VRTrickster

I did this a little while back, and yes it did solve it! But I think it might be somthing else now ? Theres a lot of movement from the painted part that it bolts to!

Anything to report gaz?

No one had any problems with this ? Maybe Im the first ?

Yeah I think you can get a cheap replacement from GSF, or go main dealer!

Ive heard its not that much louder as its tucked away in the wing somewhere. It definitely lengthen the intake track ! Anyone fitted one of these ?

This strap/hinge thing has started playing up making clonk clicking noise when opening and shutting the door! There seems to be a lot of play in the part that is painted at the hole in the body ,compared to the other passenger door. Has anyone had the same problem? Can I get to the back of this by taking the plastic cover off inside the foot well and tighten something up,or replace the strap? Any help would be great !

Id really like to know if anyone rates the Carbonio induction kit? Has anyone fitted one of these and got good results? Was thinking of getting one just to be different, as so many are going for the BMC and really rate it!

Id say that the fuelling would probably need to be adjusted to the extra air coming in. Not sure of how much difference in power it would make though. Id get it done if you have the money! Can I ask where you got your remap done, and how much does it cost for a tweak after say fitting an extra mod?

Is the Valeo one a copper or alloy core? Good price!

For quality main dealer all the way on rads !! :)

Cheers guys! Ive got some rear bushes ready to go on.Ibrought them of some guy on ebay but arent sure of their origin. Do the VW ones have any VW markings on them? They do seem good quality as far as a bit of metal and rubber goes! :)

Yeah I suppose! Anyway the turbo is going to be a little while yet.Going to see if I can get a bit more naturally aspirated power out of her first! :)

Do you think Ill be ok running the 264s with say a stage 1 kit ?

After driving my car at the weekend at high speed I feel as though the car gets twitchy. I dont know what its like in other performance cars as I havent driven any and not at that speed. Could this be just part and parcel of having stiffened suspension feeling the road more, or could it be something I need to replace? Ive fitted Koni H&Rs,new wishbones,track rod ends,ball joints and top mounts and rubbers. Would worn rear axle bushes or arb bushes affect this?

Cheers kev ! Im just thinking I could maybe run a turbo kit on it at low boost without touching the engine to start with. Then maybe when I want to push the boat out a bit ,fully rebuilt and uprate the engine myself with carefully selected components, more boost or bigger turbo etc?

Can someone please give me some advice ! So does that mine I could run my VR standard with a turbo and 264s ?

Im going to be fitting one of those gaskets ,but with everything else fitted I wont be able to tell if the things made a difference! I am also looking at a 6 lb fly in the near future. What do you think about lighter drive pulley like these ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... RK:MEWA:IT Im I right in thinking you can still run 264 with a turbo as long as the CR is reduced accordingly? My bottom block and pistons are brand new with existing crank and rods with new bearing less than 30k ago! Can I run a turbo kit on low boost with spacer gasket without blowing anything up? What sort of power can I push it to but remain safe? Would I be able to run the turbo with all existing mods mentioned? Anyone ??

Ive just replaced my rad with an oe one after buying a ECP one and not liking the quality! With a club discount it cost me £152 from my local dealer ,so didn't pay for postage! The ECP one cost £132 delivered! I don't know why I bothered ,should of gone oe from the start ! Know Ive got the hassle of returning it ,but its worth it ! http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... highlight=

Right it wasn’t as hard as thought it was going to be! Ill try to explain step by step. 1: First of all yes, take the battery out. If you’ve got an alarm ,switch the siren off with the key if you have it to stop yourself blowing your ear drums off when it’s reconnected! Plus also if you have a coded stereo make sure you have that code! 2: Take the reservoir cap off and jack the passenger side front up to get to the bottom hose. Used some big swan neck grips to release the pipe spring clip and move up the pipe. Put a suitable container under to catch as much fluid as possible and wiggle the pipe off from above and drain the water. 3: Disconnect the top pipe the same way. Remove the 10mm bolts holding the rad to the slam panel using brackets that just wiggle out of the rad using some pliers to help maybe. 4: Remove headlights and grill for access. Remove the six screw bolts on the slam panel to give a bit of movement. 5: Disconnect the plug to the fan and move the cable out of the way. Undo the four screw bolts holding the fan housing to the rad. You should now with some patients pull the rad fans and housing etc out towards the battery and up. 6: Now undo the cowling on the front of the rad, two on left and on the right. You can get to the top bolt on the right but not the bottom. To get to the bottom bolt remove a 8mm bolt at the bottom of the cowling. You will now but able to lift the rad out of its locating holes and move it over to gain access to the bottom bolt. 7: That should be the last bolt holding it in, disconnect the rad switch, if you want remove it, I did it might get in the way. Now wiggle and jiggle the rad out the same way the fans came out towards the battery. When I put the new one in I protected the fins by selotaping a piece of cardboard on both sides of the rad and removed when in place. By the way I ended up sending back the rad from ECP as I wasn’t happy with the quality, and got myself a shiny new VW one ,which worked out about £25 more than the c**p one after delivery. I got the rad from my local dealer so no postage and got a 12.5club discount nice! :) Ill post some pics when I get home.

Im going to be fitting one of those gaskets ,but with everything else fitted I wont be able to tell if the things made a difference! I am also looking at a 6 lb fly in the near future. What do you think about lighter drive pulley like these ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... AMEWA%3AIT Im I right in thinking you can still run 264 with a turbo as long as the CR is reduced accordingly? My bottom block and pistons are brand new with existing crank and rods with new bearing less than 30k ago! Can I run a turbo kit on low boost with spacer gasket without blowing anything up? What sort of power can I push it to but remain safe? Would I be able to run the turbo with all existing mods mentioned? Sorry for all the questions!

Why?

Ok I get your point! The reason Im going for 264 is, doing a bit of research people found that you loose some of the idle quality. I still want to retain a smooth and powerful daily driver! People have said that the ever popular 268s are good when accompanied by a Shrick or VSR! Im not fitting one of these and thats were I feel the silly money comes in to it a bit. Im looking to get some reasonable power gains with my budget and keep some smoothness and economy! The 268s are said to come in right up the rev range were as the 264s give it a little bit lower in the mid, Im not a drag racer! I fought I would be a bit different and try the 264 inlet and exhaust with port matched manifold combi and see what the outcome is? Have you heard anything about these or are they just another gimmick,what would be the benifit? http://www.bildon.com/catalog/DetailsLi ... .375&Nav=8 Do you really think I should bit the bullet and pay more money and get a propper remap with the likes or say Stealth? Who do you recomend?

Is this for a turbo charger ,or are you using it as naturally aspirated as I hear you can ?

Ive got a port matched upper and lower inlet manifold from Micha from Germany on my bedroom floor waiting to go on. This isn't matched to the head though! I have some 264s coming from Dougherty race cams for just over £200, bargain for brand new cams! These are getting fitted along with a 2.9 re profiled TB and a CDA! Was thinking of doing this myself will it make any difference? I suppose every little helps! :) That's why when people say I dont really need a inlet heat isolation gasket unless I'm force inducted! I'm going to fit it anyway and then its there for when I turbo charge it,but also lowering the intake temps till then! As I'm on a budget and trying to prove you don't need to spend silly money to gain power I'm thinking of going to the Germans for a mapped chip!

Right after loads of hassle getting the rad from ECP I wish I never now and forked out for an oe one! :mad: The one ECP supplied is copper core and I don't really want to fit it after hearing stories of them rotting after two years or so! So the car is going to stay of the road for a little longer while I send back and get a refund , without to much trouble I hope. I will order myself a alloy VW rad which my pride and joy deserves! The rad did come out without to many probs, and yes it was tight! Here's a few pics! As you can see that the frame were the rad sits is in rather good condition, as Ive heard that some have problems with corrosion!