RW1

Draper do the tool for that 6mm & 12 mm hex combination bubble pack. Try Halfords. .

Search on blink codes on the Corrado Club USA, there's a page there to help you. All detailed in the Bentley back sections. .

"VAG-COM can only communicate with the VR6's Motronic ECU (not G60's Digifant or 16v/8v's) " This needs changing at the top of that topic. Not correct. 8v & 16v engines can talk and very late G60's in 1992 production should but I haven't had a car to play with. You have to have the right interface between the PC & the car and enter at the right initial baud rate setting. .

Can only see 3 wires instead four on the brown & black. Ignore the blue. Therefore it's an anologue. The connectors whether 16pin or 2 x2 don't govern it being analogue or digial. It's 4 wires on the dual plugs (4 wires) or 16pin are digital. If 1, 2 or 3 wire on the 2x2 then it's analogue. (Slight twist, the 16 pin socket carries analogue as well as digital) .

Going price at GPC use to be £120 for gauge module when they had a stock of them. Didn't come as a kit as far as I know. 4 way connector on the back. Sender separate. Show enough interest and they may source a batch of RHD ones. Nice gauges, interestly the don't have the same pointers as the dash gauges. The pointer light up at night and the scale panel is white with over black painted mask using a green bulb. .

Storm77, I'd watch it closely tonight and for a while. Invert the story to assessing it!!! .

Yes for 3rd speed. The little loom has all three sensor's wire bundled together so it can't be far away. The positive is a Black / Yellow wire and the earthy side Black/White. I will need to look at pin numbering tonight for the brown sensor. I wouldn't put a 30 amp fuse in as that will possibly cause damage as it take more time to blow, given you have no air-con electrical loads. .

Look at the wires in the door to door pillar rubber gaitor area for chaffing to the body. Is the gaiter fully "lipped home, if not, the door skin edged can cut into the wires. It may be that the 12 volt wire to the switch illumination has been damaged. Black / Blue stripe wire. .

Bottom right of pic near oil filler on rocker cover. Forward and to right hand car side of filler hole. .

Only in England! :lol:

Maybe the alarm is using that Fuse 16 ignition 12 volt supply as part of it's battery & ignition feeds??? .

“have just looked at the thermostat housing and I find, from left to right, 1 dark coloured sensor with a 4 pins connected, the blue sensor with 2 pins connected and the brown sensor which has 4 pins but none are connected. ” 1st two sensors are OK, as expected. 3rd one, Brown sensor is telling me that the car has air-con, yeah? 30amp rather than 20amp in Fuse 6. 20 amp is no air-con and the 3rd sender is Balck with only 2 pins rather than 4. No wires at the brown sensor means where are they??? Third stage fan are Black/Yellow & Black/White wires. The air-con are Green/White & Green wires. I wonder if they are tucked away and touching 12 volts to earth, either the Black/Yellow (most likely) or the Green/White wires would blow the fuse (air-con “norm” or “max” switch has to be switched if this is fitted). I’m guessing but this engine may have worked air-con in the past and when you fitted it, it didn’t get air-con but the brown sensor wasn’t wired up for the 3rd stage fan or a 2 pin Black sensor fitted to be compatible with the car’s connector???? Haven’t got enough history of the car to understand which way the wires should be. Air-con or not air-con on the car side of things???? I doubt the Auxiliary Pump is the fault as there is a 5amp fuse protecting it on top of the fan controller. Just disconnect the Fan controller connections and test whether the fuse still pops. Also this fuse 6 supplies the air-con, so knock both switches off to isolate those circuits. Some of the fan controller 12 volts supply comes via fuse 19 30amp via the rad. thermo-switches in the rad. That’s why some of it works. Wire from fan speed controller to relay fuse panel is Black /Yellow and is same colour for tee’d to fan controller. The branching point is behind the relay panel. The relay panel loom plug is Q which is Blue and is a single vertical row connection, 6 pin. From left of car it’s on the top row, ie plugs Black, Black, Black, Green, Blue, Blue, Blue. Q is the middle Blue of the three Blues. Black/Yellow wire goes into pin 2, 2nd wire from the centre line of the panel. Worth tracing as it will eliminate the “trapped wire” in the dash thoughts. Chris

OK, I was going to suggest that. It's not a big sensor, about 1 cm diameter. .

Is there at least a threaded hole where you've been looking, ie. someone has removed the sensor? .

If fitted it's in the third hole on the thermostat housing, if fitted. If no brown 3rd fan switch (this is not the run-on after igniton off etc)(same position is used in the thermostat housing for the factory air-conditioning sensor), then there is only the fan controller loaded on the circuit, tee'd off as written before. ELSA, that's a lioness isn't it?? No, ELSA only covers post 1995 cars in general and the Corrado isn't on it except for the VR6 engine mechanicals & engine ECU. --------- As I read it early on in the first posting. Disconnecting the cabin fan didn't stop the fuse blowing so it's either a wire short or another component. If a short in the supply to the switch, then the fuse will blow no matter which fan speed is selected. If it's a short in the wires from the 4 speed fan control switch to the fan motor connector, then it should only short on one setting of the fan speed. (Also see the notes on the rad.fan controller as the “tee’d” wires are from this section of single wire) After that, it's down the tee'd off wires to the fan controller & third thermo-switch Wire colours earlier are on. Auxiliary pump is powered directly off the fan controller. And the Yellow sender in thermostat housing is its sensor as well as being the dash temp. gauge sender. Disconnecting the auxiliary water pump electrical connector will eliminate the doubt over that item causing it.

Which car model & year is it? Strange as the fuse is powered by the ignition 12 volts not the battery. I take it this happens AFTER the ignition is switched off. The fuse also supplies ignition 12 volts to the dash instrument cluster.

I think two separate faults as said? Hope this helps……. The 30 amp blower motor (cabin) fuse also powers the 3rd stage cooling fan and the rad. Fan control unit. The feed wire tee’d off between the relay plate and the dash switch. The supply also goes directly to the third stage fan switch in the thermostat housing. It’s not the yellow but the brown thermo switch if fitted. The wire is Black/Yellow. Also the same wire turns up at the rad. fan controller. No other loads on the circuit. So the cabin blower fan being isolated hasn’t taken out all the electrical loads. Reversing light . Loom wires down the left side. First break after the fuse box is a 2 pin in line connector in the left side of boot. If this is separated then rear fog light won’t work either as other pin of the two is used for this. Have you checked the reversing light switch in the engine bay. Black wire is ignition 12 volts. Black/Blue is output to the reversing lights. Switch connection is forward of cables under the rad. Fan. .

Most likely the door pin has moved on the body. Look at witness-marks to see if it's moved. Door lock isn't really able to moved unless loose. .

Possible the voltage regulator in the cluster has blown. Provides a stabilised voltage to all these gauges mentioned. Looks like a heat sinked transistor. Sits usually for the G60 on the PCB behind the fuel gauge. If it has gone, you may have a short somewhere on the PCB or the water temp sender or fuel tank gauge sender. Part number 357 919 803. (applicable for all Corrados) .

Jay, They are much the same as I spotted a bit of small print “then a further quarter turn”. So the body ones work out at 70Nm + qtr turn on the VR6. The odd one is the rear furthest back sub-frame directly into the body. That’s just 65Nm, no additional turn angle for a VR6 but all other Corrados it’s 80Nm. So damm tight is most likely OK and not worth a change. VR6 or G60? Use VR6 settings. .

In Stockport. .

Hello Jay, VR6 set-up as you presumably have fitted the VR6 struts as well as the wishbones. The torques are suspension fitted determined, not engine size. Give us a wave some time as you pass a prestine white Scirocco going the other way. Bridge Lane one morning last week going to Hazel Grove. Chris

For “Basic Running Gear” only. (All EXCEPT Corrado VR6) Front = 130Nm ( 96 lb ft) Rear = 130Nm ( 96 lb ft), (I assume you mean the one through the bush vertically) For “Plus Running Gear” only. (Corrado VR6 only) Front = 50Nm (37 lb ft) then a further quarter turn Rear = 70Nm (52 lb ft) then a further quarter turn, (I assume you mean the one through the bush vertically) SLC = VR6 as said above, so that’s correct. .

No dedicated relay missing as such, but it’s powered by the “X” relief relay which it the 2nd relay from passenger side on row above the fuse which it should be on the panel on MK2. On Corrado this relay is the 3rd relay from the right second row up from the fuses, part no. 191 937 503 marked “18” on top. It also powers the fog lights, front & rear wipers and HRW. In VR6 loom a wire Black/Yellow stripe comes off the back of the fuse/relay panel for +12 volts from X relief relay cicuit. Goes to the fan dash switch. Switch goes 4 ways – (slowest – fastest) 1. White wire, 2. Yellow/Black wire, 3. Yellow wire, 4. White/Yellow wire. .

Wrong plug for a VR6!! Plug shown is correct type, It looks like No.6 has busted a piston ring. Do a compression test to confirm. Bad news :( unfortunately - common VR6 design problem with No.1 & 6 cylinders on higher mileage VR6 engines. .