Toad

I think anyone with a pillar drill and a tig welder could do it mate, not entirely sure I'd want to try it whoever did it.

Yeh noticed that afterwards mate, shall contribute in that thread. I just hope it does take off cos I'm definitely wanting to go! :D I'm definitely going across Europe this summer, if that trip works out or not, I have spoken to a few non corrado drivers who're pretty keen too.

The cooling pipe is on the return side, and unpressurised so it's easier to cater for.

48, Usual suspects. When they rob the "taxi service" 50 Dog soldiers?

Well, you don't actually need to remove it according to a few people that have done the job recently, but if the brake lines running to it are seized and the threads get damamged then you might need to replace it. Basically you need to saw through the unit behind the bolt heads, or drill the bolt heads out so you can slide the brake pressure regulator off the bolts, then remove the bolts with a set of irwin bolt grippers or mole grips. See if you can see a way around removing the regulator if you're short of time...

The do some I think, but use manufacturers figures for others as they can't test all of them. I'd have expected the RS to be a bit quicker than the type R, the Vtec engine wouldn't have been ideal for standing starts. Is the TT225 a quattro or not?

Yeah, quite. I'd not be 100% about running them with welded up holes.

Actually, thinking about it, it probably wouldn't make you run too rich, as the manifold pressure won't get above atmospheric, so the fuel pressure wouldn't rise too much. But, that defeats the purpose of these. Basically. I don't get the impression that this will be any good.

i'm looking into getting a specialist firm, like Hyflex or Pirtec to make me up a hose. Might be worth speaking to someone like that.

There are a few of us planning a bit of a trip already, see this thread

Which temp sender? Outside air temp? Or blue temp sender? They should all be the standard plastic clips using sprung wire to hold the female onto the male. Pull the clip off if it's being awkward they're easy to put back on once the connector is apart.

I wouldn't imagine it would do any good. You'd just suddenly run rich. I'd look at a proper remap, rather than the ebay chips, I've heard that some of the maps aren't that great... The 2l cars won't be able to use it, they operate the KE Jet system, which requires the fuel pressure to be set at 3 bar in the metering head. I know some of the VRT and supercharged VRs use RRFPRs.

All the fuses are ok? Edit. Sorry. Didn't read it properly, playing poker and chatting to a girl at the same time as this. Have you checked all the fuses? It's not uncommon for them not to use the fuse marked on the cover.

That's the trouble, I know how (trying to find a better word than fussy, but struggling. I don't mean it as a slight btw) fussy you are about your cars. You will end up doing all the same work and spending all the same money on the VR that you have on the valver. Ideally I guess you'd like to look at doing a Dom and doing chains tensioner clutch, all front bushings etc. That was a fairly expensive adventure, and that didn't include labour (paid off with cuddles etc). But you always have talked about a VR, and I guess that is what you need to at least experience. The noise can empathise with, but my VR (admittedly it's not a brilliant example of a corrado) never felt that good to drive. Nice as an easy cruiser and plenty of power, but nowhere near as sharp or fun as the valver. Dunno, I don't think any fairly standard corrado is any cheaper than another one for running costs, and in real terms, over the course of a year, I don't reckon there will be much difference in terms of fuel costs. Not trying to dissagree with you on purpose. :) Anyway, what I say is irrelevant, get a VR bought...

I just had to google FSE regulators. All I found were rising rate fuel pressure regulators, which I thought were actually of use for forced induction. I can't understand why you'd want want on a naturally aspirated car? The ecu and map expect the fuel pressure and hence volume of fuel injected to be set by the fuel pressure regulator(Which actually adjusts the absolute fuel pressure, so that it is always relative to the manifold pressure). So a rising rate unit would bugger this right up.

I was bored, and found this thread on E38, about a new VAG race series in 2009, using pre 2002 cars, and encouraging deisels. Might be interesting. And give a bigger choice of vehicle than the GTI cup thing. Shall I start looking for a 1l polo breadvan in beige?

You got anything in particular in mind Jim? Colour? Interior? Or see what turns up. If you want a hand to do chains and tensioners etc, give me a shout...

If it's a 2l 16v you shouldn't go playing around with the mixture screw unless you really know what you're doing. Are there vaccum leaks? Are all the temp sensors connected? How about the warm up regulator? Try as Jim suggests unplugging the cold start injector.

Well have a fiddle with it, and have a bit of a search on here. I could well be wrong with my guess. :)

:) I'd be tempted to say that the coolant temp sensor isn't quite right then. I don't know which sensor is which on the KR though. What does your oil temp tend to say out of interest?

Multiple cars are they way forward. :)

And the guage tends to stay around 70 degrees when you're pootling around?

When the thermostat opens, the bottom rad hose will start to warm. Assuming you're having no issues with the cooling, other than the fan coming on early, you can assume that the thermostat is probably working correctly. Just run it up to temperature whilst and feel the bottom rad hose from time to time. Be carefull nothing can get caught in the fan if it unexpectedly starts. Just see what the temp gauge says when it does get warm. When does the first speed start by the way? And what engine do you have?

Keep the valver, you'll only be disappointed by a VR. :)

Nope. It's on the gauge. The MFA shows you the oil temperature. What I'm trying to say is that the actual temperature fo the coolant, and the temperature you are shown on the gauge might not actually be the same. My VR for example would show anywhere between 85 and 105 on the gauge when the coolant was actually 90 degrees. It could be a knackered switch, but it would be worth checking that the rest of the system operates as normal, i.e, thermostat opening at 80ish degrees.