VRTrickster
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Everything posted by VRTrickster
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Arent all the vr6 pumps 4bar, then regulated to 3 ? s**t Ive really balls up now then, I couldnt even afford that pump :mad: ! If thats the case then I could stick the 3 bar reg in I have for now, yes ?
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As cheesewire has explained on some old posts Ive searched. I got a pump for a MK3 Golf VR6 94-97 from GSF and swapped the senders over as they are completely different. I used the new pump housing and pump with pipes, but used the old sender and lid. The pump they suppied was made by " erstklassig " which I have never heard of. GSF no - 18389J VW eq - 1HO 919 051 AK
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martyjmcfly, I replaced them a little while ago with some high pressure braided items from Demon Tweeks. mattkh, the fuel pump relay I replaced last week. Cheers for the feedback guys, I really need to get to the bottom of this !
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I have checked for vac leaks as youve describe before, but may try again tomorrow. Surely what Ive done is causing a vac leak, so why does the idle drop down nicely ?
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Jim, Ive also just fitted a brand new ISV a little while ago.
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I have replaced the filter fairly recently, along with loads of sensors and stuff! Johnboy98, me to mate, really driving me mad now !
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After fitting my new pump from gsf today thinking it was going to cure all my problems Ive been having, lumpy idle and cutting out etc. http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... 979#553979 Its actually made the cutting out even worse and seemed to cut out at every junction now! It does feel smoother now though, and seems to have more poke up the rev range, which is good! After driving around getting very annoyed, I pulled over and pulled the vac hose off the fuel reg, which I have done before, then run the car. It didnt cut out once, and the idle dropped down nicely! Why is this happening ? Is it that the reg is fecked ?
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I was just wondering what the voltage should be measured at the pump whilst running at idle? I got 13.5 v
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The clutch has only done 30k. I doubt that its got enough torque now to start slipping ! I meant the engine felt like it does when spinning, no power transfer if you know what I mean ? Im going to ring Vince today and explain my running problems before I take it to him.
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I knew someone would ask me that one, lol! No because you can hear the limiter doing its thing,and I wasnt that close to redline.
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Could it be the second hand coil pack I brought a while back is faulty?
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I was just wondering about something that has happen a few times when giving my car some welly. At high revs in second suddenly there seems to be no life from the engine, either not firing due to no spark or fuel! It sort of feels a bit like the clutch slipping, but you would smell it, or the wheels spinning, but you would hear and feel it. I was just wondering if this is linking to my lumpy idle and stalling?
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VR6 still running rough ,lumpy idle and cut out etc
VRTrickster replied to VRTrickster's topic in Engine Bay
Well I may see you there kevHaywire, but I'm sure somethings not right! Do you think I should be trying to sort this problem out before I take it to Vince, or do you think it could be to do with the mods? This is really getting to me now and Ive been thinking about pushing it off beachy head !! :mad: I have changed the ECU relay, do you think that a faulty pump relay would cause lumpy idle, and the cutting out? If Vince cant map it because of this problem I may even have to pay him to diagnose it for me, and forget about the remap until its sorted ! -
VR6 still running rough ,lumpy idle and cut out etc
VRTrickster replied to VRTrickster's topic in Engine Bay
Right Im really not happy !! After forking out on a fancy head re build, which I must say is amazing, really f-ing flys now, the car still has the same running problem were it idles lumpy and cuts out regular ! I plugged it into vag com last night and it still showed the same readings of 3.90 to 4.10 for the injector on time, which ive been told is the ecu is over fuelling! Could a weak fuel pump cause these problems? How about the ecu relay ? Ive booked the car into vince on the 8th for the remap, but I thimk Ill have to call him and let him know how its running! -
I was synta silver which is the same viscosity as the Motul I'm using, so didn't see a difference really. It did lose oil, not drastically, but could have been it was in need of a head rebuild.
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I run Motul 300v 10w40, which is also a top notch oil, and pricey at around £60 - £70 quid to fill the VR up with 2 litre bottles. So as NickVR6 said " depends on budget. :)
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The throttle body coolant hoses are there to cool the throttle. It sits right above a 400 degree exhaust manifold and 90 degree water flowing through it removes some heatsoak. I always found my engine ran best with the coolant hoses connected when I had the stock manifold/throttle etc. 70 degree stat is too low. Especially in the winter. People are obsessed with small readings on the dashboard but they're not accurate anyway. A healthy VR will run perfectly on the stock cooling arrangements - if they're maintained well. I see your point with the coolant pipes kev, Ill probably hook them back up at the weekend. As for the low temp stat, Ive fitted a 180f stat and fan switch, so its only around 10 degree lower. I did want to ceramic coat my manifolds with something before I put them back on but I havent got the time or money at the mo. Ive also been thinking about sticking some conductive heat protection to the underside of the inlet mani.
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Yes Im running with a low temp stat and fan switch, with a power gasket and the tb pipe disconnected. Im sure all these things would see a decrease in temp ?
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Cheers guys! Yeah Ive got to scrap the barrel even more to pay Vince. Ive spent everybody's Christmas present money already! lol
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Can anyone tell me should you empty new hydraulic followers before fitting higher lift cams, or is that just for really high profiles ? When I got mine out the bag at the weekend they had turned over and leaked some oil. I was worried about whether or not I should fill them buy putting them in a tray of oil ? Then I read in a DIY 16v head rebuild in Golf+, and they emptied there new tappets out so not to get any artificial lift. They were fitting 270s. Ive just plonked them in as they were, should I be worried about anything?
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I don't know mate as this is the only head Ive ever had rebuilt ! This is using standard valve sizes, concentrating more on the flow. I thought Id take a different approach and send my head to a specialist, rather than your common VW tuner specialists like Grant, Race Power, Dub Shack etc. I did look into getting it done by such firms, and asked for prices, but I thought Id be different and send it to this guy as he really knows his cylinder heads and has all the top notch equipment! I feel that a quality rather than quantity and fancy cleaning may have its benefits. Only the rolling road will answer that for me! Here's what was done - 6x inlet valve vapour blast and reface 12x Guide liners fit and size to suit stem 12x seats re profile 3 angle Skim head -010" Flow ports fast road use Refine flow on inlet manifold Matched inlet valve face to seats (back angle is 30 degrees) Shaped inlet guide port protrusion to promote slight swirl Its more of a bespoke head than your run of the mill stage 1, stage 2 etc !
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Right got the head back on Monday. I managed to build it back up and get it torqued down yesterday, but couldn't finish it off due to bad whether! :x I was a bit disappointed when removing from the box that it hadn't been washed before the work, dipped etc, but its all about how the thing runs I suppose. After de-greasing and jet washing it down I built the head up with out to many problems. I asked if I had to lap the valves in and he said just the new o.e exhaust valves I had sent him, and to use Autosol. Here's some pics of the work -
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I have one fitted to mine, but I cant say Ive noticed any difference, as I fitted it the same time as my port matched inlet, tb and cams. It is a lot of money, but I would like to think its made a bit of difference, as opposed to none at all! I think the only way you could sort of test it is to plug in vag-com and see what the intake temp measures. Fit the gasket, then run the engine up to the same temp when tested and see if theres any change.
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Youve got all the electrics right ?
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Its that some of the mouldings are reused, and mine have been thrown away by the cowboy! I suppose I could let the screen company know that it needs all the seals replacing, but I dont know how far they will go ?