Toad

Glad she's running again, it's times like these that keep you going when 'Karmann's law' drops by and leaves you completely stumped about what's wrong with the bloody car.

You know, that's exactly what I was thinking.

hmmmmmm.... how hot exactly did the temp gauge get? If the engine really is up to temp, and the bottom hose isn't warm, then the water isn't getting around the rad, which indicates that the stat is closed... but it works if it opened before.... Wonder if the water pump could be rooted? When I do mine I fill it from the top hose at the rad end, and fill the rad, then chuck some in the header tank. I've just thought... check that the little hose from the top of the radiatior to the header tank isn't blocked... the little fitting on the radiator was once before. try sticking a bit of wire in it to check it's ok, you could also leave it off at the radiator and fill the header tank up until the water comes out the little fitting to make sure the radiator has no air in it.

No worries.

Have you tested that the thermostat works? Might be worth wacking it in a pan of water on the stove and checking that it opens fully. Do you get hot air from your heater now? you could have an airlock up there.

Could it be the live feed for your supercharger clutch?

That is wwwwrrrrrrrrrrooooonng!! They look strangely like mk 2 polos.

try clicking here Edit: The original link didn't work, this one does....

How bad is the damage? Might have a red rolling shell if you need bits.....

Dude... what happened, were you driving it at the time? You ok?

Probably the same as the 8v Gti?

:D

There's a problem with the recent items displayed in the forum list, they're all from last night, and some don't have titles. I thought doubles had been at a bit too much of the green this morning when I first looked at this post. Perhaps not then.... Edit: I just got that very same error as you, Mr Wales.

Occasionally KStar turns up for sale, I've seen a couple of set ups on here over the last year. I know Flusted had a set up for sale, I think he sold it though....

I only got 1 though.... :cry:

1. Why does the boost drop with a polished/ported head? Boost is a measure of pressure in the inlet manifold, this pressure is the result of the extra air provided by the super charger not being 'taken away' by the engine and so it builds up. With a ported head, the air flows better into the cylinders, so a greater volume is taken by each piston stroke, therefore not as much air builds up in the inlet manifold. So although the 'Boost' is lower, more air is getting into the cylinder, which is what you want. An analogy for this is a Dam in a river, where the dam is the cylinder head. There is a certain volume of water being supplied from upstream but only a small volume can pass the dam, therefore the river level rises, if the dam is opened up a little, like the porting and polishing on a cylinder head, more water can pass through, and so the river level drops.

This could interest you Shrick Manifold group buy

Mine was really sticky and unpleasant, and I did it on the manifold with petrol and paper towel, little bit awkward, but do able if you don't fancy taking the TB off.

I expect he'll be along soon, but I'm pretty sure G60-R required a charger rebuild quite quickly. Off the top of my head.... I don't think it increases the maximum power that much, but it does increase boost lower down the rev range.

It probably had a bit of moisture in the exhaust if it's not been driven much in the last couple of months. Get it warmed right up, and see if it clears.

I average 29.1MPG (according to the MFA, I know I need to calculate it properly but i can never remember to zero the mileometer) I had a play last night and got it up to 37MPG, but that was when the car was warm, and took loooooaaaads of concentration and driving like a granny. It did average about 38MPG when cruising at 60mph in 5th.

I'm not sure they're my bag really..... I didn't think angel eyes were very good on the dipped beam setting?

I've had a thought tonight. If you were to cut the wire from the relay to the original loom connector, and attach it to the new wiring loom, on the other side of the relay, then the dim dips should work, I believe...

What connection do you have from the existing loom to the side lights? does it run through a relay, or is it hard wired from one to the other? I plan to run wires from the sidelights to the existing loom when I attach mine, for the simplest way out.

It will stop the engine from firing. It's better to remove the power supply to the coil rather than unplugging the HT leads, simply unplugging the HT leads can damage the coil. Turning it over a few times ought to get the oil pumped round and stop the seals drying out, and would be worth doing before starting it after a period of not running.