RW1

Thats because you have to understand the secret American code! ....... It's a misprint. Not Group D1 but Group 01 (Diagnostics). Cunning eh! :lol: .

I presume you are on page 19.18? It's asking you to go to self diagnosis at the back end of the manual for fault code 00522 on page 01-79 in the section OBD 01 Fuel & Ignition. .

No, if you want to get at that end in the roof, you will need to drop the roof liner inside the Corrado. (Roof strips - Taking them off should be done slowly and steadily to avoid kinking. The very rear end bit is a separate part (clipped in) to the main strip. You can soften the roof strips by pouring very hot water onto them away from the Corrado to help before refitting. [Wouldn't do this for removal but you might try a small hand towel soaked in hot water, then squeezed to remove excess water and then popped into a leak proof shopping bag to heat up sections as you lift it free of the roof.] The retained heat will be enough to aid removal/refitting before they become hard again. Being carefull not to scald yourself of course.)

Its the back right sunroof drain pipe, there's one on the rear left side as well, plus the fronts come down the windscreen pillars into the wheel arches behind the mud sheilds at the rear end of the front wings. I extended mine with ribbed piping lapped over the ends from B&Q to flash the water off the bodywork directly onto the ground. .

Theres nothing outside and its inside a locked pound. Defo not public viewing by rolling up. And unless things have changed, they didn't communicate in English and its privately guided tour assisted. It's by invitation only. Bit short notice as well..... You might try (in German) asking if you could visit but with Karmann going bust, not sure who the contact is..... Tempest - any clues????? .

The light should clear but the fault code will remain in the memory. All you need to do is remember that it is there and it's an old code next time you have a diagnosis done. Clear it off when you next get chance to do so. .

My view is that the days when you plugged car tyres yourself is when they did typically 50mph max and were quite lightweight. It is much more preferable with a performance sports coupe to have it done professionally. Kwil-Fit not preferred, I use ATS Euromaster local to me and they did a repair for the damage you are describing with a "mushroom" plug for £20.50 in July. Repaired, fitted & balanced included in the price. Not the first, had several done this way and no problems afterwards. .

Something has to give in those sort of circumstances (road or your Corrado). Photo may help to see how bad. .

I've just checked back. The original rear gearbox mount was changed and the engine rear mount revised to one standard as a ETKA spares in 1997 by Karmann/VW. VR6 Gearbox mount ETKA spare was revised from 357 199 402C to 3A0 199 402 in 1997 VR6 Rear engine mount 1H0 199 262D, from mid Nov'93 onwards revised to 1H0 199 262K. Spare in 1997 - All VR6 1H0 199 262K All were/are rubber insert mounts. So, if the mount has been replaced in the Corrado's history paperwork, the mounts may already be revised standard. .

Area around the pressure regulator on the fuel rail at the front of the engine There's a fuel pipe join on RHD's just by the rear engine mount inside the chassis stiffner which travels down. Haven't looked at the LHD but it will be th esame where the underbody plastic pipes join the hoses into the engine bay. Fuel hoses on the tensioner side of the cam cover. .

There is a thin gasket in the joint. Tightened up. Clean up and applied a smear of Hylomar. Been good for a year now. Bolts! Knew that would shock. :lol: http://www.europeanperformanceproducts. ... /14/page/5 and here http://www.arz-tuning.de/shop/index.php ... tml/page/4 The short ones are "shoulder bolts" M6 x 14 with socket head, where as the later are allan key bolts with a very small shoulder M6 x 17 self locking. Later bolts are 3mm longer as you can see. .

.... similar. Other source of a leak I had from new until recently was the split section joint between the upper and lower timing chain cover area just behind the three temp sensor/thermostat housing. Always has thought this was a oil cooler seal weep. One of the two small allan key head bolts was slack. Gave it a 1/4 turn and that leak has gone. They sit on the small under face of the casing. You can get in there with your hand to feel for oil near the bolts but need the coil pack out of the way if it needs tightening. .

If you've fitted a rubber sump gasket, they are bad for this. Sealant helps but..... The metal spacers in the gasket don't let the bolts fully tighten down the gasket. No use overtightening as the bolts will easily strip the thread. Mine won't stop weeping oil, so...... Options: - take off the gasket and clean up. Then re-apply sealant and hope it does seal (BTW, tighten the bolt pattern from the centre to the outer edges, front & back together; to take out the sump pan distortions. Don't start in a corner.) or - buy a set of shorter early VR6 sump bolts and use an early VR6 flat gasket. Shorter bolts cos the gasket is thinner and some bolt mountng points are not open ended, so the later bolts foul inside the threaded holes. Be warned :), the bolts ain't cheap at VW. Bought the bolts in the end, supplied in packs of 10, 3 packs = £45.12 Part number N900 084 01. Didn't bother with the early VR6 VW sump gasket, bought instead a Payen JH5013 VR6 sump gasket from a motorfactors. (Job not done yet) or clean up all the oil, including in the gasket groove area and apply Hylomar Universal Blue. This I have done and managed to reduce the leakage by about 80%. One little bit more to seal and hopefully it will have stopped. If so, will fit the flat gasket/shorter bolts at the next oil change. .

The ideal compromise is to fit the rear two mounts as standard VW and a stiffer mount at the front centre like Vibra-Technics 950m (VR6). The reason for the stiffer mount is to assist the gear changes. The standard VW unit flexes too much and as a result the cables in the gearchange get jammed inside the cable sheaths. This happens when the engine is under a lot of load such as 1st gear / full throttle. Vibration feedback through the 950M is minimal. .

True of the Lambda probe but not the throttle. That requires Basic Settings to be engaged. .

Its subtle, most noticeable effect is the throttle control near idle is better. .

He's been lazy and ordered the first off the listed as '92 0nwards switches rather than the 2nd listed, a couple of switches further down the list. The parts person reads the first, sees the next are for '88 - '92 and thinks that is it. But after two '88 - '92 parts listed, more post '92 switches continue to be listed! One of which is the correct UK switch with dim-dip connection and the right keyway for the loom connection. Not the first time the mistake has been made. Usually find these parts in the bottom of a box at a show :D for a couple of quid. Clutch cable on a Mk2 Scirocco is another classic for this parts mistake. That ends up with a shorter LHD version arriving. LOL. .

Mine runs very quietly, idles smoothly and is quiet, not chain or tappet noise at all temperatures. Castrol Magnatec 15w40 oil, Texaco 97 petrol and standard VW paper air filter. 34mpg. Basic settings done. And has that nice VR6 burble at low rpm and VR6 roar at higher rpm they were built with :D (Tesco 99 for a couple of tank fulls recently, the idle was lumpy and the engine always sounded like a grinding machine. :cuckoo: . Also, use to use a K&N panel filter in the airbox. That caused problems with oiling the MAF which caused rough running.) .

That will do just dandy mate. Love the way you've even copied the kink at the headlight end. :lol: Now where was that patent application ....... .

1.0 cm wide x 0.5 cm depth. .

And originally it dripped into the battery flooding the cells, main reason for the mod. But these days, with sealed batteries it more about protecting the poorly painted bodywork around the battery area. .

This has worked for me for the last 12 years. Never had a damp battery cover since. Black foam draught excluder. Bit hard to find these days in black. Runs from the windscreen deflection plate down to almost the headlight. Being black it isn't noticeable. .

The connection that is missing is the UK dim-dip lights connection on the new switch. If you look at the connector ID's, they will be the same in all the other positions, ie.58 as in the corner connector, 58L, 30 and so on, iirc. The key way can be knocked out and the switch fitted. .

I had this recently...... Had Tesco 99RON in the tank. Engine was a dog. Put in Texaco 97 and the engine was smooth as a babies bum as it should be. Also the same in a Mk2 Scirocco and a Mk3 Scirocco about the same time. I think in my case the Tesco 99 petrol has been "doctored" and has more ethanol in it now than it did pre- June'10. Not had any problems since with the engines on Texaco. If it runs fine now on an alternative petrol source, the old moto prevails, leave it alone and avoid that petrol brand. .

I originally fitted the only officially available mudflaps from VW,..... the Quantum "planks". Didin't like the looks and took them off. Quantum ones shown here in this topic Searched around and found a reasonable fit with some Votex ones VW were selling for the Passat. Odd bit of modification to get them to fit. They've been on since 1998 and still OK today. The Corrado will be at the VWCCGB National Day at York Air Museum on 29.08.10, if peeps want to see them close up. Castle Howard Corrado Meeting 07AUG05 - 24a.jpg[/attachment:121ltqst] For the front used "Passat 97 onwards" part number 3B0 075 111 (rough guide price of £17 + VAT). For the rear used "Passat Limo 94 onwards" part number 3A5 075 101 (rough guide price of £24 + VAT). Don't know if they are still available given the age of the parts. The installation instructions are in the May 1999 Sprinter. .