RW1

When its fully warm, drive a few mins at say 40 mph without thrashing the engine. Then stop driving and feel the top and bottom rad hoses by the battery, engine doesn't need to be running. There should be a distinct temp difference if the thermostat is working. If the they are near enough the same, then the thermostat is not operating correctly. Does have the characteristic of a stuck open thermostat. .

That's unusual as they have been FUS (Sach) for as long as I can remember. But... you learn something new every day... But given they fitted alternative French distributors to Mk2 Sciroccos when they had a Bosch shortage in the late '80s, I put nothing past VW doing anything to keep production going. Still wouldn't fit LUK by choice for me though, two clutches of theirs in the recent past and no way, not again. I expect 70k miles out of a clutch for me and they both came out at 20k miles with my left leg aching due to the increased force required as well as the lack of a progressive engagement disappearing over time. When out, both appeared only lightly used, so no explanation for the change of character of operation. Trade I know are of the same view. .

Yes it does work similar, has options for 2 & 4 amp charging, once reached, drops back to a predetermined voltage 12.5 volts iirc, and starts again - no preset time, that is governed by the battery discharging. Where as the Airflow does only if the volts drop back due to the residual charging current not charging and maintain at 13.75 volts and the lower voltage trigger point is quite high, ie 13.5 volts. Can't grumble with this one, original 12 year old one is still working and the Corrado (VW brand) batteries last 7 years. The ones to avoid are these types as they rely on the discharge of the battery discharge rate preventing overcharging as they have no higher volts protection. Whilst not damaging to the cars electronics, gassing a battery is not good. Hence the point of the addition "intelligent" circuitry in all,... Airflow, Ring, Ctek. .

Used these for the last 12 years. http://www.airflow-uk.co.uk/Battery-Conditioner.html Whilst it will charge and shut off to a trickle charge on a 45 amp hour battery, on the 60amp battery of the VR6, it can't quite get there and remains fully on at about 13 volts which is fine. The VR6 alternator just whines on start-up. Also use this as a boost charger on the "daily" until recently and this also shuts off to a trickle charge when charged. It is also waterproof so is handy for when used on one of the cars parked outside. http://www.ringautomotive.co.uk/product ... ?prod=2165 Both behave the same way, ie. as full charge is reached, the current is back off to trickle, if on that the battery goes down in voltage to about 12 volts, the charger switches on the main charge again and so cycles. Tested both on an oscilloscope, output is perfectly DC with no ripple AC element. A lot of older charger designs have a AC ripple element which has to be watched with LCD displays and electronics. The other thing I have done is fit each charger similar to these...... http://www.techstore-online.co.uk/Inu_p ... f=06004758 or http://www.amazon.co.uk/PK-Green-Protec ... 273&sr=8-1 To suppress household electrical switch spikes reaching the car, although I would think the units have it built in, it just adds peace of mind. Its not a RCD plug like you use for the electric lawnmower, its like the mains plug break 8 way etc used with your computing equipment for supply transient suppression. As above, solar chargers aren't upto it long term in the winter due to lack of sun and daylight hours v current output. .

LUK from experience ain't good after a while, use original VW if you can afford. Much better engagement. C.

Sorry to here this news Paul. Hope the injury is not too bad. Insurance..... look at this way when you get hold of their assessor. 4 ways: 1. They pay in full. 2. Go 50:50 with them. 3. You pay and make no claim (depends on what the old **** is doing with her damage). 4. It gets written off. I was faced with the same 10 years ago with the Mk2 White Scirocco with a bent up right front corner. Value of the car about £3k at the time Had a garage repair estimate in my hands for £2.7k by the time I saw the assessor.(Final repair was £2.75k). What I did was discuss the above 4 options with the assessor in the car park. Told him it wasn't being written off and th eoption wasn't available, no way 4.. Showed determination that the Scirocco was going to be put back on the road. The following day I got a call on the answer machine..... "Due to your enthusiast's interest, I have informed the insurance company to repair the car wholly on the insurance policy". The Scirocco is still alive and kicking 10 years later. .

That sort of thing happens (assuming not a defective filter) when the oil pump relief valve gets stuck closed sending the oil pressure up by a fair few notches. More common with 75k mile plus on th eclock, but.... well it is a Ford and they don't last much past...... .

Besides the headlight loom and battery, where else did you look at?? Check the fuse/relay panel, fuse & relays are fully home if you access the headlight loom by removing the small under shelf covering the fuse/relay panel area. .

Wrong thing to do after a battery diconnect. It should never be left idling while it is rapid learning in the first 10 minutes after ignition is switched on. It will never learn mid and full throttle settings for a long distance, ie 5,000+ miles. So its wotrking without the settings set up in the ECU. Disconnect it again for a few seconds, 10 seconds will do. Reconnect the battery and from when you start the engine, drive it straight away, no particular way other than not to sit with the engine idling. About 2 mins of idling in the first 10 will be fine, just drive the rest. Ragging won't be necessary. Do the battery disconnect with the engine warmed up, ie. when the oil is 90'C or above. See if that cures it. If so, stick with that and carry out "Basic Settings" on the ECU as in the wiki when you get a chance with someone who has VCDS (VAGCOM). .

Sidelights & tail lights are on split circuits via two fuses and two switch contacts in the Lights switch. Check fuse 8 (10 Amps red) for kerb side lights (ie your driver's side), road side lights is fuse 7 (10 Amps red). If OK, then look at the headlight switch. 12 volt feed from battery is on pin 30, fuse 8 feed output is connection 58L, (fuse 7 is connection 58R). As road side lamps are working, Light switch connection 30 has 12 volts on it. .

Job now been done with above some 5 weeks and no further sump/gasket/engine block oil leaks. Not even a hint of oil weeping out. The rubber gaskets on the later VR6 are crap having had the original leak and the 2nd one also. .

Did this job today. Pretty straight foward. Big thanks to the guys for putting up the info on here. :notworthy: It helped a lot in the planning. A few comments to help others...... - Undid the power steering pipe clip near the sump and tied back the pipe back out of the way. Same with the engine speed sender cable. All clear to get in on the clamp bolt and the oil cooler. - Left the engine for a week, the oil that came out today was about half a mug full. Undid the clamp cap bolt a little and let the remaing oil drop into the tray below. When it finished dripping, just wiped the oil cooler and engine block clean of oil. No more oil dribbled out. - Used a 24mm flat combi ring/open spanner on the oil cooler clamp bolt. Plenty of room and leverage from the spanner length available. - Oil cooler pushed upward and outwards allowing enough room to clean the engine block mating surface and the oil cooler surfaces. - Tightening torque for the oil cooler clamp bolt is 25Nm, 18 lbf ft. Final oil leak of three sorted after 14 years! :D (others being the 2nd rubber sump gasket replaced by a flat hard gasket/shorter sump bolts and the upper & lower timing chain cases tighten together.) .

Yes they did. Thats because they were made July 1992. Delivered to the six winning dealers in August 1992. .

VW spec ..... 10 - 13 bar as above Wear limit 7.5 bar Permissible difference between all cylinders: 3 bar Engine oil temperature minimum 30'C Throttle valve full open Plug pulled off Hall Sender (distributor) .

If you look at the production figures for both the Corrado & Scirocco Mk2 at the time, the latter end of 1988 - 1995 was a period of economic depression as now. Production figures reflect that period. Between 1990 - 1992 for the Scirocco it was about 15,500 units in 3 years when earlier it was 25,000 ish unit per year. The Corrado was much the same reducing from 25,000 ish units in 1990 down to 16,000 - 17,000ish units per year in 1991 - 1992 and then 12,000ish, 5,000 ish & 4,000ish in 1993, '94 & '95. The economy didn't pick up until 1995 and by that time Karmann's build price was too much for VW to market. RIP. Karmann's role with VW was niche market model mass porduction, or as in the case of the VW Golf Estate, production line/tooling proving before the line going to Wolfsburg. I remember one Karmann line employee saying to me that Wolfsburg couldn't build the Golf 3 Estate like they did at Osnabrück. Very unhappy about VW taking it away from Karmann. Very labour intensive production lines. .

Perhaps because the design origins of both Mk1 & Mk2 Scirocco were not Karmann. .

Erm..... no they didn't, particulalry the later post 1990 ones. Paint depth gauge always show Karmann applied a total depth of paint at 50% of VW's spec. Plus if you really look closely, you will find flecks of coloured paint. I have red flecks on a green car. On some Corrados I've seen shadows (lack of paint) where the sprayers have missed a bit on the upper surfaces due to tooling holding up the bonnet or tailgate. The surface finish was poor as well compared to the Golf out Wolfsburg. Solid colours fair better than metallics. This was because the cars were hand sprayed by two sprayers, one either side of the track and lacquer applied by a spray bridge the cars passed through. In fact in 1999 when Karmann were producing the Mercedes CLK drop coupe, Merc shipped the bare bodyshells by train back to the main Merc factory for painting before returning them by rail for furnishings, electrics and finishings to be completed. That was Merc's view Karmann's paint finish. If a Corrado paint finish looks really good and deep, then it suggests a respray at some point. .

I suggest you have a look at the engine speed sensor (G28) on the front of the lower engine block under the oil cooler. They are expensive to buy so if you can borrow or get hold of a known good one and substitute. It won't show easily in VCDS (VAGCOM) because of the nature of the fault code and how it behaves in the diagnostics. Capturing this fault (00513) genuinely is hard at the best of times as it also shows when an engine is stopped. This is how you do it. Given the engine problem is like clockwork at 12 minutes...... At this point do this.... Bit of a 2 person job as one needs to operate VCDS very quickly and the other crank the engine continuously. Bit of a difficult procedure to do practically because instructions below must be done exactly as written so the fault memory is interrogated at the right point where an engine speed sensor (G28) fault code 00513 is genuinely the sensor, not registering the engine is just stationary. - Switch the ignition back on as the engine stop problem occurs and at not time during this test switch the ignition off again until the end. Otherwise VCDS will choke and stop working, invalidating the test below. - Start cranking the engine and keep it cranking on the starter motor. - Set VCDS into 01- Engine and enter into fault codes. DTC 00513 will be the fault memory. Clear the fault. - Back out of fault screen to the ECU screen with the screen buttons including "Fault Codes". - Re-enter the fault codes screen while the engine is still cranking. Has the fault code reappeared? ** - Stop the cranking but don't switch off the ignition. - Exit VCDS. - Switch off ignition. ** If the DTC00513 was visible when the VCDS Fault Codes is re-entered while the engine is still cranking, the engine speed sensor (G28) is faulty. .

Those faults don't affect the performance if the defective parts have been changed but other do (camshaft position sender is one). The fault codes will remain in the memory though despite the component changes. :shock: By disconnecting the battery, you will have lost the ECU "Basic Settings" which will now need setting up again as per the ECU Reset procedure in the Wiki. So you now need VCDS (VAGCOM) again. Bit a circle really. :cuckoo: .

Take a look at the stalk switch mechanical operation. Your descirption points to something about its mechanical operation and how it locks for main beam on. Electrical circuit is OK as you can flash the lights and it operates normally. .

Photos for an undamaged installation and the explanation here ;) .

A lot of those factory photo stills are in a book - Das Grosse VW-Corrado-Bush, Heinz Horrmann/Georg Grützner/Joachim Hack, ISBN 3-89365-187-X , hardback, sadly out of print but copies do occassionally appear on the German Ebay...... expect £100. Very sort after. Written in German only, no English verion, tells the storyline of Karmann leading to the Corrado develpment and production. Also covers the VW engine developments used in the Corrado and various Corrado model developments including the specials - ie. Cabrio and others. Written in 1992. Big book physically, not far short of A3 paper size. Doesn't fit any of my bookshelves. .

Don't forget to put the goo (not glue) in the seal gripping channel like we discussed at the Yorkie meeting Andy to stop the water running round the sunroof lid lip to the inside. I use brake caliper cylinder grease G 000 100 or Plastilube Brake Cylinder Lube as its a stiffer consistancy and does not easily move with water around. Or use VW's G 000 450 02 - Sunroof Grease. But equally if you have the panel out, you may clean and regrease the sliding tracks with VW's sunroof grease G 000 450 02. Do not use ordinary grease after cleaning. The grease is VW part number G 000 450 02. £19.17 plus VAT. Expensive but experience has demonstrated axle grease etc, cause problems with load on the mechanism. The seal will need to be cut to length so best to do a dry run and mark it. It contains a steel band so not easy to cut in situ but not hard either off the Corrado. Better to be a tad over in length and double check during the dry run that its home and firmly fitted before marking for the cut. The are not cheap so best to be sure. Seal joint is to the middle of the right hand side short length. .

Its a common enough special spanner to find at Halfords or a good motor factors, 10mm/11mm. When you see it you will see why. Its head is designed and made not to flex like an ordinary ring or open end spanner will. Had one for years and just give it a good sharp jolt, rather than a slow turn on the bleed valve and it will open. Do this by holding the spanner in place at the valve end with one hand and jolt 1/8th turn with the other hand. Just make sure the spanner is squarely on the valves spanner flats with them in the middle of the spanner heads body. When you replace the valves ;) , put a little Copper Ease on the upper part of the valve's threads that will be in the caliper body. This will help keep out moisture. And when tightened up (no specified torque, suggest 10 lb ft.) after bleeding, wipe Copper Ease round the exposed bleed valve threads onto the surrounding caliper body to form a water tight seal. .

Right tools go a long way :) Using a brake spanner on the bleed valves ? If not, recommended to prevent rounding. Also put a rag round the valve soaked in easing oil for the night. .