VRTrickster

Ive been running my setup for a little while now ,and I cant say Ive been driving softly lol! I dont do a lot of miles though. Really cant wit to get a map done, its a lot of money but its going tobe worth every penny I bet! Just out of interest how much did you remap cost ,and Im sorry what is a fat test?

I am right in thinking that youve had a remap yes ? Did you drive the car much without the map?

Well the car seems to be running rather well at the minute and idle is acceptable given that Ive fitted high lift cams and lightened flywheel etc. I'm still going to check the fuel pressure and comp test it the weekend, it will then be ready for the stealth remap YES! The car hasn't cut out the last couple of times Ive been out, when it normally would have! The custom remaps really going to tie it all together I think, and I'm hoping for a considerable increase on my standard 204 bhp 189 lb ft.

I have had those two codes also whilst it has been running bad. Ive just ended up spending another £40 quid on a cam position sensor which hasn't made much difference! :mad: I think its going to be fuel related and I hope after carrying out a pressure test I can diagnose the problem and rectify it before I run out of money!

Ive adjusted the throttle pot, but hasn't changed anything! Its not the reason why its cutting out or running rough. I'm probably going to get a fuel pump relay next week anyway as there are cheap, and then get the fuel pressure tested. Would a faulty relay cause it to cut out? On my vag com the injector on time has been showing 3.90-4.10 ,could this mean that if the fuel pressure is insufficient the ECU will increase the fuel rate like what I'm seeing?

On the TB position on vag com the throttle angle is at 12.1 degrees. I heard it can be anything up to 14 isnt that right ? May be I should crank her up a bit and try that ?

I havent checked the fuel pressure thats something I could check to rule out the pump. Does anyone know if the cam CPS can be faulty and cause problems with out showing up on vag com?

I have checked the cams after installation to check the marks and even took the gearbox out to have a proper look! When I fitted the cams I was concerned that I couldnt seem to get the cam marks to line up spot on but tried it tooth this way ,tooth that way so that had to be as good as it gets? After running it for a while it had lumpy idle and problems starting in damp which turned out to be the coil ,and idle was lumpy. After speaking to Vince several times for advice I decided to strip it again even further and take the box out. The lower chain I haven't moved and in standard form on the rollers the car was producing I healthy 203 bhp, so Id say it was timed correctly! After taking the box off I could see that the flywheel/crank mark and intermediate lined up perfect. The cam marks how ever were slightly out of parallel by a mm or two! I refitted the chain over and over and still the same result! I then tried a new chain and still the same. When putting a long screw driver down number one and feeling for top dead centre and spinning the engine over till its coming up to tdc, I gently turn it to and past ,and the cams seem to line up at the point it gets to the top and starts going down. So I would say that it is timed correctly yes! It seems fuel related, but I could be totally wrong? Can anyone shed any more light please ?

The TB is a re-profiled one which I have fitted recently.I have removed the new one and re-installed the original to see if that would solve the problem, but it never!

Yes I have been thinking maybe it just needs mapping or something? I was going to get it custom mapped at stealth ,but dont want to take it there if there is something at fault !

Right Ive sorted the starting problem which was the ISV and have fitted a brand spanker! I thought this would sort all the problems but it hasn't! :mad: Ive still got a quite lumpy idle ,slight kangarooing at low revs and the car seems lethargic when accelerating. The car also still cuts out quite a bit! Here's a list of what has been replaced or swapped so far : New Items 264 Cams Cam sender Top timing chain Port match inlet mani Inlet gaskets Injector seals Re pro TB TPS ISV BMC CDA Lambda probe Red Beru leads Spark plugs Blue temp switch 109 ECU relay Cam position sensor Parts swapped with second hand items Injectors MAF Coil pack ECU The MPG doesn't seem to be that bad at around 30-35 steady motorway or 20-25 around town. I have started to think maybe the CPS is on its way out ,I did remove it and put it back whilst I was carrying out the work. The fuel pump relay wouldnt cause a problem like this would it ? It doesn't seem to bring anything up on VAG COM ,but I haven't tried to check it whilst driving to see if it brings up anything when it cuts out. Have any of you got any ideas as Ive run out of them and am probably going to replace every sensor etc till I cure it! I was also thinking fuel pump ? HELP PLEASE !!

As BLACKG60, said check for intake/vac leaks. You could also take the ISV off and clean it with carb cleaner, then spray a little WD40 down it as it may seize up like mine because I never! It cost me £130 for a new on, but my dad works for Audi. I think he said its around £200!

Got a new ISV off my dad discounted as he works for Audi for £130 inc. I think he said it was around £200 retail! So I got a bargain, and it cured the problem so Im well chuffed!

The gap it was stuck at was about 4mm approx open. Once I got it moving freely but only 4mm to closed position! Is this as far as its meant to open?

I think Ive found the problem! After taking the ISV off again to give it another clean I noticed it is actually seized almost shut or open? You can get a screw driver in the top but it doesn't budge at all. Hopefully this is the cause of the problem and then I can start enjoying my new mods and stop complaining about the running! But theres always something else to move onto eh ! :) EDIT: How much is it supposed to open?

Right my rado struggles to stay running when you start it from cold. You have to keep the revs up to keep it running otherwise it just stalls! After its been running a minute or two ,stalling a couple of times it idles but lumpy! Seems to pull fine and has had lots of parts already replaced : (SECOND HAND) COIL PACK MAF ECU INJECTORS (NEW PARTS) OE LEADS PLUGS BLUE TEMP SWITCH CAM POSITION SENDER THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR FUEL FILTER Once the car is running and idling it may cut out occasionally at a junction but the idle seems to drop fairly well. Ive checked that the relays are clicking. They click twice before the key is turned fully with a final click. Ive checked it for air leaks using brake cleaner around the intake/ pipes etc. I have had it on VAG-COM recently when it had this problem and it didn't show anything. I haven't had it on there lately but I will in the next week or so. I have thought maybe fuel pump ,but it doesn't seem to make that much noise ,but I can here it. Would the big yellow temp switch have anything to do with the cold start or running? My dad has ordered a new black and yellow sensor for me anyway! Any advice would be much appreciated as I haven't got much hair left! :mad:

Right the Fidanza flywheel has arrived ! So watch this space :)

Im using Motul Gear 300 and can say that the gear change has improved ,less notchy etc.

The car is still in bits a the mo! Im waiting for the flywheel from america. Ive checked the lower timing marks and they are spot on ,so I didnt really need to strip it as much as I did. With the timing as it was ,it wouldnt be causing the fuelling issues! Im just waiting for my Fidanza flywheel to show up and then I can build her back up. Ive fitted the spare set of injectors I had so build it back up and give it I try! If the problem persists ,Ill run her up and compression test it.I know I should of done this before hand but I didnt have the tool to hand and I really wanted to get to the bottom of it!

I was just wondering what would be the symptoms of burnt exhaust valves? Would I have smoke coming from the exhaust? Noises? Over or under fuelling? Cheers for any info!

Yes me to! They are the FKs but I here the In Pros are a bit darker .

Have you noticed any change in the ride qaulity at all? Im also thinking of going down the the 16s route and lowering it more, and I have the same suspension setup as you.

So far Ive replaced : S/H ECU S/H COIL PACK S/H MAF INGNITION LEADS PLUGS LAMBDA BLUE TEMP SWITCH SWAPPED FPR

Hi Im going to carry out a compression test after my Fidanza flywheel turns up and build here back up. Im going to fit the spare set of injectors I have and if the compressions alright Ill complete building it up and see if its cured it! Spoken to Vince and a guy at Dub Shack and they both say that the timing being out that little would not cause the over fuelling problem! So Ill have to wait till next weekend till I can try and get to the bottom of it. :? Ill let you know how I get on!

Thats what Im going to do with mine after Ive had another fiddle with it at the weekend!