RW1

Don't forget to loosen the bolt in the passenger side gearbox mount, take out the front mount and the rear driver's side engine mount bolts. Lifting the engine will then present the pump for extraction. Lift will also be restricted by the exhaust touching the centre body tunnel at the rear of the engine bay. As it touches, that will be high enough to get the pump out. You will need a longish bolt (M8 iirc) threaded into the tensioner to slacken it off so as the serp. belt can be taken off. The coolant system drian threaded plug is in the cross pipe under the inlet manifold near the pump end of the pipe. .

Thought that may make you think! :lol: Try a craft shop for some stick on film material. The reason its expensive is because it withststands all sorts of chemicals ie, petrol, oil, waxes, etc.. 3M do cheaper versions but when you look at the specification, its not upto the car environment. Next time you are at a car show, scrum in the boxes for a sill/bumper protector kit. Inside it will have a clear film sheet that is the protector. It's the same stuff, just cut to a shape. It can usually be bought from the trader for a descently cheap price and you can cut the discs from that. Or try fleabay for the same. It's used industry wide. .

Not the same. That number is for a A4 sheet of 3M's Clear Anti Squeak Film - costs about £30+ a sheet. ie. like the little clear pads the spoiler rubber stops park on on the outer tailgate areas. Its what ETKA quotes as the replacement. Dealers don't keep the film lying around. You can also buy it on a 30mm x 5m tape roll at £30+ AKL 448 030 05, same film. I use it and cut round coins to make the discs. Problem with cleaning up and re-glueing them is the tailgate rubber stops giggle around a lot and push the off centre fairly quickly. .

The restriction is not that much that its a block. More it flows more one way than the other. .

A) Its a dummy. :lol: In cold climate areas, the part is a heater (N79) for the crankcase breather pipe. Presumably some icing was expereinced. If you uncouple the connector, you'll find there are no contacts in the pipe unit. B) Crank case breather restrictor, the principle being fumes flow ino the intake but not air into the crankcase. .

Even after 9 months I still ain't fully at home with the shape. Some angles it looks odd. Others great. For me, I needed a new daily when the old Mk2 Scirocco blotted its copy book in May last year and was off the road for a month.... that was it! Surprised you found it cramped compared to the Corrado, it feels much bigger to me. Too big sometimes. But the dark interior, that took some getting use to. Low spec cloth interior Scirocco (ie. non GT) come with light interior roof lining. Spec leather on the standard model (its a GT/R) and it goes black, what an ink pot! Windows, yeah but they designed it for Portuguese weather. No one thought how it would freeze up in British or German winters. What a pain they were in January, especially if not setting off from home. If the windows don't drop out of the rubber seals, then the doors don't budge. And rear visibilty - erm, they forgot about that! Mk4 Scirocco ..... I don't think so when it arrives in 2014. Mk7 Golf MQB matrix chassis is being proposed. Each to their own though ;) Have another? Scheduled for 2013, hoping a run out Mk3 model special (Scirocco Storm??). Given the electrical problems the 2009 model appears to have generally even though it used the EOS underpinning, avoiding a Mk4 first year production may be wise. .

Not worth it!! Sat in a R in Chesterfield a while back having got out my twin charger 1.4 (very similar spec less engine) and just thought £10k for a 160PS to 265PS engine change and a bit of plastic body kit :cuckoo: . Better to buy a 2.0ltr GT 210PS and remap at most. .

:lol: if only true .....

Yes, so did I, I thought we were sworn to secrecy ! Blooming more like common fact ! :lol: Which did you get Jim, DSG or Manual? .

They may have got a scrapper in with a dual fitted. Quite a common fitment across the Audi's and some VW's. Part number 035 919 561. In fact the 20v Audi you got the gauges from is down as having it fitted. Volksmine your 1st port of call. .

Try here .... Stevens or here.... Volksmine.

I've always run my voltmeter installs on a wire direct to the battery +ve with a 1 amp fuse at the battery end protecting it. If you put in on say the cig lighter (if you had one) or the back of the fuse box where there are battery or ignition connections, it sees false readings due to circuit loadings. Ground can be local. It's always on but you could fit a switch. .

Bottom of p1 - Schematic - two green circles are the bulbs. Pin 31 is the connection to the wire you have modified. You have not understood the mod. The switch internals can have/has the electrical shorts to the wire on pin 31 of the switch, irrespective of the bulb being blown. Congratualations, your Corrado now has one less fire risk :) .

That's enough to ID it :). Oil Temp Gauge is 60'C - 170'C. Sender is 0'C - 180'C Temp sender is part number 035 919 521B but there's a problem..... M22 x 1, 5 So, another Audi model carries an oil temp sender 0'C - 180'C and is M10 x 1 Part number 049 919 563. (or with 563A or 563B, all the same) One source for temp sender or 2nd source for temp. sender. Worth asking VW/Audi dealer parts for it as 2007 price £12 iirc. C.

The wires may fry a little before that blows depending on how the electrical short develops. Best low as possible ie, 200mA ideally (allows for cold start current). There's only a mini filament bulb electrical current thro' the fuse normally. ie 1.2 watts = 85mA. I've eventually changed my 3 amp down to 1 amp fuse like the cars' fuses but that's the lowest I can find to fit the type of fuse holder I used. .

The oil temp sensor on top of the oil filter housing is M10 x 1. Its VDO and 0 - 150'C on the VR6. Therefore where the engine normally operates it will give an error of readings of 10'C - 12'C. Had a quick look and Audi on some cars use higher oil temp sensors: 0'C - ***'C. Can you read off the 6 digit gauge part number with sub letter (if used) that may be stamped on it. Or the Audi model it came from, ie. Audi 80, Audi A4. The circuit is a resistive load sensitive to temperature. .

Sender is just a switch of the right pressure setting, dash isn't fussy. No oil drain for the filter head fitment one, but there will be a little oil around if some residual pressure. Nothing to be concerned with, just have a rag to hand to wipe. Sump plug unfortunately means draining. .

You'll find the gauge will full scale when initially cold as pressure is 6 to 7 bar on start. After getting warmed up this will drop to 2 bar on idle, about 4 to 4.5 bar peak on higher rpm. A lot dependant on oil grade also. Figures are for 10w40/15w40 grade oils. As its hard over when cold , are you really worried??? Better to have a bigger needle sweep for 0 - 5 bar so lower pressures can be easily read whats going on when warmed up. The gauge senders must match the gauge, ie 5 bar both units otherwise the calibration is affected to give an incorrect reading. Fitting a "T" piece on a VR filter head.... Better to retain the dash buzzer and indication as they are usefull backups to attract attention to oil pressure is low or failed. Hope you've got free access for tools on the Mk2 as the Corrado is almost impossible to get to with a "t" piece and my experience years ago was oil leaks as I couldn't get the spanner on the "T" piece to tighten it down well enough. Used a dual switch and sender in the end, directly onto the filter head. Oil temp you can sacrifice, its a matter of whether you want to see it in the dash LCD. It's a load circuit so both means a second sensor. Sump plug would give you more information, ie sump oil temp and well as oil temp entering the bearings. .

Before Wilhelm Karmann died on 25th october 1998, he used to take a car off his production lines to a spec. he wanted and put it into his collection. So the collection not only consists of prototype proposals, specials but also production cars. I say "technically" because it was never bought by VW. It's a highly spec'd LHD Corrado VR6. All Corrados and other VW's left the Karmann factory with VW badges fitted. There's no mystery there. The last Corrado is badged as a VW but you will never find it in the VW records. That honuor goes to the VR6 Storm in Wolfsburg as VW UK at Milton Keynes asked for it to be the last Corrado VW got from the production line, hence why its chassis number is miles away from the other 499 Storms made between February - Mid May 1995. The last Corrados being built in 2nd week of June 1995. The last Corrado VR6 Storm delivered to VW and then VW (UK) in the Wolfsburg Museum (2nd last produced). climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdflast_corrado-front.jpg[/attachment:1cb6qr5h] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdflast_corrado-rear.jpg[/attachment:1cb6qr5h] The last Corrado to be produced on the Karmann production line now in the Karmann Collection at Osnabrück. Last Corrado - VR6.jpg[/attachment:1cb6qr5h] .

Its kept as part of the Karmann Collection next to the factory. Technically a Karmann Corrado as it was never delivered to VW. .

That green VR6 at the Wolfburg museum surprised me as it is nowhere near 'mint' condition That last Storm at Wolfsburg is a disgrace, even back in 1999 with flat tyres. I think Top Gear should hang their heads in shame for sending it there in 1996. It should have gone to Karmann, its true home. Wolfsburg, just shows how much T.G. knew about the Corrado at the time. .

97,521 Corrados were manufactured, the last is in the Karmann Collection, the 2nd last in the Wolfsburg Museum, both green VR6's. Just under 9000 were imported into the UK. You will love the Mk3 Scirocco ...... me :D Last years best decision to replace the daily runner 18 year old Mk2 Scirocco. 100,000 a very good acheivement considering its was a doubt with VW and also a niche market. Exports UK & Europe-wide including Russia; Turkey, Lebenon, Egypt, Dubai, Singapore, Japan and New Zealand but not to the USA or to Australia (no plans either due to type approval). 175 a day out of the factory. .

I hope no ones thinking of starting the engine nor turning on the starter. Tow/trailer job where ever it's going. .

No wonder they were £20 at GTI Inters. .

Yup, had one since 1996 and still going strong. Bought a second cos it works well. An alternative is the Ring Automotive SmartCharge8 Code: RSC8 which will handle a Corrado battery. I have the SmartCharge4 version and it works well but will not shut off to cycling mode on a Corrado battery from experience. It's not powerful enough electrical output (amps) to charge a 50 amp plus battery hooked up to a Corrado. (Used on a 45 amp battery on another car and its fine.) .