RW1

The 00515 fault does that. Chuggs when in that condition. .

I'm only doing 1,200 miles a year in mine and have very little trouble. It's garaged dry. Always runs over 15 miles to dry the exhaust out. The main deterioration will come from the elements unless you store it away in a dry garage. .

Also, Momo and VDO clusters don't interchange their components, ie speedo, rev counter etc. .

Cos it's missing two pages! But a warning does appear on page 30.4. I use a long tube into a bottle and hand pump the pedal. The tube in the engine bay is initially vertical with the nipple left open to ensure a head of fluid forms and the air rises. It's part of a large vacuum brake bleeder that collect 4.0 ltrs. Glad you're sorted now :thumbleft: .

To get this only VW from August 1990 onwards build standard have the switch built into the ignition barrel plus the wires needed. ie. Chassis 50Mk000001 onwards 1988/89 ie. 50KK****** & LK******, don't have the facility and you will have to rig up a two way switch with centre off to make sure no 12 volt back feed occurs between the ignition and battery when switched. .

Generally 00515 fault is usually genuine as the camshaft position sensor. The fault needs to be cleared after the replacement CPS is fitted. 0.5 hr DIY (£37+VAT). .

Sorree to hear the news Rodders. Know exactly how you feel. Lost both that way. It's how I ended up with a Storm (M '95) and a new house (D'01). Nice motor. Where are you going to let that loose? .

I just wonder with taking out the cat whether the lambda probe is in the exhaust or has been damaged or a wire to the probe head is broken. The probe being out and daggling is highly unlikely but.... Does the engine seem as though it is running slightly rich mixture. I find a little bit unlikely that when fixing the exhaust, the ignition leads have suddenly gone faulty. Eyeball the probe under the car and see if it's screwed into the cat bypass and secondly check it out on VAG-COM and make sure whenthe engine is warm it is oscillating with values in the range 0.95 - 1.05. If outside these readings or it is frozen on a value, usually 1, it needs looking at for a damaged probe or broken wires at the probe head. .

Yes and I can't say from a safety angle its sensible given a dual bright light means brakes, but the original design and minmum requirement was for 1 on the off side to avoid confusion with brake lights (back in the late 1970's). Whether it's a bike or a car in fog. It's still the same space on the road! I can't remember which Vauxhall puts out the tail lights and puts on dual fog lights but that makes it even more confusing. Technically a picky MoT man will fail the dual fogs in what you are suggesting as the brightness is not even due to the difference in reflectors plus the car was never cleared with dual lamps. You want to try my MoT man! But at least I know my cars are sound on the day they were tested. It's the same when fitting LED replacement bulbs in place of the filament bulbs. They aren't acceptable a) cos the car wasn't specified with them and b) the reflector wasn't designed for them for the correct light scatter/focus. End of the day, you take your choice. :) "I think you can buy the light unit off a LHD car to get a reflector on both sides (can anyone confirm this?)" Yep, the LHD left inner unit has a fog light mirror relector built into it like the UK right hand one. Got one to hand and checked. Part No. is 535 945 107 not 107A as fitted to UK Corrados at build / delivery .

Two rear fog lights is confusing. In fog it looks like brake lights. That is why it's one on most cars with sense. .

Not sure where you've got to with this old boy, but the clutch pedal assembly is sprung assisted. Push it with the slave cylinder open past about 1 inch of depression and the spring takes over. The pedal zips into the footwell fairly pronto!! Must always "hold" the pedal by hand when pushed with the clutch slave bleed nipple open. Then close the slave nipple and pull the pedal back up by hand. Repeat to bleed through and make sure the brake reservoir fluid level remains above the clutch hydraulic tap off point. .

If the car has been stood a while, ie. on the car sales patch, it's not unusual. It needs airing a little. Heater sounds fine. Give a few days before you start to worry. Things may just dry out by Monday. .

Remind me not to kick the tyres on your aircraft! :) .

Stan, FLA was having probs with getting the switch contacts "tin" in the topic so they soldered. He hasn't come back since. I'll ask him when he PMs me on something else soon. What did you do to overcome that? Chris .

Exchange that for rubbed paintwork. You can't win! :wink: .

Read this topic. LEDs is not simple in the facelift dash HRW switch . http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= .

VW shut it down 12 months ago. .

Same age. 1988 - 1991

Cheers Stan. Just being lazy plus the PC is unstable due to McAfee loaded a while back and hopefully will be able to rebuild it over Christmas. .

Yeah I get that in the Scirocco regularly and I'm drawing my pension! Rocco drivers are confused when I do it in the Corrado. Not like the old Beetle days. These days, flash u're lights and some one pulls out from the side. Not for the faint hearted as the rocco goes into emergency brake mode. .

To be overbrushed or lightly sprayed every 12 months to keep it from drying out :wink: .

There is a power supply voltage problem with engine ECU and its sensor voltage supplies, hence why I said check the 3 things listed previously. IT IS NOT SENSORS, MAF OR CATS etc. The problem is arising cos all the sensors have got no power to them at some stage and a set of faults have been stored. It's not wiring by the looks of it as none are all common but they all take 12 volts power from the engine ECU. 00513 is to be ignored if the engine wasn't running. Like wise the immobiliser / ECU blocked. .

Separate part that plugs in but you will need to take the whole binicle asemby apart. If MFA is correct, then electric speed sensor on gearbox is OK and therefore the speedo head is suspect. Scrapper from a Passat will work but make sure the speedo maker is the same, VDO or Momo. They cannot be swapped. The makers name is on the face dial above the pointer's spindle. .

Yessss, just 10 were officially sold by VW dealers in 1986/7, all LHD. Know of two that were converted to RHD by the owners. 1986 only sales really priced at £12,183 on the road, GTX was £10,757. The production span was 1985 to 1989 elsewhere. The sports box is 20 - 21 mph per 1,000 rpm while some early Mk2s (carb versions) got the 4+E box which did 24.5 mph per 1,000 rpm. Goof was much the same, ratios varied a little but it boiled down to Sports or 4+E gearbox. Boot, yeah, read as gaping hole that swallows everything. Moved house with one! No van needed. .

GT2 is Group 14, Scala & GTX are Grp 15. .