VRTrickster

Right,Im going to take the rado off the road this weekend, to give the rear axle a total refurbishment! Im thinking of doing the solid brake lines myself, along with everything else of course! Just wondering who has done this before and where they got their pipe, tools etc? And also whether it was a complete nightmare, or fairly straight forward? Any tips on carrying out this job would be great!

I used the lambda from the Golf, as it is different to the early Corrado VRs. Im not sure about the later 95 on though, check with etka. Tips, well, I would get the Golfs wiring diagrams as there a few more plugs that are part of the engine loom, like headlights etc, which will need disconnecting. The loom should plug straight into the Corrado fusebox, no problem. It depends on how far you want to go with the neatness of it. I removed all the unused loom, which as long as you cross reference to the Corrado loom, and the diagrams, It was well worth it! Good luck with the conversion, you wont regret carrying it out, its really worth the time and effort! :)

Yeah thats a bit better Supercharged, cheers! I forgot about AVS :turn-l:

Where would be the cheapest place to buy some rear abs sensors? Ive looked at GSF and ECP.

Does anybody have the part number for these bushes please?

Im just about to paint my MK4 calipers up, and I noticed on the tins, that it suggests using their special metals primer. I dont know whether to stick with Hammerite, or fork out for some caliper paint? Im painting mine Grey 8)

Well hopefully they will be ok, Im just concerned that they will sit to close to the front struts?

Ive just ordered some wheels which are 17" x 7.5" with a 45 offset. I was just wondering if these would work with out fitting spacers? The car is only lowered on Koni adjustable shocks with H&R springs, which I think is around 35-45mm.

I got in contact with 16VG60, as I looked up that he had apparently done the 256 conversion to a MK2. Some good news, he replied. He told me that he had developed a vented rear brake package for the Corrado which can utilize either the 256mm 4 Motion vented rear discs or 288mm vented discs. Im going to give him a call to see whats involved :)

Have you got the 280mm solid disc conversion on yours now cheese?

After stupidly buying some 4 Motion rear calipers on the VR6OC, Ive been wondering if there is any way of fitting the 256 vented discs for these calipers? I know that it probably isnt going to be straight forward, and I'd have to get the mk4 rear stub axles on. Only thing is, the calipers bolt on to the MK4 axle beam. I was wondering if I would be able to get a MK4 rear beam and cut off the face that the stub axle bolts to, and weld it to the Corrado beam? Ive seached the web for anyone that has actually carried out this conversion with no luck! Do you think this is going to be more work than its worth? Should I sell the calipers on, and stick with the tea cup saucers?

yeah, I think Im going to try and borrow the tool. My Dad works for Audi and probably knows a friend who works for VW he can ask, I hope! Ive just made a mistake and brought some 4 motion rear calipers of a guy on the VR6OC, which are meatier and probably for vented discs :( Im not giving up though! Im going to see if theres anyway of getting them to fit before I sell them on. Ill let you know how I get on.

Well thanks guys for helping me make a decision. Im going to play it safe and fit oem, as we all know that it handles well with them, and they last long enough before you'll have to replace them again. The only thing is the pressing in! Ive been told that the polys are a doddle to fit compared to oe type? I may have to try and borrow a 3111 tool off someone.

Cheers davidwort, I think Ill replace these when I refurb my subframe. Are these the same as the R32 ones? Is there much difference in the two? I should be able to get some sort of discount on the OE bushes, but their alot more expensive the Febi, why is that, better quality rubber :?

Thanks guys, yeah I was sure the R32 was 4WD. Can you replace the whole wishbones, or do you have to press the R32/TT ones into the rado ones? So the only option is the o.e for the rear then, or do vibratechnics do a uprated version? Im gonna have a look now. Anymore info on the front wishbone bush alternative, whole wishbone or seperate bushes?

Yes there is rear bushes available for the MK2 and MK3, and Im assuming that the rado has MK3 ones? They have a fairly hefty price tag though, and I cant seem to find a pic yet. http://www.stealthracing.co.uk/show.php?mid=45

Thanks guys, yeah I was sure the R32 was 4WD. Can you replace the whole wishbones, or do you have to press the R32/TT ones into the rado ones? So the only option is the o.e for the rear then, or do vibratechnics do a uprated version? Im gonna have a look now.

Im going to be carrying out a total rebuild on my rear beam as soon as it gets a tad warmer. Im collecting up the bits at the mo, Im also uprating the rear brakes with Mk4 rear calipers, braided hoses, and EBC Ultimax grooved discs with green stuff pads. I have used the search but Im still unsure of what rear axle bushes to fit. Ive read you can possibly use r32 or TT rear bushes, is this correct? Are they both the same? Ive got some cheapo Febis at home, but Ill rather fit the best, but within reasonable price etc. The other option are of course poly, and o.e. Ive heard a few pros and cons of the polys, I just need a little help as this is one job that I only want to be doing once! :)

Cheers Cheese, the car does run ok, a bit lumpy on start up, but when she warms up its acceptable. Maybe I should go for a 3bar for a better idle, a friend of mine got in the car and asked why did it feel as though it was going to stall! I know that it certainly doesnt want to stall now after the conversion, so I put it down to it being a 2.9l V6 with high light cams, alloy flywheel and uprated engine mounts. :)

After converting my rado to OBD2 management a little while ago, which I must say Im very please with! I had the car put on the rollers a couple of weeks ago and it turned out a very healthy figure of 219 bhp 200 lbsft! Its just something the guy said at SRR, that it was running rich, not loads, but enough for him to mention it. I was wondering if it may have something to do with me running a 4bar rado reg, and not a 3bar Golf one? Am I right in thinking that if I had the car mapped, it wouldnt matter what reg I was running? Calling anyone who knows more about this then I do :)

I think bigpants baby may have a couple of 2.9 engines.

Ive just picked up a rear beam off bigpants baby, Im going to totally refurbish it, as you have been. Looks like yours is coming on very nicely mate! Did the bigg red do the abs rings hub/hub carriers aswell, if so how much it all cost? Ive just found a blaster/coater in newhaven that will do the job for around £45+ vat, does that sound reasonable? The beam has already cost me a fair bit as I collected it, due to size, and ended up spending about £70 on petty, plus £30 for the beam! Keep up the good work mate! :)

I dont know mate. Is the air con loom seperate to the engine loom? If so I wouldnt think it would be much different.

Hurray!! She’s alive again at long last! I’m a little bit embarrassed about why it’s taken so long, but here it goes. First of all after blowing up the first ECU I received off bigpants baby, I didn’t realise what I had done until taking it to Vince at Stealth and giving £150 to bypass a blown ECU! Plugged it in and still no joy. I Spoke to Vince and explained, he asked me if the TB was making a buzzing noise, and come to think of it, I had actually heard it make that noise a while ago, but not recently. This was probably before I busted the thing! Anyway, after realising Id blown the ECU I had to buy another of bigpants and try that. Plugged that ECU in, and there was the buzzing noise you need to hear, great, but still no start. I gave Vince another call and he talked me through the adaption process on vag-com to sync the key/transponder to the immobilizer. That was fairly straight forward, and Vince said if everything is plugged in right there should be no reason for it not to start. But it never, and Vince was a little stumped at that point. I then decided to take out the crank sensor, check or swap with my original I had kicking about. Its then I realised my mistake. The aftermarket plastic type crank sensor I had fitted has a black male plug, my spare on the other hand has a white plug. I had plugged the front knock sensor into the white plug, going by the rear which has a white plug, and the crank sensor was plugged into where the knock sensor should! I got quite excited when I realised my mistake, as I knew it would start after swapping them round, and that it did, on the button! First drive impressions where great, definitely more low down torque and smoother power delivery! It idles better, and the main thing that wound me up more then anything was anticipating it stalling at every junction! IT DOESN’T STALL!! It might just be that I haven’t driven for some while, but it seems a lot more powerful, and relentlessly accelerates hard, I couldn’t leave it alone! Im very pleased with my efforts, and even though I made a couple of stupid mistakes I don’t regret any of it because Im over the moon, it feels like a different car! :D

Cheers mate, but I dont think it would have anything to do with the parts you sent, more something Ive done i.e wiring etc. Cheese when you talk about the crank sensor, I have replaced it with a aftermarket item, which was plastic housed. Even if the crank sensor had gone, surely you would still get the prime come on the fuel pump? I just think its a bit strange that I cant communicate with the ECU at the moment, but I have done a couple of times! Maybe its a problem with the way ive wired it it up? I really hope Im going to get to the bottom of it this weekend, as its getting to me a bit now! Ill give Vince a ring tomorrow for some advice and then its fingers crossed for Saturday.