Toad

Cheers.... I think you'd need a touch of arch rolling to fit them to a corrado.... One BIG turbo, it was 350hp and a lot of torque... Is that Australian slang for something? Dan Nope he just fell asleep in the middle of typing again.. Actually it's a little known fact that Australians can't use the letter 'n', hence 'praak' Australians are actually called Australias in their native tounge... The Aboriginals have the copyright to the letter and won't let the Australias use it. The rest of the world only adds it to the word Australian to show our superiority in having complete alphabets...... :wink:

Here's another of me from a few years ago in Australia, with the tractor I used to drive. I also had a special haircut, for a month as part of a praak.....

Funnily enough, I've just re tightened my rear bearings this morning. First the handbrake seized on, and got rather warm, so whilst I was fighting with that I took the opportunity to take a little little bit of play out of them. The bearings didn't take too long at all.

You should re tighten new rear wheel bearings after a while as they bed in a little.

I'm only jealous... I'd love a T350...

Ol' Nicky SmellyPants is a bit of a weasel really, isn't he.... I read in Evo that the workers were promised pay for December and any holiday owed to them, which never turned up... I hope his car breaks down in Blackpool sometime so he can find out what is really thought of him.... Well I've heard that he drives a TVR, so it'll probably break down everywhere.... :-P It's a damn shame all round.

To do the rear bearings, take the wheel off, remove the centre cap, (hammer and chisel/old screw driver, being careful not to knacker it), then take the split pin out, pull the locking thing off and then tighten the nut slowly, until you can just move the washer underneath with a screwdriver. Spin the disk a few times, check tightness, replace locking thing, insert new split pin and cover and off you go.... TBH Your bearings might be knackered, so it would be worth checking them and probably repacking them with grease...

Your welcome to come do mine instead :lol: When're you thinking of doing them? Fronts aren't as bad as rears... Give me a shout and I'll bumble down, your garage isn't bad to work in... scarlet_vr6 I'd get a compression test done before having them attack your head gasket. I wouldn't go on what the plugs look like to tell me that the head gasket has gone...

I'd check the head gasket price with stealth, though it does sound about right... How come you need it replacing? Is it pressurising the cooling system? Where is this water leaking into? You might want to consider timing chains/clutch at the same time, more expense now, but a massive saving in the future.... There's a post about it in the engine bay section. I was thinking about your brakes when I was driving along the other day, I think the weird wear pattern is down to the caliper sticking a bit, I thought about offering to do them, as i was quite interested to find out why the outside of the disk wasn't getting worn, but I haven't got anywhere nice to work at the moment, and knowing my luck it'll be a bastard of a job.

Really sorry to hear this mate. What a $hitter....

...and if you look on page 3 of this very thread, I've confirmed that the above are what halfords sell as the brilliance bulbs! So basically then the 80% ones are noticeably better than the Halfords super brilliance bulbs.. And the Halfords Super brilliance ones are noticeably better than standard items....

Mine did this. The wafty 15 year old fuse box was not supplying enough current to my stereo, the voltage would be around 10.5v so the stereo would cut out randomly at night and when turned up to slightly louder than a shrews fart. Run the main power cable to it direct from the battery, and I think you can switch it from the fag lighter feed.

:shock: Easy tiger, i think that's a bit personal... :lol: :wink:

Check your door. It's quite common for people to break into houses to nick the keys these days...

You can't polish a turd....

What a heap of utter shite, that vehicle is exactly what the SVA is designed to protect us all from. That bloke needs to be kept away from cars and tools....

Slightly off of 87 Jetta 16v's topic, but would 2E pistons and a deisel crank in a 9a block work well for a higher comp N/A engine? What sort of power would you be likely to see? Cheers.

it's under the gear lever gaitor, on the left hand side of the shaft the gear stick movess back and forth on.

From what I understand, the EBCs are the new pagid fast roads. EBC and Pagid are owned by the same company, who decided to stop selling competing products, and used the superior pagid compound, for the EBC green stuffs. I think, anyway.

It's not a traditional sort of group buy, as has just been mentioned, click on the link and you can buy them for £75 ish I believe, they take a week to turn up... And dealer prices are over £100 for them now.

Group buy for lupo wipers

Wait near the car and when you see who does it, climb up on their bonnet and take a dump on their windscreen. Preferably with them inside the car. They probably won't park near you again.

http://url.the-corrado.net/6d2d9c Jon, copy and paste that ^ in... edit: Bugger. :oops: edit: yay! 8)

Look on the south coast meet thread on page 19 is a set of pictures, most have lupo wipers. Mine (H54 UGC) are from the group buy and you should see which way round clearly on there.

If you have bought Passat 288mm brakes, then your existing hoses will fit, if you have bought golf 288mm brakes you will need a conversion hose kit, which I believe Tekara has one of to sell. I just bought a set of 280mm brakes, including calipers, carriers, all bolts and used disks/pads from him for £80, a price which I was quite happy with, I think that is about the going rate.