Toad

I think my 16V owes me around £5-6 maybe 7k including purchase from 3 years of driving and minimal mods, and the VR will owe me £2500-3000 by the time the engine is rebuilt, the suspension replaced and I've bought a tin of paint. I'll be a bit annoyed if the VR costs me much in repairs in a years time.

You will need... G60 engine, charger and ancilliaries, G60 Gearbox (Ratios in the 16v box aren't ideal with the G60), Engine wiring loom, ECU, Radiator, Pipework, Coil, Intercooler + Pipework, Instrument panel (rev counter is wrong), Exhaust, possibly fuel pump. Probably all in all, a very expensive conversion. look up Flusted's members gallery, as he converted his valver to G60. I think you could probably do a 20vt for similar money to a g60 conversion these days, or 16v turbo/16v G60.

Good points. I think intrinsically the corrado is a pretty good car, they have generally been driven hard, as it's the nature of a sports coupe, and they are old, the problem a lot of people have is that the components are all reaching the end of thier lives around the same point, but compare them to other cars and you'll see how well they've done up till now.

R32 has rear wishbones I believe so doesn't have this type of bush. I think the R32/TT bushes are for the front wishbones only.

Dunno Never asked. The valve thing was my last £25 at that point :)

I just shoved mine on, think it was a snug enough fit I wasn't too worried. Chuck insulation tape round it if you're worried, but I don't think mine has escaped since. Did find that my S shaped pipe to the inlet trunking was split when I changed the pcv thing, so it'd be worth inspecting yours closely. Mine recieved a generous portion of insulation tape at that stage... :lol:

I shoved a small screwdriver into the crimped bit and opened it out enough to un hook the end from the hooky things. Which might make sense, or might not. Nah, any old jubilee will do, as log as it's the right diameter. Too big and it'll go triangularish and not work well.

Where in southampton are you? I have VAG COM. And live in Winchester. (Please say somewhere nearby.....)

Congrats Mr Riot!. I'd not looked at this thread before now.... Done the maths on how long you will need to work before you can buy a rado again then??? :) Just to add, I worked as a temp in HR for a coupe of months and was taught a lot about job applications and interview skills. The main thing is to read the person spec, or role profile carefully, pick out the essential and desirable criteria for the role and reference them in your application, then think of situations where you have used or learnt these skills and refer to these in your interview. It really is that simple to pass the selection process. You will need to show more aptitude than your opponents and need to get on with the managers, but you'll not get anywhere if you don't score well beforehand.

Glad she's running again. I didn't think she sounded too bad when I saw it tbh. As far as idling goes, mine used to be really smooth but always had a slight misfire, not it's a fair bit more lumpy. I can't hear it misfire, but I can feel it through the car. I think it's down to the coil pack having a couple of small cracks, me being heavy handed with the plug leads, maybe new plugs needed, injectors that have covered 140k, bit of stodgy oil contamination in the inlet manifold etc. It irritates me too, but I'm living with it for the time being, when I change or clean all of the above I'll expect it to be a lot better, but know it won't be perfect. At the end of the day idle isn't an issue, if it was farting when I put my foot down, then I'd be upset.

I've not managed to remove the crimp thing without destroying it. I believe a jubilee will be fine, but get the right size or it'll not seal well. TBH they're a pretty good seal just push fitted.

It would be a good little project for someone. There's not a lot left to be done to get a decent reliable little car by the sounds of things. Engine rebuild is a good bonus. I'd work on finding the runing issue as that will hamper the chances of selling it to a non-enthusiast.

Hehehe. Sorry Jim, but that's tickled me, after all the jokes about you buying a jack, then ending up with a munchkin spec model.... Lol. Did you fit the rad surround? I literally finished the one for mine Thursday night and might wack it on tomorrow. Did use satin rather than smooth paint and it looks pretty good. Ought to get off my arse and do the rear suspension top mounts and get the 16v MOTed but not feeling the motivation at the moment. The shed where I was working on the cars will be full of cattle tomorrow which never helps. Here's my newly painted surround with the fan and cowling fitted. Badly blurry picture though.

That is a good point to be fair. It might not necessarily be fuse 16 though, it seems to move around a bit depending on the age of the car.

ill take it, always good to have spares, and this seems to be a bit of a common problem with VRs from what ive read. While im at it, i dont suppose you have bits to do an OBDII conversion?? im thinking of giving the Toad a little project to do to earn some pocket money in the new year :D It would be helpful if you could pick up the transponder for me toad (and any other bits, while you are there) ill pay you for your time.... Sounds like a good practice run for mine! Lol. It's far from definite that I'm going down there, but I'll ring you if I am.

I might be in Trowbridge at the weekend too.... Let me know Mr Stone...

No worries. You might need to take both the drivers side trays off, but it's no real hassle. You'll need a couple of cable ties to replace the old ones you cut off.

Take the steering column plastic off and it's a plastic ring around the ignition barrel with a wire that follows the main loom under the dash. The wire connects to a block which is fixed to the front of the dash, it's just the other side of the plastic to your knee pretty much. You'll soon find it. there's a little clip on the wire. New transponder is about £35 from the dealer. This is what was showing up the engine start blocked by immobiliser fault when we scanned her before. Try removing the connector and spraying with wd40 before replacing it, might help in the short term.

It's probably not that then! lol.

Yup! Think 1 wing took as long as the entire front of the car when i did it.

Have you got a heat gun? Have you got a sharp knife? Have you got plenty of patience? Remove the inner arch liners and the 2 or 3 bolts inside the wing. At least one will be coated in underseal so look out for any small lumps and dig under the the underseal. there's a row of bolts on the top of the wing, and one under the plastic cover on the door pillar. the front of the wing should be loose. The rear is coated in underseal and is also glued on. You can't peel the wing off as it will bend. Best bet is to get the heat gun and start melting the glue/underseal. Try to get the knife beween the inner wing and the wing and help cut the glue away whilst pulling on the wing. might need mrsbeige to help as it's a bit of a three handed task.

If the compression ratio ends up too high you will damage the engine most likely, probably by melting pistons or bending conrods. Dunno quite how high you can push it tbh...

Pull the grill out and unplug the pair of them. No horn is an MOT failure though. Just remembered that I need to drop you a PM anyway. Tom

Why ever not? :? Because it's full of deviants?? I wouldn't take it personally. Gilrs don't want to associate with me all the time :( lol...

What temperatures are you reading on VAG COM? My guess is that your blue temp sender is on it's way out.