RW1

Lambda probe is goosed. VAG-COM 0.95 to 1.04 oscillating about every 0.5 seconds to 1 seconds at idle. Your's isn't. .

I just wonder if you've got a double fault of both the 0513 & 515 faults. I think it would be worth having another look at the stored faults.

No probs ;) .

That's 535 953 141B .

The comparison is like for like, so although the reading has slight inaccuracies, it’s good enough. What you’ve done so far is put the ECU through a rapid learning mode for 10 minutes after starting the engine. If the lambda probe wasn’t changed when the exhaust was renewed, it wasn’t that necessary. In doing the battery disconnect, you’ve lost everything in what the ECU knew about it’s sensors. Basic Setting restores that by putting the ECU into an offset mode whereby it samples it’s sensors and makes adjustments. Mainly very fine tuning for emissions. One of the things that’s been lost is the throttle position through the throttle position sensor. So at lower rpm’s the ECU doesn’t respond well and given you got 34 mpg on the way home, I assume that was on relatively light throttle settings most of the time. Cos the throttle is unknown to the ECU, you may not really realise it but your foot in combination with MAF is giving a coarser fuel mixture. This usually results in about 1 to 2 mpg typically but 8 mpg difference does seem a lot. Sure you are not now enjoying the car’s performance J When you get VAG-COM plugged in, to do Basic Settings on Group 000 or 001 depending on the ECU part number your see in VAG-COM v instructions above, it will have to be a licensed copy as this facility is not in the “freeware” download. Also while you are in the engine ECU, I suggest you take a note of the fault codes for later discussion on here if they exist, clear them down, then drive 30 minutes, then look at the fault codes again in the engine ECU and note what has re-appeared. Also, just do again the ECU battery disconnect & then drive it around followed by Basic Settings about an hour or two later (ignition/engine running on timed hours!) when initial settling of the lambda probe should have happened (in other words, do the disconnect and 10 minute drive one day and do BS a few days later) and see what happens to the mpg. .

It's a early front left turn signal indicator -clear plastic version ! .

If you're stuck with wires when you get a plug, PM me. Be better to get a 16 way later version as you won't need to buy / rig up an adapter with the VAG-COM lead's plug (16 way). Try and get the 16 way plug with wire still in it so that you can terminal block connect upto the ECU 4 wire loom. .

If there is a demand, VW are in business. They will hand out a set of drawings and get a batch made in much the same way as Trimsport are making some badges & foils except T/s don't have the original drawings to work to. Do it very often in my industry if a customer(s) demand gives us a profit margin on the supplier's limited run. Even when the part comes from the same supplier, the supplier may have lost the original patterns so makes a copy mold ?? and adding the numbering and lettering such as in my Corrado lens just adds further cost or VW gave alleviation to keep base price down. Who knows. The GPC lens in question has a VW Germany parts stock delivery tag as per the UK dealerships. Now discover also I have two LHD headlight lens while in the box which ain't much use to me. .

Supercharged, I think that recently VW have been outsourcing a quite a few parts to alternative vendors from the original for the older parts. Have had instances of wheels and corrado headlight glass as two. The Corrado glass came via GPC and was totally different glass "pattern" and not the USA spec either by mistake. RHD deflection in it. Annoying as it doesn't match the other originals if it needs to be used. It *** DOES*** :oops: state Hella on it. Edit: Just checked the parts stock (pile). Has Hella and has the glass ribbed but devoid of markings and the Hella symbol is positioned much nearer the middle. .

What are you mpg figures based on? dash or pump litres filled? Sounds also as though haven't done the second part of the procedure for Basic Settings. ECU reset is a VW term. It doesn't mean reset per say. The term translates as ECU is "rapid learning" in the first half ie. battery disconnect & drive sequence, and ECU is "harmonising" in the second half ie. harmonising the ECU and sensor inputs so it knows where everything is. I suggest you do Basic Settings with VAG-COM noting early VR6 ECU's do it differently to later ones in the procedure and see how you go from there, plus get accurate mpg figures for comparison. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= The battery disconnect can always been done again but I doubt you'll get anything different providing that when you started the engine and immediately within the first 10 minutes (from starting) were driving the car not leaving it idling. This sort of change doesn't usually happen when disconnecting the ECU. 3 mpg maybe but not 8. .

Seat element heater element or thermistor has gone u/s then. Follow the knowledge based repair link above for the driver's seat. .

Check the ABS sensors. 1.2kohm +/- 300 ohm. Fronts at the wheel hub, need to get the wheels off, connector almost on the back of the disc. Follow the black wire down to the wheel hub to find the connector to disconnect. Rears are the black wire under the rearpassenger seat squabs, separate the fat bit to open. Front one the most likely. .

The VAG diagnostics 16 way connection. .

This may be coincidence of two cars, but I wonder with this one whether the handle has fail mechanically in the past and been replaces by a non-C/L one. As Supercharge states, made be neccessary to take off to see if the wires are damaged or even there! .

The securing nut just above the oil filter on the botom face of the oil cooler is done up to 18ft lb (25Nm). Tighter may deform and crack the oil cooler body. Oil seal if needed under the top flange above the oil cooler is 038 117 070A. You may not get a good seal if it's deformed or split. So check it before tightening it all up. .

The fuse is No. 14 , 10 amps on all C's 1988 to 1995. No indication on the dash when the knobs are rolled 1 - 5. Only you bum gets warm soon afterwards. But you do hear a quiet click of a relays from under the seat squab on the rear passenger side. If these work, the fault is in the seat itself. They are thermostatically controlled by an element in each seat. Two elements fitted, seat bottom and backrest. The elements are in series so if one fails they both go. If both seats have stopped working, are the connectors under the seats connected? .

Nope! Come on Kev. All VR6 factory fit leads were the thin black affairs. If they are red, they are replacements. VW deleted the black coloured spares very soon after about 1997. 33k Storm must have had repleacements fitted and they don't fit as well in the channel guides. .

Have them checked. .

You may get away with cross linking the ISV's supply wire to the CSV but.... The wire out of the fuse/relay panel is a 1mm wire which then splits into 4 ways into 0.5mm wire. The ISV could just be overating the wires if hung on the CSV wire. You don't know what the failure is and loading up another part of the loom could melf things. I would be happier to say yes if the reason for this happening had been found so I'm inclined to bypass the loom by going backto the fuse/relay panel area for your pick-up point. The safe way is to run a wire off one of the ignition single point connections on the back of the fuse/relay panel to the ISV with an in line fuse or.... Find the 1mm black with white stripe wire on the back of the fuse/relay panel at plug position G2, pin 4. Plug G2 is 9th plug (White) on the top row from the end that starts immediately with a multi pin 8 way yellow plug. Splice your new connection for the ISV from here as it's derivingits power at this point in the same way as the original loom. Run the feed through the bulkhead into the engine bay.. etc,. I'm surprised you didn't find it. Did you check out the loom ISV wire at the fuse/relay panel end before it dissappears into the loom? ie. plug G2 pin 4 and where does it go to. The splice 4 ways I would expect to be before the first black with white stripe pops out of the loom assembly to one of the 4 items listed earlier on. It's curious why it has broken as where I would expect to find it, its not likely to get broken unless you did something in the engine bay recently or under the dash. Any thing come to mind????? .

Fronts stop stone chipping on the lower doors. Rears the same on the rear bumper sides. And then there is always these front & rear versions off the C's sister cars .......... .

Size of the headlight unit's doesn't change. It's the angle of slope of the glass that changes causing a recessed of proud effect. 3 slope gradients in all. The gap should be constant, as viewed at headlight level, horizontally into the front wing/vertical short side. What does the gap measure? And which two points are you using? Wing edge to start of glass edge as a suggestion. .

Got more but someone else have the next go. Virtual pints & figment crisps with the next lot. .

Wouldn't that depend on what you've been quoted for? The only difference is the paint needs and elasticer added to it. The sprayer will know this otherwise the paint cracks & flakes after a while. Ask them. .

"whats this1.jpg" Looks like part of your radiator grille upside down. .

Scan 4 " look of an oil pump about it." Maybe give half a point there as u're not entirely certain. It is a VR6 oil pump in bits. In fact this one had failed after 50,000 miles running on Mobil 1 0w40 oil. The spring and plunger are the main parts of the pressure relief valve. The plunger had rattled so much inside the tube that a ridge had formed. Eventually the plunger part had jam askew inside causing a whoping 23 bar (350ish psi) at idle when cold. The tappets & valves were wide open all the time presumably but the engine still managed to run, a little lumpy though! .