RW1

The difference in one sentence. Or should I say why there are two filters. Also impacts on the seal if the filter housing to engine block is the Golf version so order the right there as well if you ever decide to take it all off. .

Guessed it was a VR6 but put alternative data just in case. Bushes, yeah, would agree and quite likely. Like you say, mileage of the car is unknown. .

Yip, The rear bumper cover when the bayonet ball towing arm isn't fitted. You two are going to tell me that every other Corrado tows a caravan in Bristol & Trowbridge!! Only one to go........... .

No cheating and phoning VW chaps! Cheating isn't allowed. Anyway it's weekend. I'll post answers tomorrow night if I can after I get back from Ragley Hall. The panel has been asked about in the last week. I've only ever seen one in ten years so that's how rare it is. It is a cover but where? It lets a Corrado do something but rarely a Corrado does it. .

But if you pack the right rear, the left rear could go worse and stay out of spec!!! Rear camber on post '90 - all C's is 1'30" +/- 10". There's something twisted about this rear axle. Left rear stub axle bent slightly?? --------- Plus the front right camber is out as well and needs adjusting to be -1'20" +/-20". Assuming this is a VR6. If not all other models are -0'40" +/- 20", in which case the front left is out. .

Yandards, there are no shims. Engineering shims, peel off affairs, choose your thickness and then split the supplied pack at that point. Quite rare to find. .

Ermmmm. No. But it is rare! "lets make this really hard!" So I did! There is a clue if you are clever about it, ie. examine the evidence presented. .

First make sure the coolant mix is 40% G12+ /60% water, not 50%/50% but remember if the winter gets to -15'C for a few winter days to run the engine regularly or top up the G12+ by 0.5 litres. Then decide on the grille. To do with winter climate and warm up, like the covers/hjckets on radiators many year ago to restrict cold air. Unfortunately the world has got warmer in summers (GW) and milder in the winters for the UK. VR6 take 15 minutes to fully warm up unlike a 8v/16v taking 10 minutes. And it restricts the icy blast into the engine bay at speed whichg will over cool the engine causing raised fuel consumption. .

Scan 3 & 4 to go. Well done to those on scan 1 & 2. 1 My tailpipe with crystals inside after winter storage one year a while back. 2 MAF sensor used on the 1995 VR6 - The thin film sensor version. .

Maybe mine at a show but then the original 1 open slat grille is in the loft. Engine runs cooler by upto 3'C on the oil temp with all three slats open. (104'C motorway/96-98 30 - 40 town) 1995 production used the 1 open slat grille so the only distinguishing mark is that the Storm grilles were colour coded to the body paint colour, other C's weren't. 10 years on and thats a different story today. Generally the spare grille available from suppliers like the dealers and GPC has been the 3 open slat one. Hence when broken, that is what has been the replacement. Only one way to publically verify its a Storm - VAG phone call (Or PM me with a chassis number and I will....... :ignore: :wink: ) .

Check the wire as far back as you can go in the loom with a pin and see if you can get 12 volts with igniton on. If OK, either a broken wire between the connector and where you've peirced it. If not, then your into opening up the loom. To determine that, you need to look where all the black/white stripe wires enter the loom as it feeds across the car. Things on the "branched" black /white stripe wire are: Carbon canister solenoid valve (2 wires the same), cold start valve, ISV & gearbox speed sender. My guess is that the wire may be broken inside the insulation sleeve just as it leaves the ISV plug. But If I understand you right, "black and white wire to the ISV before the connector" so that is kyewashed. Does the wire twist/bend anywhere further back? If so, test on the fuse/relay panel side for 12 volts. Has it chaffed on something and burnt out? Oui. That is the ECU's internal function. Electronically switched. The fact you have no 12 volts on the black wire/white stripe is you problem. Cannot at this stage see the relevance of chasisng the earth side. Sort the 12 volts out first onto the ISV plug via the black/white stripe wire from the fuse/relay panel. .

OK. Lets try these..... Had to scan them just now. .

“POWER” - Ignition ON 12 volts via Fuse 15. - Through plug position G2, pin 4 on the back of the fuse/relay panel. - Plug G2 is 9th plug (White) on the top row from the end that starts immediately with a multi pin 8 way yellow plug, not the end from the 3 single connectors. - Pin 4 of G2 has a black wire with white stripe, which splices in the ECU loom several ways**. - Black wire with white strip comes out at the ISV plug. Nowt else is involved, no idle switches. The idle switch is down stream on the far side of the ECU electronics signalling the ECU, not the ISV. ** cold start valve black wire with white strip should have ignition 12 volts as this is off the same splice in the ECU loom.

Stuck on with strong doublesided tape. Use a heat gun or hair dryer and gently ease off. What's left use something like white spirit to soften the tape on the body or carefully remove with a rubber wheel tool. There are previous topics on this in more detail. .

Or the paint code & paint colour on the bar code strip on the inner front wing panel by the airbox. .

There are some real idiot drivers on the road these days, they use to travel in buses. No you are not alone. Just the way the roads have gone these days with people & cheapness of cars. ie the car is a throwaway it with some wildlife. It became noticeable to me about the mid 1990's onwards when things like bus deregulation came in and services got poor forcing more to use cars. You have to learn to anitcipate and give room and never trust until the other driver has definetely committed. Better safe than sorree. I share your frustration. It's nearly every day now. Patience grasshopper, a few seconds more and you will still get to where you wish to be. I just wonder what orbit they are in sometimes. They are in charge of a 1 ton lump of metal and it does do damage, even at slow speed. THe driving test of some re-sit form should be compulsory for all us every 5 to 10 years. And deisgned to catch bad habits. That would weed them off the roads. Maybe the price of fuel will help soon. Rant over. .

Yep, the KE Motronic ECU controls the ISV directly like the VR6 ECU. -------- First of all, is fuse 15 (10 amps) OK? This is the source supply to the ISV, 12 volts ignition. The ISV has the ignition 12 volts on the black with white stripe wire. The black wire goes to the ECU plug on pin 17 and is the on/off signal demand and is effectively the electronic "grounding" wire to the circuit to actuate the ISV. If no ignition volts on the black with white stripe wire, also check the cold start valve’s ignition 12 volts supply on it’s black with white stripe. This uses the same 12 volt source and the wires are spliced in the ECU loom. .

Aye, only 4,800 baud rate setting works for this engine ECU part no. 8A0 907 404L or 8A0 907 404CC and VAG-COM must be preset to use this baud rate in "Options" first...... plus the interface must be electrically not optically isolated. .

Apart from Stan's "voltage" problem, if the thermal fuse blows, it's worth.... Checking the fan bottom bearing is OK. It usually needs a spot of grease. It's this bearing that to get stiff with time and thus pushes the thermal fuse until it finally gives up. .

Yes it has. It's the alternative name in some diagnostic kits for the Camshaft Position Sensor. Reason is, that in a way it does control the ignition timing inside the ECU. The Goof diagnostics uses the terminology for it's CPS If the fault was cleared when you went in, then the problem should have gone away until perhaps you put the engine up above 4,000 rpm. Depends on how old the fault is as the sensor deteriorates and the RPM comes down where it starts to fail. If they didn't clear the fault, you can clear it by disconnecting the earth on the battery for a minute and then reconnecting. If from cold it drives normally until "revved", ie. keep the rpm down for while, while you test it, then the culprit is the Camshaft Position Sensor. I have big doubts though that it is the CPS as you say it drives OK after 5 minutes from start up. If the CPS has gone, as written by Kev., "you lose 30hp", I would expect the problem to be there all the time. And only happening after a gearchange doesn't really fit in either with one of the normal fault reaction conditions which is retarded ignition, ie. "Limp Home Mode". I am more inclined to think that this is a cold fuelling/mix problem and therefore would look at the temperature intake probe and what reading it's showing. It can be looked at in Measuring Blocks (08 ), Group 003, field 4. Suggest you look and see what the reading is as the engine starts, it should be somewhere near what the dash outside temp is reading but will rise to 60' or 70'C at running temps at idle. I think the fault found was with engine not running, the good old 00513 April fool of OBD1 pre mid '90s cars like the Corrado. .

It's a pointless search/exercise at the end of the day Kev, .... As Rodders says, the DVLA has no way of knowing as there was no separate identification of the Corrado Storm, so the word Storm is not on their database wrt the Corrado. Chassis numbers are scattered and follow no pattern you could programme in. If it was done on colours/interiors, only the Mystic Blue would be accurate. If VAG were to be approached, they only know the original number. Their car history logs depend on the cars being serviced at the dealerships. 10 years on and how may Storms get serviced at the dealers these days. I'd guess at most 40% as their present owners won't cos they aren't the sort that do use dealers as it's toooooo costly. I for instance stopped the dealer servicing after 5 years. So VAG have no way of knowing whats left and whats trashed. Then there are the exported Storms. I know of at least two which are now abroad. One in Eire and the other is in New Zealand. Small number but again that could be say 4 to 5 overall on a statistical basis. The only way to hazard a guess is to ask the DVLA how many VR6 Corrados were registered in Sept'04 to P reg (whatever that is) [ie. the last years production sold over 2.5 years, about 1300 to 1500 cars including the Storms] and then how many of those are left on the road today. (No use using all Corrados figure in the UK as that warps the factoring cos it takes into account aged cars] Apply that factor to the 500 Storms and thet will give you rough order of magnitude. My Guess would come out at about 350 to 400. The car is not uncommon by the secondhand sales and they're not the same cars each time so the above figure 350 to 400 wouldn't surprise me. Maybe even as high as 425. Chris .

Just for the record on this topic. 12/9/05 Stan, Whats the battery like? New? If old it may be past it a little but your alternator perhaps needs checking. The combination could be giving a poorly charged battery. The lights flicking you describe suggest a low charged battery for some reason. It's usually the battery but I don't know the car's history. Cos the battery may be low in volt's, things shut down at about 9.5 - 10.0volts, hence it won't start cos the starter drops the volts to below 9.5 -10.0 volts. The other common culprit to poor starting is a the grey coloured plastic cover version of relay 109 (ECU relay). Black plastic cover relays don't seem to be prone to this one. They are prone to corrosion / cracking of contacts on the inside of the base plate. Open up the relay and check it's clean inside. My view it's the battery but before rushing out and buying a new one. Charge it up if you can. Must go upto somewhere like 14.5 volts after 24 hours on a slow (4 - 6 amp) charge rate. Then leave for 6 hours. See what the voltage settles at. Is Ok if above 12.25 ish volts. Below this it's tired. If 12.0 volts or below, definitely change it. Chris ------------- 12/9/05 Stan, Whiles you are checking the battery, just check with no electrical loads switched on that the battery terminals are sitting at 13.75 to 14.00 volts at idle and the same at 1,500 - 2,000 rpm speed (not speed critical). It shouldn't change. If it does remain a steady voltage across the battery terminals and the battery afterwards checks out OK, then the alternator could be suspect. Cheers Chris -------------- 13/9/05 Hi Stan, I haven’t an ETKA parts list with me. By all accounts the voltage regulator should be available separately but you may find the only option is to buy at the dealers. I doubt the regulator pack being transferred as the new one usually comes with it unless someone swapped it cos they needed it at the garage. It won’t have done the battery any good and the voltages you are seeing are the steady state ones. The dynamic ones will be much higher and there is in the long run probably some battery damage so just keep an eye on things after the alternator is sorted. No need to change but if you can open filler caps, watch the electrolyte levels for 3 months, 1st month weekly after that once a month. It will certainly be your starting problems. It may also sort out the other problems as well. The latter could be because the engine ECU needed to be put through “Basic Settings” procedure, the second part of the ECU reset procedure. Changing the battery now requires you to do the whole procedure in “Knowledge Base”, the second half is badly laid out in the text but there is a thread with it all set out so it can be read here on the second part – Basic Settings, note it is ECU specific in the note at the bottom. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... c&start=60 http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= Chris .

And? .

Fuse 16 is also the central locking on some Cs. Check the wires for chaffing in the rubber gaitor area between the door pillars and doors. .

From what I see in the wiring diagrams for all UK C's, all wiring is the same. The only change in the switch is an extra pin, 58D for the dim-dip. 58D is a straight out +12 volts. The mechanical interchange in the dash hole is my only doubt. I don't see why not...... Others such as the daylight running switch don't interchange. Wiring is different.