VRTrickster

Right well, still no joy I

I was going to do the same and tape up the key and hide it. I emailed bigpants baby to ask if all the bits came from the same car, and as I thought, yes he was apparently using it before it was dismantled. I may be driving up to Stealth on Saturday the way its going!

I got a list of the net last night in pdf, very handy! The code that popped up in the immobilizer section was in fact the faulty key code! I did speak to Vince about bypassing but he charges £176 for the service, which is is about half a remap! I cant really afford it to be honest, but I may have to! I was wondering how much it costs to get a key coded at the dealers? Ive only really got saturday on the car, so fingers crossed Ill have it running!

Cheers cheese, I figured it probably did! Well its all ready to fire up now, but it doesnt want to for some reason or other! Could have something to do with the immobiliser thingy bobby bits, I wired them up to where they were on the golf, but no joy :? I had VAG COM plugged in to the two OBD ports I have now and could read the ABS fault codes, but no signal from controller when I try the engine :? When the Immobiliser is activated on the mk3s can you still code read the ECU ? Going to speak to Vince later and maybe he can help me as Im pretty stumped at the minute!

Right well, slowly does it. I Manage to finish off the loom today and get the plugs back in to the foot well ready to be plugged in! The hardest part of this conversion I think is taking out and refitting the servo, what an absolute pain in the a**e! Just a quick question really, does the OBD2 Golf use the 109 ecu relay? I ask as I got the whole fuse panel sent to me with the loom etc, and it doesnt have the relay plugged in! I dont know if its been removed or not? :? Ill get some more pics up Monday :)

You can buy these TT kits from ebay already modded for £70 odd quid! The guy who sells the kits also sells the spare blades already modded if you dont want to do it yourself :)

Cheers, well I

Right this is the stage I

Hi, Im in the middle of a obd2 conversion on my Corrado. I have both looms in front of me now, but I could really do with some wiring diagrams for the mk3. I dont know if anyone can help, I dont really want to fork out for a bentley, as Im sure that Haynes dont do one for the six cylinder mk3? Maybe theres someone near me with a Bentley, that I could copy the diagrams from ? If anyone can help, please let me know, cheers !

I also forgot to mention I will have a lot of OBD 1 parts up for grabs soon in the parts for sale!

Cheers cheesewire, very helpful and informative info! I am actually looking forward to carrying out this myself, as I know if all goes well it will give me a very big :D So from what you

Well, after messing around with my VR, as you do, it seems it

How much did the fusebox cost out of interest?

I feel for you aswell, sounds pretty similar to my problem. Which I still havnt got to the bottom of Im afraid !

Well after changing the module for a second hand updated one, it was exactly the same ! After a bit of research, I found out that the black temp sensor on the thermostat housing is for the stage 3 fan. I unplugged the connector and the fan then died. I then took it for a spin and realized that that a faulty black sensor had been causing my cutting out problem the whole time ! Im now over the moon that my problem has been resolved, and Im not too bothered that I have replaced quite a lot of parts that didnt need changing ! At least they wont be going faulty in the near future, touch wood :lol:

I got mine from Awesome http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/

All temp sensors are new except the yellow and black one on the thermostat housing. I went for another drive and it didnt cut out, with the idle dropping as it should.

Went out in the Rado today and suddenly the stage three fan came on constantly and only switchs of with the ignition! As soon as I turn the ignition on it comes back on, strange :? I unplugged the big plug on the back of the fan and it obviously stopped. Driving around with it unplugged also seemed to stop it cutting out, but Ill have to drive it a bit more to see if it has erradicated the stalling. Does anyone know what my problem is here, is the fan control unit faulty ?

Its not really the idle Im worried about, its the blasted cutting out that is really p*ssing me off :x I think it could even be fuel related as it happens while cruising at low revs. When coming off the throttle at low speeds, it pops softly out of the exhaust, then the revs fall, and it just dies ! I was wondering if it was running lean on overrun and idle ? Is Vince able to change that part of the map when he remaps ? I have changed the ISV for a new one, and also have a new MAF now, so theres not really anything else to replace! I was going to check the cam timing again this weekend and replace the trigger wheel again, as I know I couldnt seem to get it spot on last time. I know that the car was making 230 bhp on the rollers, so you would think the timing is ok, but Im getting desperate, lol! Also what does the brass allen screw adjust on the ISV ?

No worries mate! I think Ive had enough now with the cutting out that, I was considering going obd2 ! After reading Trigs posts it seems a bit to involved to carry out myself, and for the money it costs for parts and labour, I think Ill save up for a Emerald ECU ! Ive had enough :x

Critical_Mass, I think your possibly on about the black breather which attaches to the rocker cover to the intake pipe ?

The EVAP solenoid is a valve which controls the the petrol tank fumes going back into the inlet from the carbon filter canister, which sits under the air box. If I pull the vac hose of the fuel reg it doesnt seem to stall, but if I plug the hose unconnected it does. When I unplugged the solenoid whilst running hot, it didnt stall half as much, which is kind of a vac leak as it keeps the valve open rather than pulsed on idle. :?

It seems giving my car a vac leak seems to stop it cutting out. What would cause this to happen ?

I set out this weekend to sort out my on going lumpy idle, and cutting out. Before I set out to Egham to my Dads, to use his driveway services, I unplugged the EVAP solenoid valve. The car didn't cut out, but did go to a couple of times and the idle was smoother ! It also started up better this morning, with none of the revs jumping up and down. Took it for a half hour run and it didn't cut out once, and idle was smoother, sitting a smidgen higher than before. Before unplugging the valve the revs used to drop to a low idle and sort of creep up to norm idle. this was obviously if it never cut out, which it did rather a lot ! :x Any ideas ? Could it it be a dodgy valve or blocked canister ?