Pan test has confirmed. Interestingly, another 8 year old spare thermostat I have wasn't working properly so the VW wax stats are not good and may age??? Took my Thermostat Housing off in an hour. The tools made it easy, 1/4" socket ratchet socket drive, 5mm allan key insert, short ratchet extension and a hose pipe clip tool that looks like VW's official tool (see below). The latter makes the clip removal a five minute job. Hoses off by applying a little squirt of window silicon lubricant under the hose so it frees off the plastic pipe/rubber hose connection. [ATTACH=CONFIG]49759[/ATTACH] Bought mine for £15 at GTI Inters a while back. For the jobs its done, well worth the cost paid. Got it off one of those stalls that sells all sorts of tools you see at a lot of shows. They are available on EBAY, search "Hose Clip Tool". Use to be £15 on there but I see today thats more like £25 - £30. Still worth it as a tool for access to clips like the position of the middle hoses green clip. The carrier at the end of the bowden cable just slides on the clip and squeeze, then move the clip. There is a holding rachet mechanism. .

Here's the part...... [ATTACH=CONFIG]49758[/ATTACH] The reason it blows is because it is a filament bulb. Blows due to age or an indication of a slack alternator belt causing momentary alternator surge voltages. Looks like a LED doesn't it, even down to the kinked leg.... but in fact you can apply the voltage either way round to its terminals with a 1.5volt battery, it will work both ways and it gives a low orange glow. Can't reverse the voltage connections with a LED as its a diode. Apply higher and it glows white. A diffuser coating on the glass bulb helps light dispersion to look like a LED in operation. Inside you can see a coiled filament. Yes, back in the old days in the early 1980's the blue LEDs didn't exist when the dash technology was developed, VW opted for a small bulb with coloured cap. For all dashes from 1985 through to the mid 1990's they all used this part. So even the Corrado's dash has to use the common spare as above. From 1981 to 1984 it was an amber LED but that caused confusion on dash instruments at night where there was an vacuum driven MPG meter with an identical amber LED change up indicator just above the main beam indication. (The number of times I dropped my Mk2 Scirocco out of gear when putting main beam on for a dark country lane, only to realise it wasn't the change up indicator but the main beam warning .... doh. Thats why VW had to drop the amber LED and used a blue cap filament bulb originally plus it didn't conform to the standard indication colour of blue [main reason].) There is also a 357 919 062A version for some dashes, the two wire legs differ but not used on any Corrado's. .

Nice one Wullie. @Haribo: See that photo which is pulling off the rectangular panel cover just under the fuel gauge. Do that. Then extract the busted Main Beam blue cap lamp forwards out of its position. Replace by pushing in the replacement you are getting. Then put the small reactangular panel back in place and put the Instrument Cluster together again. (The bulb in the black holder is not the item you are buying. What will arrive is a unit "looking" like a LED but on close examination you will see its pigmy bulb with two wires and a translucent blue cap. Don't bend the wire legs. The wire length contacts the foil printed circuit board when pushed in. Its a point contact edge on. Any kinks in the wire legs may prevent it touching the copper contact points on the foil PCB and cause intermitant illumination or none at all.) .

357 919 062 Lamp with a blue cap cover. Usually a push fit. Cluster needs taking apart. .

That play would be sufficient to cause you problems as described. There's no separate end piece to the cable change so new cable or securing bolt or both to remove the play. Depends what wear you find when you take it apart. Could start by replacing the cable eye bolt if its not the one with the shift weight attached to it. The plain bolt is M8 (x 1mm fine pitch) x 32mm long. Should be able to get that locally to try out, probably 30mm long. .

Thanks. :thumbleft: .

What were the typical changes in actual temps with the water & oil ? .

Ah yes, mileage..... MPG uses the wheels..... none standard wheel /tyre profiles will make a nonsense of the dash readings and you can't use brim to brim also as the odometer is registering incorrectly if wheels/tyre combos are not the correct circumference (distance). And tyres even within a spec eg 215/50x15 will vary by 2cm in diameter between manufacturers. The circumference is Pi times diameter. Thats 3.1415 x 2cm per revolution possible differences. Have fun. All a bit relative. .

Some of the extract is on the doorstep! http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?270-VR6-Tech-Info&highlight=vr6+study+402 Under "Engine Cooling System". The text has omitted some of the information contained in the SSP402 (USA). You shouldn't be surprised at "heat losses" in pipes. A good example is the pipe cooler for the Corrado's power steering in the bumper frame. So they are using the heater core to dump heat when the main mechanical pump is not running. Temperature drop is most likely enough to dissipate the localised heat by sending into the rubber pipes & core in the afterrun mode. In normal mode with main pump running, its making sure the coolant is servicing the head. Maybe so but the engine has to operate in several enviroments/countries, so they compromise on a design to cope with most markets to reduce scale costs of production. May not make a difference in the UK but elsewhere at say 40'C air temperatures, VW will have seen problems during development. And the dash temp gauage is only one spot in the engine. The only other one that can used is the two radiator thermoswitches in the radiator and they are only a basic crude piece of information. So goodness knows what is going on in the cylinder head. .