VRTrickster

Ive got a new distance sensor for the servo on my vr, as it keeps throwing codes on vagcom! Has anyone on here removed one before? If so, how does it detach, twist, pull etc? Any help would be great!

can anyone help?

Right Ive been meaning to do this for a while now, to swap my adjustable column for a fixed one. trouble is, it would be handy/easier if someone knew what items I needed, and their part numbers, as Im worried Im going to order the wrong parts etc? If anyone can help me out here, that would be great!

Well Ive managed to scrap the surface off now without too much trouble, but quite time consuming! Just found out that I have the wrong brake point unions, which are going to be hard to find on a sunday! Camberley Auto Factors are my only chance if Im to get the car back on the road by Monday evening!

Mine, so far, would have to be the OBD2 conversion, it doesnt even think about cutting out now! Plus the extra poke and economy is great :)

Yeah there was no chance of getting the bushes pushed in, I spent an hour and a half picking it off with a stanley knife :( You reckon I should take it off the axle face then? It does state in the Bentley manual to make sure the metal surface is clean!

Ive just picked up my lovely finished rear beam from the powder coater, which I Im over the moon with the quality of finish! Only thing is he has forgotten to mask the stub axle faces and the bearing faces! Im not to worried about the bearing faces, I think they are actually painted from factory, they'll just be harder to press the bushes in maybe? Its the axle faces I was more concerned about! Will this matter much, or should I be alright bolting them up to the powder coat finish?

Cheers guys, no Ive also looked through the etka/vag cat diagrams and they dont seem to be showing :? The best way to show you what I mean is to take some pictures of them, but I cant see how that would even help without part numbers :(

Sorry Ive just checked that number and Ive already got new ones. The clips I mean are flat c shape with a right angle lip at the top to pry them off?

Cheers dinkus, the ones Im on about that hold only one brake line I think, and are on the legs ever side, they slide clip on to the nail head thing bobs? I was after the tension spring and connecting parts also, part the online etka doesnt really show a good diagram of the rear beam!

Right Im after the little clips on the rear beam that hold the solid line in place? Also the spring clips that go between the flexis and solid lines etc, some are like bananas and there are flat ones. Im after the flat type one? If anyone could help me out with ETKA or something that would be great!

Ive got the flaring tool my dad gave me and its like the one you describe, big, heavy, and needs to go in a vice. I also found a bending tool. I picked up my brake pipe last weekend, 25 feet of it, which should be plenty! Im going to get some unions from Camberley Auto Factors before next weekend, when I intend on getting the rado back on the road! What do you use to cut the pipe with, and clean the burs?

Good to hear you liking the brakes cheese! No, Im not saying that Mk4 rear hubs have tapered bearings. I think the hubs I have are machined from rado discs, into hubs, see what I mean? I think its best I get some pictures up to show you, but I cant do that until I get back to the car next weekend, sorry :)

Yes the discs do pop on to the hub, but the hub still uses the taper style bearings. Thats why I thought they might be machined rado discs.

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Yeah I know what you mean, they are a bit OTT, but at least they are there for when I do up the power :) I got the spacer brackets and special hubs of John at JMR Racing in Littlehampton. I brought the calipers by mistake off VR6OC, and didnt want to give up making them fit! I Heard that someone had carried out the conversion, which happened to be John. He can get made up brackets for 256 or 280 vented discs. Im not sure if the the hubs are actually rear discs machined into hubs on a lathe? The disc face ends up being exactly where it normally sits, which is good! Im going to probably do a thread when I put it all back together. Ive just taken the axle off, stripped off, and dropped it of to be zinc then power coat finished.

Very good cheese! Ill have to do a thread on my 280mm vented rear conversion with 4Motion calipers. Nice work :)

I think Im going to have to fork out for a new alarm system :( Mine is a very dated concept 50, otherwise known as the come back 50! Been looking at the Toad Ai606 cat 1, which is very reasonably priced, about £230 fitted!

Cheers, my dad reckons he's got a descent flaring tool at work I can use, which is good! Is there any way of shutting off the rear brake line at any point, while I remove the axle and that? Im I right in thinking Im only going to need male unions for refurbishing the rear axle solid lines? Its 3/16 pipe with 10mm thread unions?

Well I ended up riding to work, just round the corner, and having a look. The doors opened with the fob, but no indicators. The alarm box was making some strange noises though, clicking, humming etc, which Ive never really noticed! Could it be that the alarms on its way out perhaps :scratch:

Ill give that a try, cheers!

I havnt checked actually, and I cant really check till tomorrow as its parked at work. I was wondering if there was any relays or fuses for the central locking?

Im not really sure whats going on with my central locking/total closure. I have a clifford concept 50 or 60, a fairly old one. Went to lock my car on Friday, with the alarm fob as I normally do, but only the doors locked, and the windows and sunroof stayed open! After fiddling around with it, I noticed that the immobiliser was being deactivated by the fob and was able to put the ignition on and shut everything. I can only use the passenger side door lock as I have de-locked the drivers now. Turning the key didnt activate the central locking either. A little later on the central locking started working with the fob, but I noticed the indicators were not flashing :scratch: The next morning everything was back to normal, which is quite puzzling! Today it has just started doing the same thing, so I need to get to the bottom of it! Could it be the central locking pump? Could it be the box that controls the total closure? If anyone has come across this problem, or has any ideas, Im all ears! Thanx

Ill perhaps get one of those sets and some extra pipe then.