RW1

The problem is not where you think it is....... Its the gearbox itself. There is the gearbox input selector shaft (02A 301 233 F) and its mounting housing (02A 301 231H - gearshift housing) on the top of the gearbox. That is the component that the gear change cables connect to on top of the gearbox. The reversing light switch sit on top of it. It goes up/down to select across the gate in the centre console, Fully depressed is R stroke line, fully up is 5th stroke line. And front back swing to get the gears, R, 1, 3 & 5 are rearwards, 2 & 4 are forwards. On the VR6 (2.8 ltr & 2.9 ltr), this shaft is different to other engine's Corrados. There is ball bearing in the side of the shaft which has been recessed. This could have worn a depression in the side of the gearshift housing side wall. And late VR6 1995 have a softer side wall. Three things come to mind...... 1) the little retaining spring that retains the detent ball bearing has rusted away or become weak. 2) the ball bearing has fallen out. 3) the ball bearing has worn the seating area so that tolerarances and position retention have become slacker. I just wonder if the 1995 batch of VR6 gearboxes had a ball bearing seating that is softer then previous, leading to increased wear and thus not holding the gear selector tigher in place. On my gearbox I have no rattle at 44,000 miles. If I put the car into 1st gear (or any other), the selector moves with ease if used in the engine bay, but when in 1st gear (or any other), its sits tightly in the gear position. ie. it is restricted from rattling. Perhaps someone checks if their's is the same or is in fact slack when seated. ie. there is some free play movement before the selector shaft starts to move the gear in the gearbox. Thats one reason. ========== Another is a batch of reverse gear selector fork springs are weaker than previously in the 1995 VR6's. This is part 02A 311 548A. Because it is weak, it doesn't push the reverse gear selector fork with the sliding reverse gear far enough away along the shaft and its allowing the reverse gear to rub up against the 1st gear. Or its not able to push the sliding reverse gear out of the way far enough as the spline has gunged up a little with age. Gearbox apart to get at this one! It located behind the starter motor inside the gearbox. This is more likely the cause of the rattle. Maybe worth putting in some clean gear oil "cleaner", ie. G51. To see if it will clean the sliding reverse gear splines and allow the spring to push the reverse gear away from the 1st gear. G51 is the standard higher temperature detergent gear oil that VW use in the gearbox and was filled at the factory for the later 02A gearbox when fitted to the VR6, when it was introduced. Those with the rattle, have you refilled with another brand of 75w90 gear oil by any chance? My gearbox is using G51 as factory original, not changed since new. .

I question the use of the sills if the engine end is lifted off the wheels, particularly with a VR6. Sills aren't designed for lifting. Even the standard front jacking points are weak for the Corrado at the front points. The floor pan distorts and the doors can loose alignment. Add a bit of hidden rusting over 20ish years and some may encounter problems. It would be better for a lifting tool to lift by the tyres/wheels or known chassis points already discussed on here in the past. They do a rachet lift ramp set but that won't clear a lowered Corrado and only just clears a late "spaceship" 1995 suspension height. .

Old VW(UK) MK stock is my guess. .

Interesting Pat as its not offered by Germany. Just test some other parts that I know Germany aren't being made/sold and they show as part and price. .

Ignore 00513. You must had only the ignition on, engine stopped. - Ignition leads off, plug caps & coil pack ends. - Engine top cover off and left side cover above the coil pack. - Undo the two bolts & connector for the Coil Pack and take off out of the way. - Its on the side face on the rear end at the camshaft level by the Aux. Water Pump. Disconnect the connector and undo the fixing bolt. Pull out and make sure the seal surround as on the replacement comes with it. - Refit the new sensor and tighten the fixing bolt (10 Nm, 7 ft. lb..) - Refit the coil pack and its bolts, reconnect the connector (10 Nm, 7 ft. lb.) - Refit the engine top and LH side covers - Refit and reconnect the ignition leads - Remove the entry 00515 code from the ECU fault code memory or the the ECU will continue to run in Limp Home Mode. Job done - 0.75 hours. Easy! Drive and when warm, rev it to the red line once. Stop and recheck the 00515 fault has not re-appeared. Clear? Fault fixed. No? new Camshaft sensor is faulty. .

I don't that will get taken up as "536" means its UK/Japan rhd. .

The circuit is fairly simple. Puts 12 volts across the motor which is what the switch does. So either one of the two wires is internally broken or the electric motor is goosed. Is this a VW seat or other? If VW, the wires should be orange and grey, including the T-offs from the height adjustment switch which supply the power to the backrest adjustment switch. Check the interconnecting wires between the two switches are OK, then line check or voltage check the orange & grey to the backrest adjustment motor. Doesn't matter which way 12 volts is applied, the switch reverses the supply to get direction movement. .

Yes it is. The building at the east end near the chimneys of VW Wolfsburg factory. VW Heritage was a little door in those days in one of the museum walls, now move to a garage in Wolfsburg. That was May 1999 just before the Autostadt opened in June 1999. I'm told some of the exhibits are not on display (stored?). Interesting place for things like the Corrado enduarnce cars 1 & 2, Mk2 Scirocco Turbo and other very limited models, some of which didn't make it to the dealerships. Combine it with the Autostadt and a Wolfsburg factory tour, and it makes a worthwhile visit. The tour I ran did the museum and Wolfsburg factory line. We were over there for 10 days and toured other VW factories plus Karmann & Karmann museum plus a weekend at Scirocco Comes Home at Osnabruck 21- 24 May 1999. A whole 40 acre farm full of Sciroccos & Corrado from all over Europe to celebrate 25 years of the VW Scirocco. Field after field full of all sorts of standard, customed, tuned etc. .

Erm... Its L703 ONH! Looks like yours was a lease car. Had a Scirocco Mk2 like that. Did 9,000 miles then a the dealer bid for it. Regular thing in the '90's with 9,000 or 18,000 mile contracts on 6, 12, 18, 24 month contracts. Listers must have won the bidding. Corrado could have been anywhere in the UK with a user. .

Was available as a separate part at VW parts but long gone... Left - 535 853 695, Right - 535 853 696. .

Thought we had it out in 5 mins! :lol: How time flies. .

If its still readable on the VR6, its stamped into the top side edge of the engine block on a flat area (belt side of the engine), not the cylinder head, the cast block. or Its on the back clutch side in the cast block at the top on a flat surface in the very corner. On mine I can bearly make out ABV. The engine number has gone. .

Yup, thats the one to Berlin and then Wolfsburg Museum to languish let the tyres go flat. Wasn't being looked after for sure. Tax disc ran out in 04 96. Bet they never SORN'd it :lol: Had approx. 15,000 on the clock. lol, just been watching it this afternoon while trying to find another VW training video. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48918[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]48919[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]48920[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]48921[/ATTACH] Bit of an insult really as VW never made it. It should have gone home to Onsabruck. .

Thought it was like this........ Note the instructions in red (rest basically is the same). - Pull the crank case breather off the black plastic box breather on the rocker cover. - Engine oil at minimum of 80 degrees C. - All switchable electrical loads off but the engine & rad. fan. - Run the engine at idle until the rad. fan has kicked in once and stopped. - With throttle closed, pull off the temp sensor between No.3 & 4 plugs. (If it stalls at anytime, restart after reconnecting this coolant temp sensor connection. Otherwise the ECU will drop into "Emergency Mode" if restarted without the reconnection.) - Check timing at 2,000 - 2,500rpm is 4 to 8 degrees BTC. Aiming to get 6 degrees BTC. (Adjust if necessary to acheive with rotation of the dizzy) - Raise engine speed in excess of 3000 RPM 3 times by quickly opening the throttle each time and snapping shut, then let idle. (Only perform this if you know your Supercharger is in good condition, this sort of blipping can blow a worn Supercharger. You have been warned!!!!!!!) - Assuming CO % is correct..... (0.7% +/- 0.4% vol.). As with other VW's of this era, both CO/idle are adjusted together to get it absolutley right. - Alter the idle with adjuster on throttle body. (800 rpm, +/- 50 rpm) - Seal up CO if you used it - Reconnect the coolant temp sender connection while the engine is still running and the rad. fan is not running. - Raise engine speed in excess off 3,000 rpm 3 times by quickly opening the throttle each time and snapping shut, then let idle. (Only perform this if you know your Supercharger is in good condition, this sort of blipping can blow a worn Supercharger. You have been warned!!!!!!!) - Check ISV is vibrating & buzzing. - Engine ignition off. - Reconnect the breather. ===================== Idle switch is the suspect. .

Chains do stretch on the engine. There's a bulletin on it and missing bolts inside the chain area and mileage is over 12,500 miles. New chains and tensioner plus other bits and bobs. Supercharger clutch will not be a mechanical failure. Its just an annoying "feature" which eventually goes away in most cases. Fan belt spray can help silence the clutch squeak. I call it my "pet rodent" on mine. All gone by 7,000 miles except when I ask the supercharger to engage the magnetic clutch about engine 2,500 rpm and above to 3,000 rpm. The supercharger runs at 5 times faster and upto 17,500 rpm. Occassionally it chirps. I would be more concerned with what the cylinder bores and piston crowns are like on a Mk5. Any sign of damage/scoring coupled with or engine has high oil consumption.... walk away rapido. A good engine doesn't drink. Plus is the ECU software upto date. The ECU software standard can be determined using VCDS. If its been re-mapped with say Revo etc, the engine is a safer bet as the early 1.4TSi supercharger engines had their knock sensor wrongly coded in the ECU which lead to engine failures due to mis-firing, particularly if using 95RON petrol. It doesn't like high % ethanol petrol like Tesco's 99RON. Best is Shell V power or BP Ultimate with this engine. And if you do get one.... close the spark plug gaps down to 0.79mm. They are set tooooo wide for a supercharger engine, either the factory fittted plugs or the spares. The supercharger blows the spark out at the gaps of 0.9mm and causes murmuring misfires which what the plugs fitted at the factory/spares are set too. VW state 0.8mm to 0.9mm range. I've found even 0.81mm causes slight misfire. VCDS may give you clues as it will show as coil pack failure. But the bore/piston crowns is the only check that give peace of mind. .

Its 536 803 312A .

I'd put that noise down to a bearing being over tightened and when it heats up at speed, its tightens slightly more. .

When you running the engine and the engine is off, its using different temperature sensors. So you need to check the following test .... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?57685-Corrado-VR6-over-heating-problem-and-fuel-smell.&p=739154#post739154 Also useful background.... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?55012-Auxilery-Water-Pump-not-kicking-in .

Standard VW are these.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VDO-Vision-Electrical-Oil-Pressure-Gauge-0-10-Bar-/190501318047?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c5ac36d9f http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-VDO-OIL-PRESSURE-SENDER-/220840578198?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item336b1fcc96 They need to be matched ie. 10 bar sender & 10 bar gauge. Same for 5 bar. Twin pole lets you retain the dash warning light and buzzer. Engine has a 6.5 to 7 bar cold start pressure so a 10bar gauge lets you see all whereas the 5 bar will saturate at 5 bar when the oil is colder on engine start. Good one to compliment is the voltmeter and connect direct to the battery vai its own 1 amp fuse. Then you can see starting voltages. Anything below 10ish volts during starting and the ignition spark amplifier shuts down. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VDO-VOLT-GAUGE-AUSTIN-MORRIS-TRIUMPH-RELIANT-FORD-MG-/270804248340?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f0d30e714 But far better are the VDO Cockpit Vision range. The dial is back illuminated so the white digits/lettering light up. And you can use red or green bulb masks to change the white digiits & lettering. The pointer are illuminated. Look good at night. http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/INSTRUMENTS-/-GAUGES-VDO-VDO-Cockpit-Vision-Gauges/c1_2_3/index.html Also can be squeezed into the ashtray position. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48887[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]48888[/ATTACH] .

You are describing the wirewound resistor and its mounting bracket. Fits on the ABS Pump on the front inboard side. Its part of the EDL electrical circuit which uses the ABS. (EDL = Electronic Differential Lock - works upto 25mph provinding the steering is betweeen 10 'oclock and 2 o'clock when you set off. Outside this arc of steering wheel position, the system is defeated and the wheel(s) spin if road grip is poor. In UK known as TCS = Traction Control System) .

a) Yup, blue connector with two brown wires, one with yellow stripe, other with green stripe. b) Nope. c) Yes with CO analyser to do it. But as an interim, set the idle to 800 rpm and turn the CO until the engine jooost begins to drop rpm speed. Back off 1/16th of a turn. CO Set & 800 rpm idling still - job done. d) 800 rpm. Also added a bit in red text in the 1st post as its 8 years since I did one at the dealers educating the techies.

That was the thoughts I was having as I wrote above. As someone said, a lot more fabrication, a lot more parts as existing may not transfer from the donor car due to size etc, electrics technology has moved on from 12 volts to digial signals data bus and so on. So the "project" is much more than it used to be and knowhow has to be better. The thing I'll say is the "R" engine isn't the newest generation..... its the previous generation to the present 2.0ltr GT 210bhp versions. .

Thought it was like this........ - Pull the crank case breather off the black plastic box breather on the rocker cover. - Engine oil at minimum of 80 degrees C. - All switchable electrical loads off but the engine & rad. fan. - Run the engine at idle until the rad. fan has kicked in once and stopped. - With throttle closed, pull off the temp sensor between No.3 & 4 plugs. (If it stalls at anytime, restart after reconnecting this coolant temp sensor connection. Otherwise the ECU will drop into "Emergency Mode" if restarted without the reconnection.) - Check timing at 2,000 - 2,500rpm is 4 to 8 degrees BTC. Aiming to get 6 degrees BTC. (Adjust if necessary to acheive with rotation of the dizzy) - Raise engine speed in excess of 3000 RPM 3 times by quickly opening the throttle each time and snapping shut, then let idle. (Only perform this if you know your Supercharger is in good condition, this sort of blipping can blow a worn Supercharger. You have been warned!!!!!!!) - Assuming CO % is correct..... (0.7% +/- 0.4% vol.). As with other VW's of this era, both CO/idle are adjusted together to get it absolutley right. - Alter the idle with adjuster on throttle body. (800 rpm, +/- 50 rpm) - Seal up CO if you used it - Reconnect the coolant temp sender connection while the engine is still running and the rad. fan is not running. - Raise engine speed in excess off 3,000 rpm 3 times by quickly opening the throttle each time and snapping shut, then let idle. (Only perform this if you know your Supercharger is in good condition, this sort of blipping can blow a worn Supercharger. You have been warned!!!!!!!) - Check ISV is vibrating & buzzing. - Engine ignition off. - Reconnect the breather. .

If there's no leaks. The hoses stay hard to squeeze when cold. Then the header tank cap valve is the most likely suspect. So a good move to change this. Don't think the thermostat would be causing. Plus changing, often as not, the housing is brittle and breaks and as the cross feed pipe from the water pump. So handle these carefully if you go down that route. .

Ah, that may be a clue to who it is!!! .......... Next project car. .