RW1

How much though in your estimation is it getting drunk by? What mpg are you getting? .

I don't know why they just don't stuff it on the petrol price and do away with the whole scam. Then you pay as you go. Very fair. Cuts the queuing and dare I say, stops the job creation and therefore costs of administering the scheme. .

If the battery has been disconnected, then you've lost the throttle calibration to the engine ECU. The ECU and throttle body need to be harmonised using the Basic Settings set-up procedure, then it will do 5th at 30mph smoothly! Bottom half of this thread..... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= .

For the VR6 2.9ltr, there is very little difference if any in the dyno graphs below 4,000 rpm between 95 & 98RON petrol grades (ECU automatically adjusts). The extra comes significantly in the 5,500rpm range to 6,500rpm area. +1RON=............ .

:wink: .

The squeeling symptom sounds like the clutch release bearing is noisey. .

:ignore: :ignore: :lol: Of course they would :) But which bank do you rob? Pity you didn't get a photo. .

Excellent Paul. :thumbleft: .

"Capacitors: where is the MFA circuit board, shown in Kongo's post?" Its inside the instrument cluster. .

Yeah Assumed this in the earlier note as G60rob has '92 G60 brain power just the last few months of production if I remember rightly. Earlier ones are as Henny says. .

Whot me? :roll: :angel: Totally agree on injection, much smoother engine but not as torquey at the bottom end unless a 16v/Audi 5 cylinder warm-up regulator is plumbed in and a vacuum run from the inlet manifold vacuum. .

Thats how I understand it from about a week ago in the papers. 100 outlets in the southeast only at the moment after an initial few in a trial period. If you can find it, Total Super is the supposedly the highest rated before the recent fuel version appeared but when I tried it 2 years ago in the VR6, there was no noticeable difference to Sainsbury's or BP or Texaco supers. Can't speak for Shell (yuk I'm afraid but petrol & oils, despite what I read about their Optimax version, my 8v engines seem to carbon up and stop starting first turn of the key after about two weeks) Peronally use Sainsbury's Super. Cheap and the preformance is there, much on a par with Texaco Super. .

April/May 1985 1st release of GTS, 1,000 cars with 1800 carb engine & 4+E gearbox. Basically a stripped down GTX with steel pepperpot wheels, no c/locking, but the brakes and suspension. 4 colours red, white, black & blue. Sports seats interior. Steel sunroof option. Red seems to have been 50% of the colours made, followed by white, black and it was rare to see the blue version. (This all applies to the UK model version only). Had a red one for 6 years. Nice motorway gear the "E" with engine at 2,750 at 65 mph-ish if I remember. Carb became of bother though after 50K miles (Pierburg 2E2) as the oil fumes/breather became stronger due to wear. Only an injection one bought new very cheaply winkle picked me out of it. 3rd gear was very good given it only had 90bhp. April/May 1986 2nd release. 750 cars. Same car basically but 3 darkish metallic colours, sports 5 speed geabox, 1800 90bhp carb engine again (P-2E2), pirelli P wheels as standard. Sports GTX running gear and sports seats. Steel sunroof an option. (This all applies to the UK model version only) Gun metal grey metallic seems to have been the most made version of the three colours. The GTS was a model name used in other markets but the spec of those differs again. The trick a few peeps did in the early years was to stick the "S" badge on the rear panel of a 1600GT of the same age and claim GTS 7.5% price uplift as per Parkers guide. There was no real way of knowing unless you knew the model had to have a 1800 engine. This trick applied to the 1985 1st batch version as the solid colours were still more popular at that time and you could hardly tell the two car apart. .

If the engine is original fit potatoenet, the car wasn't built then! They were 16v 1.8ltrs at that time. Think this is most likely a good retrim. .

Part No. 535 945 107* ie. * = what? Out of interest. Had the car since import? USA & Canada was another market standard, particularly lights which is why the Bentley is only useful as a guide on lights. .

Only black, platinum (grey) and two shades of beige from the factory in all years apart from limited run specials like the Campaign which weren't "publically available" cars initially any way.. Green cloth from the factory though. .

It doesn't surprise me yalan, if we can't keep up with it, like you say... how can the civil servants :wink: Interesting though that Rodders got the same last week as I did a while back. Think dazzyvr6 has the best advice given DVLA offices are interpreting the rules differently. "i think your better phoning up the LOCAL DVLA office and talk to someone, as there is a lot of conflicting advice :? ". .

Yalan, not for me at the DVLA, so someone must have either have been awkward at the office or they have different rules your way! I think it may be hidden in the words below from the DVLA website. "How to apply for a Cherished Transfer The transfer scheme enables a registration number to be moved directly from one vehicle to another. Only the registered keeper of a vehicle is entitled to apply to transfer its registration number." In the bolded part, I would interpret that to mean my name has to appear on both logbooks. Maybe your DVLA office person was not quite on the ball when you went in that day. Be interesting to see how this one pans out as it casued me a lot of inconvenience at the time as I had to wait for the logs books to be updated. Useful: http://www.dvla.gov.uk/vehicles/cherish ... 0Transfers. .

Yep done it. You can't transfer between cars unless your name is on both log books at the given time of the submission/request.

The metal outer body of the unit will do fine. .

You weren't far out D. :wink: The change varies from car to car, some hardly anything, some a very noticable change. Don't bother with the ECU disconnect as I've found that it takes about 4 hours driving to "settle" the ECU memory on the lambda probe side of things. It should be OK as it is. Just do the the B.S., but check the measuring blocks group 006 for the probe is oscillating in the range 0.95 - 1.05 with the engine full warmed up. Don't be too bothered by the idle, mid (part) and full throttle fixed values in the other three fields. Oh, AND no faults in the engine ECU. Not just clearing them but they mustn't re-occur. Here's a typical sample of the VR6 measuring blocks. There is a lot of variance between engines. .

DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) 00515, Camshaft Position Sensor G40 open cicuit or short to earth. Common fault on VR6. The unit (CPS) sits in the left (near) side of the engine cylinder head on coil pack cars. It is a Hall Effect Sensor sensing a rotating disc (trigger wheel) on the camshaft. On dizzy VR6 engines, its the usual hall effect sender in the distributor and seems to be more reliable. Later coil pack engines CPS seem to all fail at some time. It's there to detect the chains jumping the cog teeth, putting the valve gear out of sync. But these sensors also stop working correctly at higher rpms initially. When it happens, the ECU puts the engine into limp home mode by retarding the ignition and the upper rev limit. So the engine feels slightly rough and looses power noticeably. This condition remains until the fault is cleared using diagnostics (a battery disconnect will clear it but the ECU settings are also lost!). The fault is rectified by obviously changing the CPS but also, the DTC has to be cleared at the same time otherwise the ECU remains in limp home mode until 30 switch-ons have occurred when the ECU wipes the fault automatically. The official 30 I wonder about as my own experience suggests it's more like 50 for stored faults. You need to do diagnostics to see if it's there. It's one of the fault codes that tells the obvious truths.

Dinkus, the time actually depends what’s hanging on the battery circuit in the way of accessories and their 12 volt “capacitance”. A bare Corrado VR6 looses it within 30 seconds. If ICE etc can back feed the 12 volt battery circuit (not the ignition), then the ECU memory is powered for longer after the battery is disconnected. Disconnect the battery earth lead, not the positive when it's done. Basic Settings is discussed in more detail here and the procedure is in the image on the first page. Can be done any time and as many times. Servicing calls it up every 20k miles. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= Important to blip the throttle part way so the ECU sees the engine go up above 2,500 rpm (say 3,000 rpm) for a couple of seconds (higher and longer are not necessary) at the beginning after entering Basic Settings. The minimum sample time is 2 minutes and no electrical loads such as interior fan, radio, HRW should be on. It is OK if the rad fan switches on and off. When time is past 2 minutes since the throttle blip, then exit when no electrical loads are on other than the ignition, ie. the radiator fan. The maximum time in B.S. doesn’t matter. 2 minutes minimum allows enough sampling in the offset mode for the ECU to complete the necessaries. .

Should be, one up in the dash at the bonnet pull. And another maybe further forward. Whats the voltage reading between the alternator body earth and the battery earth pole with the engine idling. Needs to be done with a DVM. .

Shows I'm human. Allowed 0.1% error. :wink: .