Toad

Hmmm. That's a bummer. Have you tried doing it up a bit? just to try to break the rust... If not, oxy-acetylene sounds like the way forward. Imagine it'll be awkward to do though as it's a bit tight and you'll be lying under it... In the meantime, get a decent punch or drift and a hammer and give the nut a few wacks, bearing in mind the manifold is brittle, but the shock could help free it up. Try Wurth Rost Off freezing spray too....

Try to borrow a a ratchet with a long handle to get more purchase, but make sure it's got lots of teethso it rachets on a small angle. Use 6 sided sockets too, and put wd on it... Is it one on the back or the front of the joint? The ones on the front can be accessed from below by taking the driveshaft off the box, and the driveshaft heatshield.

I tend to fill mine as Kev says, run her up with the cap off till it's pretty warm, reving it slightly and occasionally (using the throttle butterfly so you can keep an eye on things) can help to encourage some air out, then put the cap on, let it get up to temp so the fan comes on a couple of times and check for leaks. When the system is running right, the top rad hose will get warm and the pipe leading to the expansion tank will also warm upm you'll see bubbles appearing out of this one. the pipes running to the matrix will get warm quickly too, usually oen before the other but I don't remember in which order, the pipes to the throttle body will also get hot. I've still got my cap off at this point, eventually the bottom hose will warm up as the thermostat opens. remember that this opens slowly, and as the cool water from the rad flows past it, it will close again.

All sounds a bit complicated and troublesome... I'll take it off your hands for a pound... :lol: Nice find mate. Good luck with it.

That's a good website Steve.... Think I might be doing a bit of shopping as the 16v needs some new bits before the MOT.

Yep I swapped speakers from early to late pods... They are the same. but there is a link on the canadian corrado club website for making late pods take bigger speakers. Don't think they will fit to early door cards though.

If you pull the glove box out you can tease the cables out so it should slide in... I can't get my glovebox out so I had to remove the tray underneath, still didn't get it right in though. Nevermind, main thing is that there is a stereo in it now.

Er, did you say US-Spec G60? I just need to make sure ;) A what?? Hope you have fun with her! How long has it been now?

Go round his house and take a dump on his windscreen. Solution to everything that...

Bloody hell... Looks like some lunatic owned the car at one point.. bet it wasn't cheap to have airbrushed. Got to say, I like the pattern on the front though...

Lol... Take a look here...

Cheeswire I stand corrected, I was mistaken on the wheel width. Tyre choice doen't matter now, as I can't afford any tyres. :( I've been laughed at by a tyre monkey for loving my rainsports, and was told that Uniroyal are equvalent to tesco value.

I thought the speedlines were a 6 inch rim, the same as the sebrings etc, which have 195s on. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to be argumentative, nor am I looking for some sort of poor mans stretched look, but I thought they'd fit fine...

The plastic crack pipe that runs accross the front of the engine is pretty shite. Gruven Parts do an alloy one for £40... Might be worth considering while you're fiddling about down there.

Had a thought over the weekend. There are two fan controller units for the corrado, and early unit with one 50amp fuse and a late unit with the 50amp fuse and a 5amp and 20amp.

I didn't want to confuse him ;) Still it's only a 5mm difference in sidewall, not hugely significant, about the same difference as having new tyres and having worn out tyres.

I went for silver, of the hammerite variety.. Really like them. Don't have a picture though as the forum photo thing is broken.

That is a monsterous kebab... Yum yum. I read a write up on how to plastic weld a while back in the farmers weekly, wasn't a million miles away from how you're doing it. Think they used a heat gun with a pointy end to direct the hot air into a small point... might be worth looking for a back issue?

Finally getting there with the vr... had various problems, but could be looking up... Fixed all the cooling problems, including replacing a pipe. Fitted a stereo, which caused a few other issues... When I put the ipod adapter in the glovebox, I left the light wires dangling around. unfortunately they ended up touching and shorted out. This caused a fuse to blow and the car wouldn't run... Got to say thanks to Dinkus, Supercharged and Therapor for sitting with me on messenger until the light came on above my head. Going to fit a new mk2 diesel gearbox mount tommorrow whcih will hopefully sort the gearshift out a bit, and it ought to be good for a few more miles...

Where the red dot is. As for angle. Imagine you are drilling straight through the middle of the lock. you only need to go 5 mm or so, just through the aluminium. you should then see the lock barrel and the thin strip of spring steel clipping it in place. I'll try to find a lock later to show you.

:shock: :cry: :scratch: Now I am worried, must get a padlock for my tent ;) I'm not camping anywhere near you... well... till e37.89356 And hopefully you'll have forgotten all this silly padlock business ;)

Didn't see that thread, but how many people on here feel confident cutting open the controller (to remove the silcon bonded lid) and soldering diodes? That's why I said it wasn't DIYable. Maybe I should have worded it slightly differently. If it's not working, then there's nothing to lose by opening it up (carefully) and having a crack with the soldering iron really. It's a large component so even fat fingered people (like me) can sort it out. The only problem is wchich way round they fit, but I'll reopen mine and get some pics not I know it works.. as for the sealant, it's just a miniscule scrape of silicon round the edge. The awkward part is unclipping 3 edges at once to slide the lid off.

Hmmm... I would have thought that 205s and 195s would have been fine as the corrado was supplied new on them (the valver being on 185s in some cases) the actual width of the 195 rainsports is over 205mm anyway. Not significant no. the 50 bit is the sidewall height.

I'm putting 195s on my vr when I get new tyres, there's about a £20/tyre difference on rainsports for the extra 10mm

Sorry Kev, but I disagree. The controller unit is diyable, as I've done it... A common fault appears to be when the diodes on the switched ignition circuit become unsoldered from the pcb and rattle about, stopping the pump from running. You can open up the box and resolder them. I did a thread on this a while back. As far as the 10 minute afterrun. Some VR6s do after run for 10 minutes, some only after run while the fan is going. Think the later units only run with the fan. My pump makes a hell of a racket, and is noisier inside the car than under the bonnet strangely... I'm going to wait for it to pack up completely before replacing it. These also can be DIYed, if you know what you are doing. Edit, Herisites. There's amanual waterpump driven by the belts, and an electric unit next to your coilpack. one of the hoses from the matrix is plumbed to it. If it has failed it could contribute to your matrix going, but I'd expect to see higher temperatures leading to greater pressure leading to matrix going pop. I assume that you haven't... A lot of these components are just reaching the end of their servicable lives.