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Everything posted by Jim Bowen
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must be the same lever then, gets gunked up and the spring won't push it up.
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i used the EZ bleed and it worked perfect :lol:
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looking back i think i got £32 discount, i can't remember what they did then, but i've been back many times since and now seem to get the 10% off I hate to think how much i've spent since that bill :gag:
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Rattle cans & 'touch-up' pens still available from Stealers!
Jim Bowen replied to Jay2's topic in Suppliers Forum
i asked about spray cans and they said they didn't do one :mad2: i got the touch up pens, but thats like using body coloured porridge. i ended up buying spray cans from different places online and seeing who got the best match -
i'm going to take both locks and both handles out and strip them down, clean them up etc and fit the door handle repair kits (just while i'm there)
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here's what i've discovered the little arm on the lock/latch part wasn't returning up, once i'd locked car it was stuck down. i think this is whats causing my problem, as i can pull that up and door opens with the handle, i've sprayed it with wd40 and it is now springy again, but i've yet to test the locking again as its still hanging out of door. you can get to this lever with the door stuck shut and the door card on, you just need to get a metal rod with a hooked end, to reach in and pull lever up hard to see but the lever is under the white thing
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Swapping from Koni/H&R set-up to KWV1 coils - parts needed?
Jim Bowen replied to dukest's topic in Drivetrain
just get the rubber bits for the rear top mounts. i bought the whole lot, metal parts too, but didn't need to replace anything about from the two rubber bits each side -
Swapping from Koni/H&R set-up to KWV1 coils - parts needed?
Jim Bowen replied to dukest's topic in Drivetrain
yes they are part of the front top mounts, you get the rubber donuts and the bearing that goes in there -
i think you need to dip the brush in the paint a bit deeper :norty:
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i found a little piece of metal lying in the rear footwell of car, it looks like a bit of car, i don't reckonise it from anyway else and i clean the car often. thing is the doorcard etc is all still on the door, so not sure it could of found its way out of door and onto the floor :lol: going out there now to strip door down and see whats what. there's quite a techinical bit in the bentley maunal about setting up handles etc and the levelling adjuster thingymebob, but it doesn't make sense to me yet
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i've bloody done it!!! chuffed :D i used the same bit of metal rod that i used to undo bonnet when the cable broke, guided it between window and door, found the latch to hook onto and managed to pull it up whilst the key was in the lock daren't shut it now, but am getting expert on finding ways in to corrados :lol:
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i can't get to the screws on the front or rear edge of the card :( i've unearthed the pump in the boot, and that seems to suck and blow ok.......also if i blow or suck down the line i feel a vacuum so it doesn't seem like theres a leak. i guess its something in the door i can't open or get to........pretty stumped now as i don't wanna ruin my lovely leather doorcards.
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i took the cap off the brake fluid reseviour, put cling film over the hole and then put cap back on. thats stops most of the fluid coming out, but you will always get a little
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bugger its still the same this morning, can't get door open. i'm just going to start in the boot and take the interior out. Got a few other bits i want to do so will just take the whole lot out and see what happens.
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its not like the vauxhall engine codes :confused4: so i don't know what they mean, if anything
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http://www.sun-diagnostics.com/intl/en/ ... ll_vw.html
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got any pics of the different types of rear seats? only as i'm confused (and interested)
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erm.. your engine is a bit.......different :lol:
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a pic for spot the difference, i have a gruvenparts T-piece i bought by mistake, but thing that goes in totally different place.. Is it safe to cut samcos?
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going to put it on my list for the next trip to vw (once i've got the door open) :lol:
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theres loads in the manual setting up the door handles etc, and testing the 12 pin connector, but not much about failing to unlock when i try to unlock i can hear the pump, quite loudly and it makes a groan. I daren't lock it now, so just got passenger door unlocked and boot unlocked, just the drivers down won't open. if i blow down the pipe in the boot should that open it? Searched the forum quite a lot about it, but nowhere mentions deadlocks? i presume thats why i can't pull the pin up
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well they must of gone up, i'm 99.9% sure they were less than £600, unless we are talking about different things, pic of mine below. Also i fitted them myself and still got to get the camber etc setup (probably by stealth) i've get the receipt out tomorrow
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Door handle repair kit..........THEY ARE NOW AVAILABLE
Jim Bowen replied to daves16v's topic in Suppliers Forum
not sure if this is what i need yet, but am thinking i might fit them out of caution while i'm fixing the central locking how much for a pair? -
Starter solenoid nut = 15Nm/11ft lb Ground connection nut = 10Nm/7ft lb Mounting bolt/nut = 60Nm/44ft lb thats what it says on the back of my penguin bar :nuts:
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can you not just connect the original hose to the header tank? or is something different. iirc the hose i mean is going to the throttle body area and tee's off to the header tank